Camber on Allighment
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Camber on Allighment
Hi, Guys so I went into a new shop for my alignment today, and it was the frist time any shop ever told me that to get my alignment in specs that I would need to have an aftermarket camber bolts installed that would allow them to set specs properly. They wanted like 65 dollars a weel to do this would include parts and labor.
I have decided I am going to order some new struts for the front because at around 75k on them so far maybe it's time to get them replaced.
Most the shops around here are around the same price the ones that will allow me to bring my parts in all have a labor rate of between 100 and 125 per hour. I can get two Monroe Quick struts for 283 dollars after shipping charges for the pair so I decided that's what I was going to do. But want to order a good camber bolt. I know the front is 17mm, and the rear is 15mm from what I have read. I see such . Mooge. Acdelco. Movetech camber bolts. Are any of these brands a quality that would be recommended or is there another brand I should look for ? and I also see some have different adjustment specs what should I look into getting for this.
thanks
I have decided I am going to order some new struts for the front because at around 75k on them so far maybe it's time to get them replaced.
Most the shops around here are around the same price the ones that will allow me to bring my parts in all have a labor rate of between 100 and 125 per hour. I can get two Monroe Quick struts for 283 dollars after shipping charges for the pair so I decided that's what I was going to do. But want to order a good camber bolt. I know the front is 17mm, and the rear is 15mm from what I have read. I see such . Mooge. Acdelco. Movetech camber bolts. Are any of these brands a quality that would be recommended or is there another brand I should look for ? and I also see some have different adjustment specs what should I look into getting for this.
thanks
#3
Intermediate
iTrader: (8)
You're still running stock suspension right?
Sounds like the shop is trying to gouge you. The camber should be at such levels that it wouldn't matter. Generally speaking the only thing that would throw it off that much would be using aftermarket suspension and dropping the car down a couple inches. Even then, its not something to really be that worried about.
If you have a readout of the last time you had a alignment it should tell you what they adjusted it to.
Also, I never change struts until they're blown out. No need to replace something that still functions when it still has life left in it. Especially since there is no potential damage caused by its failure.
Note: SPC are the bolts you want to buy for the v6 camry. I have a set sitting in my garage if you're interested. I doubt you'll actually need them.
Sounds like the shop is trying to gouge you. The camber should be at such levels that it wouldn't matter. Generally speaking the only thing that would throw it off that much would be using aftermarket suspension and dropping the car down a couple inches. Even then, its not something to really be that worried about.
If you have a readout of the last time you had a alignment it should tell you what they adjusted it to.
Also, I never change struts until they're blown out. No need to replace something that still functions when it still has life left in it. Especially since there is no potential damage caused by its failure.
Note: SPC are the bolts you want to buy for the v6 camry. I have a set sitting in my garage if you're interested. I doubt you'll actually need them.
Last edited by xanderES; 01-01-16 at 10:56 AM.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
You're still running stock suspension right?
Sounds like the shop is trying to gouge you. The camber should be at such levels that it wouldn't matter. Generally speaking, the only thing that would throw it off that much would be using aftermarket suspension and dropping the car down a couple of inches. Even then, its not something to be that worried about.
If you have a readout of the last time you had an alignment, it should tell you what they adjusted it to.
Also, I never change struts until they're blown out. No need to replace something that still functions when it still has life left in it. Especially since there is no potential damage caused by its failure.
Note: SPC is the bolts you want to buy for the v6 Camry. I have a set sitting in my garage if you're interested. I doubt you'll need them.
Sounds like the shop is trying to gouge you. The camber should be at such levels that it wouldn't matter. Generally speaking, the only thing that would throw it off that much would be using aftermarket suspension and dropping the car down a couple of inches. Even then, its not something to be that worried about.
If you have a readout of the last time you had an alignment, it should tell you what they adjusted it to.
Also, I never change struts until they're blown out. No need to replace something that still functions when it still has life left in it. Especially since there is no potential damage caused by its failure.
Note: SPC is the bolts you want to buy for the v6 Camry. I have a set sitting in my garage if you're interested. I doubt you'll need them.
the shop had spoken to me about how the struts could be fine but the springs might be causing the camber to be off when i go out and look at it it does seem to be a bit lower on one side than the other and a few weeks ago when I had to put my cables on to get down the canyon it was harder for me to get room under the passenger side wheel well to get the chain cable on correctly and it was the passenger side that was out of also spect is what they told me.
I figured now with 130 go so its got 90k on it that's why I decided to belive them. And the other thing is my last set of tires where wearing uneven on the outside so another reason I believe what they were telling me.
#5
Intermediate
iTrader: (8)
Camber wear should be negative if its due to droop or leaking struts. That would be on the inside of the tire towards the axles. To check the droop make sure you're parking on level ground and just measure the fender lip to the sidewall of the tire. Make sure the pressures when comparing front then back are the same too.
While it could be due to camber it could also be your toe is out of spec. Either way if they were doing a 4 wheel alignment which should be roughly 60-100$. A good alignment shop would set the sensors up at the bare minimum before telling you that you were out of luck or needed camber arms/bolts. You would also be able to see their alignment read outs to make sure they're not lying.
While it could be due to camber it could also be your toe is out of spec. Either way if they were doing a 4 wheel alignment which should be roughly 60-100$. A good alignment shop would set the sensors up at the bare minimum before telling you that you were out of luck or needed camber arms/bolts. You would also be able to see their alignment read outs to make sure they're not lying.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Camber wear should be negative if its due to droop or leaking struts. That would be on the inside of the tire towards the axles. To check the droop make sure you're parking on level ground and just measure the fender lip to the sidewall of the tire. Make sure the pressures when comparing front then back are the same too.
While it could be due to camber it could also be your toe is out of spec. Either way if they were doing a 4 wheel alignment which should be roughly 60-100$. A good alignment shop would set the sensors up at the bare minimum before telling you that you were out of luck or needed camber arms/bolts. You would also be able to see their alignment read outs to make sure they're not lying.
While it could be due to camber it could also be your toe is out of spec. Either way if they were doing a 4 wheel alignment which should be roughly 60-100$. A good alignment shop would set the sensors up at the bare minimum before telling you that you were out of luck or needed camber arms/bolts. You would also be able to see their alignment read outs to make sure they're not lying.
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