Cjet

Hi All,
I have recently replaced my fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and 50% of the time, it still struggles to start, cold or warm. Today I swapped the Fuel Pump and Start Relays, and it started up faster, but still struggled, like it's still not getting primed when you first push the ignition switch. So I unhooked the fuel pump electrical connector and measure the ohms of the fuel pump. The manual says it should be between .2 to 3.0 ohms at 68*F. Mine measure .6 to .7 at 90*F, so I figure the pump is ok. Next, I checked to see if there is voltage going to the pump when the start button is pushed in the first time or the second time. Nope. No voltage, but when I go to start it, I do get 11+ volts and you can hear the pump turn on. It seems to me the pump is working ok, but for some reason it is not getting a "prime" voltage when the start button is pressed.

Not sure what to do next, I rechecked the engine fuse box and just discovered that fuse #11 (ST -starting system 30 A) in the engine compartment looks 'odd', possibly melted but I need to remove it to be sure. This fuse is inside a housing that also has fuse #12 (ALT - Alternator 140 A) tied to it. It is about 3 to 4 inches long. I think it is called a fusible link. Towards it's center, there is a clip you have to push to the side before you pull up on the fuse to remove it. I tried pushing that clip to the side and pulling up, but it will not budge.

Does anyone have any tips on how to remove this dang thing? If so, I would reallllllllllly appreciate any suggestions. Thank you.

LeX2K

I'm not familiar with your car but those types of fused are generally held in by bolts that go into the sides of the fuse contacts. On some cars you have to remove parts of the fuse block assembly from the outer shell to gain access.

Cjet

Nope, the fusible link was not the problem. I am not sure what is.