https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...-bone-copy.jpg

Or this:

 

Thank you very much for the quick response. So, to lift a bit the engine should I remove all three dog-bone shaped mount 14 mm bolts, or just remove the middle (long one) and loose another two.
Also I will appreciate it if you could help me to choose the spot where to place the jack. I would never place under the ATF pan. I am thinking to put it under the transfer case. Where did you place it?

 

I have purchased 10 mm flex ratcheting wrench to remove that hidden bolt on Lexus RX 350 transmission pan. I hope it will fit in. Did anybody tried it.

 

6 - 8 inch piece of 2x4 under the OIL pan on the flat part.

 

Finally, I did the job. After removing the plastic cover, I found the perfect place for the jack between the exhaust and ATF pan. It is engine block and solid. But nobody mention in the tutorials that to lift the engine you have to lose not one bolt on drivers side , but 4. Loosing one bolt on drivers side didn't allow me to lift the engine enough to clear the hidden pan bolt.
If I can, I will try to upload the photo of the jack location on engine.

 

Should you shift from Park to Drive a few times after ATF is replaced. ( start the engine, make two shift with a hold for 3 sec. in each position and then wait until the temperature will reach 104 F(40 C)

 

 

I followed DIY tutorials and drained and fill ATF on my Lexus RX350, 2015. I would like to share my experience. I drained 1.9 L when removed drain plug and plastic tube. Then I drained another 1.1 L after I removed transmission pan and filter. So I drained total 3.0 L, then I added 3.6 L of new fluid, started the vehicle and run it in Park position until the temperature reached 104 F (40 C) . I used ScanGauge 2.Right after I removed the drain plug and let access of the fluid drain out. As a result , I drained 800 ml (0.8 L ), what is 200 ml more than I added ( 3.6 L) . I am a bit concern - why I have got drained 200 ml. more than I added. My thought is maybe because I didn't shift the gear a few times from Park to Drive and the fluid didn't have a chance to go to torque converter. I know for the vehicle with a dip stick you have to go through the gears, but couldn't find any recommendation for Toyota/Lexus.In a few weeks I will be doing second drain and fill and if somebody gives me advise in this matter, I will appreciate it.

 

I found the perfect and 100% safe spot for the jack to lift the engine. It is absolutely safe.

 

I only had to loosen the single motor mount nut next to the transmission, then jacked the engine with a block of wood under the transmission pan. Here's what I used to remove the "impossible to get to" bolt (purchased from Autozone): https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dhptl/12408770-P. Description is:

DieHard 3/8" Drive 6-Point Flex Socket Set, Metric, 10-Piece

 

Can someone post pictures of these transmission filters cut apart to see how bad it is after 100k+? I am not convinced that with regular fluid changes it is necessary to change the filter. Its more of a stainer than a filter, right?

 

@tolian21 It is a paper element and they turn black with high mileage. You can see the discoloring in the first pic. I recently changed ATF filter a second time, at 290K, and it was relatively clean, compared to the first change. The pan and magnets were also significantly cleaner than after the first change.

 

It will probably cost a fortune to have dealership do it, if they agree to do it in the first place…

 

@tolian21 A competent transmission shop should have no problem doing this job. This transmission is quite common. It’s in the 3.5 Camry’s and Avalons. Also in certain models, Audi, BMW, Cadillac, Citroen, Jaguar, Land Rover, Lotus, Volvos, and others.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/AWTF-80_SC