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There's a bit of tweeter protrusion on the Infinitys that I installed, and TBH, the OEM speaker protrudes as well (it's more that plastic grill thing). The fit might be tight if there's more than well...whatever I had on the Infinity (1/4 of an inch?) - you can see the grill made marks on the foam surrounds of the OEM of both the corner and center.
There's a bit of tweeter protrusion on the Infinitys that I installed, and TBH, the OEM speaker protrudes as well (it's more that plastic grill thing). The fit might be tight if there's more than well...whatever I had on the Infinity (1/4 of an inch?) - you can see the grill made marks on the foam surrounds of the OEM of both the corner and center.
Did you happen to notice if there was a capacitor on the back of the dash speaker?
I am trying to figure out where the crossover is. I am wondering if it is done in the amp with separate lines to each speaker or at the connections or speakers themselves.
Also, did you notice if you could hear the highs on the 6x9's you installed? I wouldn't think they would feed a full range signal to those drivers, but you never know.
That's a good question about the dash speakers. I actually haven't had the heart to tear one apart yet. If they're there they're under under that plastic housing. However, I suspect the crossover is in the amp. I definitely hear highs in the rear door speakers, but not sure about the front.
I dug into mine a couple of days ago. There is no cap in the mid-tweet driver. All wires come directly from the amp.
There are 2 pairs of shielded wires feeding the amp from the head unit along with one white wire that is unshielded. I am assuming that is the mute signal for GPS and phone.
I tried replacing the dash speaker with a high end infinity tweeter but seemed to lose some of the upper midrange music. The tweeter only goes down to about 2500Hz so it won't work with the Lexus crossover system.
I have a Audio Control DM-608 on order so will see if I can redo the complete system and clean up the sound. Not sure if I can tap the signal coming into the amp, or will have to use the processed signal coming out.
Thanks a ton Notabot! I am looking to replace with the kickers. I read your post and did some scouting on my own. I thought these pictures could supplement what you already provided.
Left dash corner grill. Two front retaining clips are towards the rear of the car, slots in the sides of the grill for pry too. The window side has two hook shaped pieces that slide and rotate out.
I don't see anything that would interfere depth wise. 1+3/4 depth would be totally fine. Left dash mounting space. Holes are about 116mm center to center or 4.566 inches.
In this photo I am measuring the height of the bolt head above the speaker plate. 7.34mm or .29inches. This speaker is pretty flush. Be careful using any coaxials that aren't 'flush mount'. The screen over the tweeter is about the same height as the hex heads.
Center channel grille is much harder to pry out, be patient and jiggle it a little to get the back snaps to release.
I experimented with it a little bit. My local speaker shop said they usually end up disconnecting these. I disconnected mine, but found the phone volume too low. When it is connected there is barely any sound coming out of it in regular (non 5.1 mode) hard to tell it is even making any sound.. I will probably leave the stock one in.
Center channel= 5 ohm, 116mm bolt spacing, 10mm hex heads. Grill touches the foam surround, you have to be careful about how flush your replacement speakers are. Hex head with stamped metal piece under it is .329".
I have a 2015 CT200H. I'm planning on replacing my dash speakers with JL Audio C2-350x (hopefully the grill still fits over them) on the stock radio. I'm also going to replace the door speakers.
First of all thanks to the creator of this thread (Notabot). The instructions you did made this job super easy. I replaced all three dash speakers in just under 1.5 hours. I used the Infinity REF 4032CFX 4" speakers for all 3 speakers. The sound is definitely brighter and clearer. I used the Metra 72-4568 wiring harness. I used my dremel to remove the outer housing (see pic).
Trimmed Metra 72-4568 using a dremmel
Metra Harness to factory harness covered with electrical tape
I added a JLAudio W6 10" in the JL audio box with a JL Audio XD600v2 600w @2ohms amp. This sub hits super hard and takes up minimal space I highly recommend this set up
I added a JLAudio W6 10" in the JL audio box with a JL Audio XD600v2 600w @2ohms amp. This sub hits super hard and takes up minimal space I highly recommend this set up
any pics of the process?
which wires did you tap your amp into? doesn't it overpower the speakers that are hooked into the stock amp?
i have the older gen infiniti 4022 in my dash as well as focal 6.5 on all doors. i might add some bass in the future as it's a bit lacking at the moment. But i wonder if the stock amp + aftermarket speakers can keep up with an amp/sub combo in trunk
No pics of the process. My local car audio shop here in Charleston SC did the install. They mounted the amp underneath the rear deck. I have a remote bass **** to turn the sub up and down. I am planning on putting sound dampening materials on this weekend and upgrading front door speakers to Infinity 6x9's. Will try and post pics of that process next week Remote Bass **** JL Audio XD600.1v2 mounted to rear deck JL Audio HO110W6 still leaves ample trunk space. If needed can be easily removed to have the whole trunk Cone of JL Audio HO110W6
08-31-16, 05:58 AM
