I posted in the Hybrid section, but doesn't seem like it's getting much attention.

2014 ES300h with 134k Miles.

Getting ready to do some maintenance and wanted to make sure I have the correct part numbers and quantities. If something looks off (like the number of gaskets for the drain plugs), please let me know! I've been trying to piece these together based off different Youtube videos and threads on here. I am also unsure if I should even do the transmission oil change. I've read that some change them and others have never changed them.

Air Filters:
- Cabin Air Filter (87139-07020)
- Engine Air Filter (17801-0V020)

Oil Change: (this is for the next 2 oil changes)
- 15 quarts Valvoline Restore and Protect 0W-20
- 2x Oil Filter (04152YZZA1)
- 2x Oil Drain plug gasket (90430-12031)

Sparkplugs
- 4x Denso FK16HR-A8 (90919-01259)

Inverter/Engine coolant Change
- 3 gallons Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC) Pink (00272-SLLC2)
- 1x transmission Drain plug gasket (90430-18008)

Transmission Oil Change
- 6 quarts Toyota ATF WS (00289ATFWS)
- 2x Transmission Drain and Refill plug gaskets (90430-18008)

 

I'm in the same boat with my 2013 300h. It has 200k miles. I bought it last year and I'm starting to do all the work you listed above, plus brake and power steering fluid. So far I have replaced filters and engine oil. Next will be tranny fluid and coolants. Tranny definitely, 100% needs to be drained and filled at 90k or sooner, based on my research. Mine was done at 125k so it is due for another. It is not a traditional CVT so the fluid's function is not as critical, but still needs changing to prolong life.

 

90k intervals for transmission drain and refill? Yikes I'm over by 40k if that's the case. I was planning to do it at 150k and thought I read somewhere that would be fine.

 

It has electric power steering like every other Lexus ES has had since about 2007. So no need for power steering fluid.
I would also do a brake fluid flush every 3 years. If doing it yourself there are YouTube videos. One thing to note on a hybrid is do not open the drivers door when doing the bleed as this activates the ABS pump and it will screw things up. Shops charge less than $200 on average to do this service. Find an independent Japanese car specialist.

 

2007-2012 ES had a hydraulic power steering.

 

Looks like I am due for a brake fluid flush as well then. I had a shop do this for $115 at 100k in November 2022. It's $167 today lol.

 

Curious why 6 quarts of tranny fluid (WS)? The eCVT (aka power split device) doesn't hold that much, and you really don't need to flush it per se. Just drain and fill. There is some "official" procedure for warming it up a little and doing 3 drain and fills, but very few of us do that.i drained ours at 50k and it was pretty dark in color. Granted, color doesn't mean everything and I did not perform a used oil analysis, but I was surprised at how dark it was for not being under the same pressures and abuse of a normal transmission.

 

I read somewhere online that it would need 4-6 quarts, so I was just going to get 6 just in case. If I only need 4, then I'm open to doing that and spending less lol.

I also may be mixing up "drain/refill" and "flush." What's the correct term for the process?

 

Thanks for clarifying! Glad I don't have to do that then!

 

They may have just done the "turkey baster" method, where just the fluid in the reservoir is replaced. I actually just did this on mine yesterday. Got a fluid extractor syringe and got about 16 ounces out of the reservoir. Filled it with Valvoline Dot 3$4 fluid. It is not as good as bleeding all 4 brakes, but what I have read so far is that the fluid in the lines and inside the calipers does a "slow exchange" with the reservoir fluid mainly due to temperature changes caused by braking. So in a matter of weeks or months the fluid in the reservoir will mix with the remaining fluid. Then do the same again in a month or two (fluid is cheap) to further dilute the original fluid.

I prefer to do it this way because the regular bleeding procedure (supposedly) does not get the fluid inside the ABS unit loop, so some old fluid will remain regardless, unless you get a scan tool and follow a very particular ABS bleeding procedure. Sounds a little complicated to me and there is the potential for something to go wrong on an older car. There is also a risk of stripping or breaking the bleeder screws if they have not been used since the car was new. This is why - reportedly - even Lexus and Toyota dealers only do the turkey baster method on higher mileage cars in order to protect themselves from causing any issues during the flush.

Up to you but I prefer to keep it simple and use the 5-minute syringe method, which I can repeat multiple times.

 

Interesting! So sounds like the reservoir will always contain newer/cleaner fluid? I always thought that all the fluid just gets old all at once and is constantly cycling through as I drive and brake.

Is this the Valvoline you got? Just repeat this process again in 2 months? How many times do you think it'll take to be completely filled up with newer fluid?

 

Yes that's the one. This is one of those things where you should do your own research and make your own informed decision. There are good arguments on both sides. You tube is full of videos on this topic.

 

Iirc, it holds just under 4 quarts but check your manual. I'm not anywhere near our ES to check. For brake fluid, just changing fluid in the reservoir does not do much IMHO, as a system does not recirculate the fluid. The fluid at the calipers are going to continue to collect moisture, and that's where the action is happening aside from the ABS pump, so a standard brake fluid bleed would be best.

Regarding drain and fill versus flush, I think most would agree that flush implies using some sort of pressure behind the fluid to push it through the system. For a standard automatic transmission, I prefer places that use a exchange machine versus a flush,,, the exchange machine uses the transmission's own fluid pump to move the fluid around rather than some external pressure source.

HTH

 

The ES300h transaxle or power transfer unit as Toyota calls it cannot be flushed or fluid exchanged.
It is serviced like a manual transmission in that the old fluid is drained out, then it is filled up until fluid pours out of the fill hole.
When you drain it you are draining all of the fluid as there is no torque converter to hold fluid. It only holds a little over 4 quarts.
It is a simple process to drain and fill it. There are many YouTube videos.
Always loosen the fill bolt first as you do not want to drain it and then learn you cannot get the fill bolt loose!

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Swapping out the brake fluid in the reservoir does nothing for the brake fluid in the brake calipers. The fluid does not flow and mix. It is stationary but subject to pressure to push the brakes. You need to bleed it to flush out the old brake fluid. I use a vacuum system machine to pull the fluid through the brake lines, going around the vehicle loosening up each bleed screw and letting it flow until clean fluid appears, or if it is hard to tell, until enough has flowed through. I usually go though a quart bottle of brake fluid when doing this process. On a hybrid you have to be careful not to open the drivers door and activate the abs pump while bleeding or you will introduce air into the system.

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