How can be proactive with regards to the Water Pump
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
How can be proactive with regards to the Water Pump
I've heard a lot of horror stories about the water pump going and in turn destroying the entire engine... I wanted to know how we can be proactive and check the water pump to see if it's ok or whatever... before it ever messes up.
I don't know anything about cars so please be detailed.. are we supposed to check the water coolant to see if it's full, or should it be a specific colour?
And how can we check the water pump...?
is there someway you guys recommend, for example every few weeks to lift the hood and check something, if so check what? i've been told the water pump is supposed to be replaced at a certain KM, what KM is that and how do we check if ours has ever been replaced?
thanks
my vehicle: es350 2008 with 150,000KM (canadian car)
I don't know anything about cars so please be detailed.. are we supposed to check the water coolant to see if it's full, or should it be a specific colour?
And how can we check the water pump...?
is there someway you guys recommend, for example every few weeks to lift the hood and check something, if so check what? i've been told the water pump is supposed to be replaced at a certain KM, what KM is that and how do we check if ours has ever been replaced?
thanks
my vehicle: es350 2008 with 150,000KM (canadian car)
Last edited by Lexus081; 11-08-15 at 04:59 PM.
#2
As an owner of any car it is wise to lift the hood every couple of weeks or so (at least) and check the oil level, the coolant level, and the brake fluid level. These fluids are the "big" three. With the ES 350 it only takes a minute or so. The checking of the fluids is shown in your Owner's Manual. There is NO specified time/mileage to replace the coolant pump. BUT........the coolant should be a reddish colour and should be between the "F" and "L" marks. If you have to keep adding coolant to keep the level between those two marks, or the coolant is not visible in the expansion tank then further investigation is required as there is likely a leak somewhere. There is a TSB # L-SB-0091-11 that explains how to inspect the coolant pump for coolant leaks. Any "strange" noises (rattling/marbles in a jar sounds, etc.) from the front (right side) of the engine should also be investigated. The TSB is here: https://www.google.ca/search?q=L-SB-...L9jsjwPryoaICA It's the PDF at the top of the list.
Last edited by oldgrump; 11-08-15 at 08:30 PM.
#3
As an owner of any car it is wise to lift the hood every couple of weeks or so (at least) and check the oil level, the coolant level, and the brake fluid level. These fluids are the "big" three. With the ES 350 it only takes a minute or so. The checking of the fluids is shown in your Owner's Manual. There is NO specified time/mileage to replace the coolant pump. BUT........the coolant should be a reddish colour and should be between the "F" and "L" marks. If you have to keep adding coolant to keep the level between those two marks, or the coolant is not visible in the expansion tank then further investigation is required as there is likely a leak somewhere. There is a TSB # L-SB-0091-11 that explains how to inspect the coolant pump for coolant leaks. Any "strange" noises (rattling/marbles in a jar sounds, etc.) from the front (right side) of the engine should also be investigated. The TSB is here: https://www.google.ca/search?q=L-SB-...L9jsjwPryoaICA It's the PDF at the top of the list.
Good post and this is what I do each Saturday morning on our 4 vehicles. Also every 2 weeks check all tire pressures and as the weather get colder check and inflate to mfg. recommendations including the spare.
#4
To the OP.......in relation to being proactive in connection to the cooling system........according to the Maintenance Schedule (Canada) you are very close to the first recommended coolant change (10 years or 160,000 kilometers). So, if there is no record of the coolant ever being changed, then that is an item that could be worthwhile if you are going to hang on to this car. Obviously checking for any system coolant leaks including checking for signs of leaking coolant at the coolant pump shaft seal, and a system pressure test can be accomplished as well. Also, it might be wise to replace the serpentine accessory drive belt if it has never been done, or it's condition is poor. When the old belt is removed it is also the best time to check the coolant pump for leaks, and to check the bearing for excessive looseness, and how the pump feels when it is rotated by hand. It should rotate smoothly.
Last edited by oldgrump; 11-09-15 at 10:41 PM.
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hisstojay (10-20-17)
#5
Mine was caught at the 60k mark via the Lexus service. I recall before this hearing a slightly different noise in the engine bay as well as the slight smell of antifreeze. Anything smell or sound different, check it out. And yeah, check the bottle weekly (tough with all the plastics to do quickly, but it is what it is.)
#6
#7
Intermediate
iTrader: (8)
Since I am infrequently on this forum now a days ill give you some great advice so you dont end up bricking your engine when theres no coolant in it. Hopefully this message will help someone now or in the future.
IF YOUR COOLANT IS EMPTY YOUR TEMPERATURE GAUGE WILL NOT REGISTER.
Literally it wont go up from where it is when the car is off.
If you're car is started and the gauge doesnt move at all you better get out and check your coolant level or you will be in the market for a new engine (except if the sensor is broken)
Also, you should be checking the water pump regularly. A bit of seepage is normal. A lot of seepage means you need to get it replaced. It should never leak long enough for you to be completely empty. That is just poor car maintenance. Learn about cars so you can properly take care of them. 2 minutes of your time could save you from that $6000+ engine bill.
IF YOUR COOLANT IS EMPTY YOUR TEMPERATURE GAUGE WILL NOT REGISTER.
Literally it wont go up from where it is when the car is off.
If you're car is started and the gauge doesnt move at all you better get out and check your coolant level or you will be in the market for a new engine (except if the sensor is broken)
Also, you should be checking the water pump regularly. A bit of seepage is normal. A lot of seepage means you need to get it replaced. It should never leak long enough for you to be completely empty. That is just poor car maintenance. Learn about cars so you can properly take care of them. 2 minutes of your time could save you from that $6000+ engine bill.
Last edited by xanderES; 11-16-15 at 12:10 AM.
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#8
Driver
Thread Starter
Since I am infrequently on this forum now a days ill give you some great advice so you dont end up bricking your engine when theres no coolant in it. Hopefully this message will help someone now or in the future.
IF YOUR COOLANT IS EMPTY YOUR TEMPERATURE GAUGE WILL NOT REGISTER.
Literally it wont go up from where it is when the car is off.
If you're car is started and the gauge doesnt move at all you better get out and check your coolant level or you will be in the market for a new engine (except if the sensor is broken)
Also, you should be checking the water pump regularly. A bit of seepage is normal. A lot of seepage means you need to get it replaced. It should never leak long enough for you to be completely empty. That is just poor car maintenance. Learn about cars so you can properly take care of them. 2 minutes of your time could save you from that $6000+ engine bill.
IF YOUR COOLANT IS EMPTY YOUR TEMPERATURE GAUGE WILL NOT REGISTER.
Literally it wont go up from where it is when the car is off.
If you're car is started and the gauge doesnt move at all you better get out and check your coolant level or you will be in the market for a new engine (except if the sensor is broken)
Also, you should be checking the water pump regularly. A bit of seepage is normal. A lot of seepage means you need to get it replaced. It should never leak long enough for you to be completely empty. That is just poor car maintenance. Learn about cars so you can properly take care of them. 2 minutes of your time could save you from that $6000+ engine bill.
2) can i ask how and where you got your side mirror signal lights on your car?
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
my coolant fluid was near empty the other day at the mechanic, and he just poured more into it.
is this a sign my water pump is gone? and i see you guys say to check the fluid level to make sure the water pump is okay, but which fluid level are u talking about, as i dont know about mechanics of a car. are you guys saying to check the coolant fluid level, or is there another place to check the fluid level in the water pump?
i can never see the water pump when i open the hood so how am i supposed to inspect it?
also: the coolant that was already in my car was red, and the mechanic put green coolant fluid in. is this ok, as i heard ur not supposed to mix different coloured coolant fluids?
is this a sign my water pump is gone? and i see you guys say to check the fluid level to make sure the water pump is okay, but which fluid level are u talking about, as i dont know about mechanics of a car. are you guys saying to check the coolant fluid level, or is there another place to check the fluid level in the water pump?
i can never see the water pump when i open the hood so how am i supposed to inspect it?
also: the coolant that was already in my car was red, and the mechanic put green coolant fluid in. is this ok, as i heard ur not supposed to mix different coloured coolant fluids?
Last edited by Lexus081; 02-15-16 at 12:55 PM.
#10
iv been checking my coolant level on a weekly basis and it went from full to almost empty in a week, i filled it up and took it to the dealer for a diagnosis and they told me the waterpump is leaking. The coolant reservoir is #11
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
is it okay if he used green coolant? the coolant i had already was reddish/pink, and it was only about 30% of the coolant container, most of it was gone. does this mean waterpump leak or should i keep monitoring it?
#12
You should check it from underneath. Most likely your pump is going bad but there are a lot of places that can leak too. Some pumps fail at 30000, some can go 100000. I drove just over 70000 with my original pump and I decided to replace it. That pump was like new.
#13
To the OP.......in relation to being proactive in connection to the cooling system........according to the Maintenance Schedule (Canada) you are very close to the first recommended coolant change (10 years or 160,000 kilometers). So, if there is no record of the coolant ever being changed, then that is an item that could be worthwhile if you are going to hang on to this car. Obviously checking for any system coolant leaks including checking for signs of leaking coolant at the coolant pump shaft seal, and a system pressure test can be accomplished as well. Also, it might be wise to replace the serpentine accessory drive belt if it has never been done, or it's condition is poor. When the old belt is removed it is also the best time to check the coolant pump for leaks, and to check the bearing for excessive looseness, and how the pump feels when it is rotated by hand. It should rotate smoothly.
As an owner of any car it is wise to lift the hood every couple of weeks or so (at least) and check the oil level, the coolant level, and the brake fluid level. These fluids are the "big" three. With the ES 350 it only takes a minute or so. The checking of the fluids is shown in your Owner's Manual. There is NO specified time/mileage to replace the coolant pump. BUT........the coolant should be a reddish colour and should be between the "F" and "L" marks. If you have to keep adding coolant to keep the level between those two marks, or the coolant is not visible in the expansion tank then further investigation is required as there is likely a leak somewhere. There is a TSB # L-SB-0091-11 that explains how to inspect the coolant pump for coolant leaks. Any "strange" noises (rattling/marbles in a jar sounds, etc.) from the front (right side) of the engine should also be investigated. The TSB is here: https://www.google.ca/search?q=L-SB-...L9jsjwPryoaICA It's the PDF at the top of the list.
#15
Other than the drainage port under the water pump, coolant can seep/escape via radiator hose connections; thermostat housing; heater core (you'd smell coolant in the cabin); heater hose connections; pin hole in any of said hoses; head gasket failure; or a ruptured radiator, including an internal rupture that would allow coolant entering the ATF chamber, ruining your transmission.
If you are constantly having to top off the coolant reservoir, you need to pinpoint the leak as an internal leak can lead to catastrophic engine/trany failure. Externally, if the leak is very small, it will dry up before hitting the ground, but you will notice a dry crusty material collecting around the source of the leak.
If you are constantly having to top off the coolant reservoir, you need to pinpoint the leak as an internal leak can lead to catastrophic engine/trany failure. Externally, if the leak is very small, it will dry up before hitting the ground, but you will notice a dry crusty material collecting around the source of the leak.
Last edited by chuyrobles; 06-09-16 at 12:01 AM.