Oil leak
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Oil leak
Hi everyone! My 2007 es350 definitely has a oil leak of some kind. I am not positive yet if it is engine oil but will do a dye test tomorrow.
Basically the silver/aluminum part right behind the passenger side pulley that is most visible (is that the crank pulley?) is covered with oil. Not a lot but there is definitely some kind of leak. What is that silver/aluminum part and any ideas? I will post an update once I get going on the dye test.
I read that it might be the timing cover oil leak. What exactly is that? Does that mean it is leaking from the front crank seal? Ive done a timing belt with all the cam and crank seals on a 2000 accord so if that is what it is, I can probably tackle this job.
Thanks!
-Charlie
Basically the silver/aluminum part right behind the passenger side pulley that is most visible (is that the crank pulley?) is covered with oil. Not a lot but there is definitely some kind of leak. What is that silver/aluminum part and any ideas? I will post an update once I get going on the dye test.
I read that it might be the timing cover oil leak. What exactly is that? Does that mean it is leaking from the front crank seal? Ive done a timing belt with all the cam and crank seals on a 2000 accord so if that is what it is, I can probably tackle this job.
Thanks!
-Charlie
Last edited by cl206; 09-15-18 at 05:10 PM.
#2
Have you replaced the vvt-i oil line? A recall covers the replacement. Ours got a pinhole and made a mess of the engine bay.
The timing cover oil leak is not on the crank seal (although it could be on yours), but I'm not sure where exactly oil breaks through. Our ES350 has the timing cover leak, but it is more of a seepage and the oil level has never registered low, even with 10k oil changes. Our leak runs down the block and down the PS pump. I wipe what I can reach every oil change. I noticed the leak/seepage after the warranty ran out; so, I've had to deal with it. The only change I made was go to 10/30 oil. It significantly reduced the seepage and wife never noticed a reduction in fuel consumption.
Another thing it can be is PS fluid. The OEM fluid is clear and gets dark with age, resembling motor oil. When I replaced ours, I had to replace the return line on the reservoir inlet as the hose was brittle and not far from cracking, which would have sprayed fluid in that area. I still need to replace the reservoir outlet return line at that hose has also hardened but at least it has a sleeve as a heat shield. I'll replace it at next PS flush.
The timing cover oil leak is not on the crank seal (although it could be on yours), but I'm not sure where exactly oil breaks through. Our ES350 has the timing cover leak, but it is more of a seepage and the oil level has never registered low, even with 10k oil changes. Our leak runs down the block and down the PS pump. I wipe what I can reach every oil change. I noticed the leak/seepage after the warranty ran out; so, I've had to deal with it. The only change I made was go to 10/30 oil. It significantly reduced the seepage and wife never noticed a reduction in fuel consumption.
Another thing it can be is PS fluid. The OEM fluid is clear and gets dark with age, resembling motor oil. When I replaced ours, I had to replace the return line on the reservoir inlet as the hose was brittle and not far from cracking, which would have sprayed fluid in that area. I still need to replace the reservoir outlet return line at that hose has also hardened but at least it has a sleeve as a heat shield. I'll replace it at next PS flush.
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply Chuyrobles. My car did have the vvti recall done several years ago and now I am just hoping maybe it is a pinhole leak. I havent checked the Ps steerig fluid yet but if the dye doesnt come out from the engine oil block I will look at that next.
Also there is virtually no oil I can see from the top nor the side so it looks like it is only on that part just behind the crank pulley. Maybe indeed there is a pinhole leak somewhere. I think tonight I will run the car and see if i can see dye spraying from somewhere...
Also are you in a cold climate? I understand that 10w or 5w wont matter as much if say you live in texas but im in the northeast so it gets cold but if the 10w works for you i migt try that too.
Charlie
Also there is virtually no oil I can see from the top nor the side so it looks like it is only on that part just behind the crank pulley. Maybe indeed there is a pinhole leak somewhere. I think tonight I will run the car and see if i can see dye spraying from somewhere...
Also are you in a cold climate? I understand that 10w or 5w wont matter as much if say you live in texas but im in the northeast so it gets cold but if the 10w works for you i migt try that too.
Charlie
Last edited by cl206; 09-16-18 at 05:55 AM.
#4
I'm in San Diego area. Mid 90's this week; went through triple digits on/off the past 30 days.
How does the bottomside look like? If your warranty is out and oil is not dripping to the floor, you may just have to live with it. A timing cover gasket replacement is a big job. If you find the source of the leak you can probably glue it shut with high temp silicone - some Tacoma owners have done that successfully (05-06 V6 models have a leaking timing cover.)
How does the bottomside look like? If your warranty is out and oil is not dripping to the floor, you may just have to live with it. A timing cover gasket replacement is a big job. If you find the source of the leak you can probably glue it shut with high temp silicone - some Tacoma owners have done that successfully (05-06 V6 models have a leaking timing cover.)
#5
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Okay it is definitely engine oil. I put the dye in today and drove only about 20 miles and at night decided to check it out. I was under the car, I was also at the passenger side well (after removing tire) and all I can see with the UV light is some random splatter of dye. I just cannot for the life of me find the source.
Also I was mistaken about the pulley. It is NOT the crank pulley. It is actually the one you can see to the left of it. All the pulleys and belts look oil free, so that is good.
I think Ill wait until the weekend to check it out again. It really isn't that much but after a while it does drip a small amount onto the ground. Ive checked the oil level and it is fine. If I can't find the source of the leak, I might just wipe it once or twice a month and live with it because it is way out of warranty.
Also I was mistaken about the pulley. It is NOT the crank pulley. It is actually the one you can see to the left of it. All the pulleys and belts look oil free, so that is good.
I think Ill wait until the weekend to check it out again. It really isn't that much but after a while it does drip a small amount onto the ground. Ive checked the oil level and it is fine. If I can't find the source of the leak, I might just wipe it once or twice a month and live with it because it is way out of warranty.
#6
That would be the power steering pump. That's where mine leaks down through also, but sounds like you have a larger leak. I'm going to be replacing my water pump within 2-3 weeks; maybe I can get a better look at the source of the leak when I remove the water pump.
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#8
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Igzy, if it is the timing cover leak, can you see the leak from the top? This weekend will probably remove come of the covers under the hood to see if I can get a better view of any dye traces.
#9
The oil then drips across the side and down over the engine mount (under the crank pulley)
#10
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
The leak is typically at the bank 1 side close to the firewall. It can be seen from the top with engine covers and strut bar off, if you shine the light and look with a mirror between the strut tower and close to the cyl #1. It is a real pain to see it as it is in a really tight spot. Here is the exact spot:
[img] http://carspecmn.com/wp-content/uplo...0000064538.png
The oil then drips across the side and down over the engine mount (under the crank pulley)
[img] http://carspecmn.com/wp-content/uplo...0000064538.png
The oil then drips across the side and down over the engine mount (under the crank pulley)
#11
Driver School Candidate
By avoiding your urge to buy low cost oil can prevent some leaks. Detergents used in some maybe, idk why but some oils actually do cause leaks.
I have to wonder if whats in certain brands of oils is what started those decades old rumours about switching over from dino to full syn caused oil leaks? I called that bs for yrs but not today.
A couple yrs ago I ran across the 5qt jugs of Harvest King full syn oil our local Rural King farm stores sell real cheap. For only $10 each heck I bought several jugs, (3) different grades.
Within weeks of changing oil in both our vehicles their valve cover gaskets began leaking like mad, neither ever leaked before.
I immediatly drained that crap oil out and put Mobil1 back in. Our Infiniti stopped leaking right away after but my Tundra never did stop, it only slowed.
I had to change the VC gaskets on it.
I used it in my Wheel Horse garden tractor cause its Kohler has old cork/paper gaskets & it never leaked. However it did burn almost a quart of oil over summer so for the first time since buying it over 30yrs ago I had to add oil to it. I changed it back to Mobil1 and this season was like normal again & never burned a drop.
Lesson learned those bargains can sure cost you, I really got lucky it wasnt an oil pan leak instead. I no longer look for bargain oils, its Mobil1 or Amsoil for me.
I have to wonder if whats in certain brands of oils is what started those decades old rumours about switching over from dino to full syn caused oil leaks? I called that bs for yrs but not today.
A couple yrs ago I ran across the 5qt jugs of Harvest King full syn oil our local Rural King farm stores sell real cheap. For only $10 each heck I bought several jugs, (3) different grades.
Within weeks of changing oil in both our vehicles their valve cover gaskets began leaking like mad, neither ever leaked before.
I immediatly drained that crap oil out and put Mobil1 back in. Our Infiniti stopped leaking right away after but my Tundra never did stop, it only slowed.
I had to change the VC gaskets on it.
I used it in my Wheel Horse garden tractor cause its Kohler has old cork/paper gaskets & it never leaked. However it did burn almost a quart of oil over summer so for the first time since buying it over 30yrs ago I had to add oil to it. I changed it back to Mobil1 and this season was like normal again & never burned a drop.
Lesson learned those bargains can sure cost you, I really got lucky it wasnt an oil pan leak instead. I no longer look for bargain oils, its Mobil1 or Amsoil for me.
#12
Just for my information , since the timing cover leak is so common with 2GE-FE engines , how common is it ?
Will it be fair to say that all 2GR-FE engines in service will eventually get the leak ?
are there examples who have high mileage and still no front timing cover leak ?
is the prevalence more than 60% ?
Wanted opinions from members.
Will it be fair to say that all 2GR-FE engines in service will eventually get the leak ?
are there examples who have high mileage and still no front timing cover leak ?
is the prevalence more than 60% ?
Wanted opinions from members.
#13
Last edited by sthpawil; 12-22-23 at 03:59 PM.
#14