So I went around to find a 10mm deep socket all over town and they are for some reason sold out of them !
so I decided to use a funnel system to burp my system as seen in an instructional video. I was only getting a few tiny bubbles but after a while I got big bubbles every 10 or so seconds for about 5 or 10 minutes (should have set a watch ). Then every once in a while I would get one every minute or so. So I definately got most if not all air out of my system. After I put the new radiator in I’ll use the purge valve or use this nifty funnel system (seals fully to radiator)
by coolant temp was 133 for a while but eventually it got to a constant 125 as more and more bubbles came out the system. (Used a temp gun ). What’s a good idle coolant temp anyway ?

 

Running temp is 186F.

 

You need to get the bleed open, it will have air trapped there and you also need to get it up to full temp or the thermostat will not be open.

 

Agreed!

Too, what instructional video did you watch that didn't include opening the bleed valve? The only video you should be following was provided to you in post #11 of this thread. Since you now have the funnel, you only need the 10mm deep socket, a piece of clear 1/4" tubing, and a spring clamp to hold and direct the tube into the funnel.

DIY car maintenance is relatively safe and simple if one follows basic instructions. On the other hand, if one is prone to cutting out steps or making things up as one goes along, car maintenance should be left to the professionals, as mistakes can become expensive lessons.

 

I had it running like 45 min

 

I bought a system funnel that tightens to the radiator and makes a seal then I filled the funnel half full with fluid and ran the car for 30 minutes. It was fully hot and plenty bubbles. Next day my reservoir is almost empty after running and getting the air out yesterday (unexpected)And the radiator is full to the brim.
getting the new radiator tomorrow.

 

It is not a matter of time that bleeds the air. It is a matter with air being trapped in the head (unable to be removed via normal means). That's why the bleed valve was provided by the Toyota engineers. Use it or lose it!

 

Then you have air in it for sure if that's as hot as it got up to.....

 

*slams face into table*

Okay let me try this again, if you don't open the purge YOU CAN'T GET THE AIR OUT. The system, even with a bleed funnel, has a high point of trapped air that the bleed screw releases. You again, can bleed it without any tools if you understand how to use the bleed screw.

The reason you had a massive coolant drop at the overflow was the air pocket cooled off and collapsed when the engine cooled drawing a lot of coolant into the system. That's normal and how that system is supposed to work like I already told you before in this thread. The issue, again....is that the way the coolant system is designed you can't get air out of the high point due to where the rad cap is even with a bleed funnel.

Open the screw.

 

I got the 10mm deep socket. It will be done thanks

 

LISTEN TO THIS. Please

 

OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit, 5 Adapters, Eliminate Trapped Air, Test Radiator and Heating Core Lines for Leaks, Vacuum Fill Coolant Tool, Vacuum Leak Tester

 

I got a 1/4 clear hose off amazon but it doesn’t seem to fit over the valve. It’s just barely not big enough. Any ideas on how to make it fit over the bleed nipple ?

 

Warm up the end of the hose with a hair dryer, lighter, or just leave it in the sun for a while. Once warm, it should be able to stretch-fit over the nipple. It's better to be too tight than too lose. That way, when the hot coolant starts flowing through it, it won't pop off the nipple as easily.

I'm glad you are going all in on this procedure!

 

My radiator was lost in transit from amazon rofl. Anyone have any recommendations on where I can get a radiator same day. Should I use autozone or advance oreilly ? Thx