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As I read the section that makes dash cams illegal in Iowa. "Nothing can be affixed to the windscreen that impedes the vision of the driver either on driver side or passenger side". Its in section along with the rules on window tinting. Also passengers must be made aware they are being recorded if you are in fact recording. Sounds kind of flakey to me. I don't think it would impede your vision if installed properly. But then I didn't think my windows were to dark on a former car. Police sure did.
As for my own hard install, I'm subconsciously trying to work up the nerve to pull down the overhead console on probably the nicest car I've ever owned. For now I'm ok looking at the wire.. lol
If you are just connecting to a 12v power source, no need to remove the overhead console. There is power behind the plastic panel behind the mirror. Pop the little piece above the mirror uo towards the headliner, then the large piece pops down along the windshield. There you will find multiple wires to connect to.
If you are running wire down to the dash, you can just tuck it in along the head liner and the seals around the air bag covers. Very few things need to be removed to run the cabling.
Thank you. That's great. But I think most dash cams are around 5 volts which requires the step down converter that's shown in the video(s). Got to hide that somewhere. I'm guessing the mirror isn't that hungry.
Mine is 12v. I didn't realize many of them were 5 volts.
You may need to do it in your PC. Connect the memory card to a card reader connected to your PC. If using Windows, go to file/windows explorer, computer, then right click on the drive icon for the memory card and select format, then in the File System box either FAT 32 or NTFS, select Start. When done try the memory card in the camera. It will need one format or the other. FAT 32 only allows file sizes of about 2 gigs, NTFS can go much higher. Keep in mind this will erase everything on the memory card.
Received the above message last night.
As I stated, there are 2 cameras, 5 volts each as well as GPS and Wifi.
There is no transformer or reducer in the plug. The hardwire kit only has a fuse inline. Nothing to step down the voltage.
Here is the reading at the end of the plug... (the battery pack is getting low, need to recharge it)
BlackVue DR750S-2CH
It is a 2 channel so the rear camera pulls the power from the front camera.
DC 12 V - 24 V (DC Plug: (Ø3.5 x Ø1.35), MAX 1 A/12 V)
Originally Posted by Mike728
Seemed like a lot of work just to prove your point. I went to the spec sheet for that dash cam and found this:Input PowerDC 12V – 24V (DC Plug-)—C—(+) (Ø3.5 x Ø1.35), MAX 1A/12V) https://www.blackvue.com/dr750s-2ch/
I don't really understand why people keep posting and then deleting their posts. Above is another message I received last night.
As can be seen in the previous post, I had provided that info but it didn't seem to be enough information.
It's complex. The voltage is actually stepped down further inside the dashcam because the Sony Starvis sensor has an actual "working" voltage of 1.2/1.8/2.9 volts if I remember correctly.
Car batteries are typically 12 V.
Truck batteries typically 24 V.
Thus, the 12/24 V "compatibility" is only so that it can tee off power from typical cars & trucks.
Most dash cams have a 5V input jack so that they can also be conveniently powered by USB which is 5V, or conveniently powered by 5V USB battery packs.
It is an advantage to have a 5V input jack.
However, the actual working voltage inside the dashcam is lower because components like sensors & CPU's etc - have a lower working voltage.
Eg A typical Novatek CPU works at 3.3 V, while micro SD cards have an operating voltage of some 2.7-3.6 V.
Last edited by peteharvey; Feb 5, 2018 at 08:53 PM.
For now I'm ok looking at the wire.. lol
Dash Cams
I went to the spec sheet for that dash cam and found this:Input PowerDC 12V – 24V (DC Plug
-)—C—(+) (Ø3.5 x Ø1.35), MAX 1A/12V)
