lexusa

Hello everyone,

I am going to bring this back from the dead, I need help!!!

I just lower my ES350 2007 using the Eibach Prokit, 2010 Camry's V6 SE shocks with a set of BBS wheels and new tires (18x8). I took the car to be aligned, but after all the work the car is still drifting a little to the right. Tire kingdom said that is nothing that they can do because they can not adjust the CASTER. Does any one have this problem, is there anything I can do to correct the drifting to the right?

Thank you in advance!
SpeedyWinds

bsebastian

Were you able to get this fixed? I am considering the same set up as yours, Eibach Prokit with 18x8s. Did you have to install anything else in conjunction with the springs? When I went on Tire Rack's website and looked up suspension items for the car, it listed camber bolts as well. Did you have to get these? Could you post some pics (side and front/rear)?

Druha, same question for you - did you have to install the camber bolts as well? How is the ride these days? Stilll happy with the Eibach springs and 19's wheels/tires?

Thanks

flipp4

If your car is still drifting and you cand cant get the camber right you should look into gettting camber bolts for the lower strut mounts. On the es350 the two lower strut mount holes are round and not oblonged, these specialy designed bolts alow for movement of the lower strut mount therefor alowing you th change your camber. Caster is the angle your strut hits the ground, lowering the car will not affect this. but make sure you mark the strut mount in relation to the strut and spring before removing the old spring, the strut mount is angled and only gois on in one direction.

Any camry spring will fit on the es350. But the advertised ride hight drop will be different. The camry/es350 springs are the same shape, but they are different spring rates, thats why the ES rides better than the camry. When i bought my springs it said it would drop 1.6front 1.7 rear. I def got over a 2" drop all around.

as for tire sizes and wheel sizes go, in my opinion 19"s are to exspensive. 18's are cheaper but you wont even notice a difference from the factory wheels, You can get 20" tire wheel packages for starting at around $1,300. But you have to get the right width rim and tire size. 225/35 r20 fit perfectly. dont get 245 because they will rub your rear quaters.

I hope some of this was helpfull, let me know how you make out.

acdapast

Bringing this thread back from the dead again. So I've decided to get the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs ($240 on eBay). I'm going to use the 17" OEM wheels that came with the car until I can save up for some 19" or 20". I got a few questions and I hope someone can answer this.
1. I am quite new to this lowering thing. If I lower my car 1" using the Eibach lowering springs, is there anything else I have to worry about after such as is there anything else that has to be done after swapping out the stock springs with the Eibach springs?
2. I am planning to keep the car for another 2 years and it currently has 110,000k on it. Will lowering the car affect other parts of the suspension within these 2 years such as wear and tear (so far there are no major problems on the ES and the car is serviced regularly.)
3. Biggest problem: for those who have lowered their car using the Eibach, are there any damages to your front/rear bumper and side skirts? I usually slow down excessively when there are speed bumps or drive around pot holes but sometimes my mom takes the car out and she doesn't do any of that. So far with the stock suspension, there are no damages when my mom drove it but will it increase the chance of having damaged areas after lowering it or do I have to be more cautious such as parking, entering/exiting ramps, pot holes, speed bumps, curbs? In addition, it snows during the winter here in Canada, will lowering cause MORE damage to front/rear bumper and side skirts as well?

Thanks.

bsebastian

I'm in the same boat as you. I also recently purchased the same prokit on Ebay but its sitting in my garage while I consider some of these details you mentioned. I'm also going to keep the stock 17x7s for about year or so and then go with 19s or 20s. At first I was thinking 18s to keep it conservative but I'm seeing many cars with 19s and 20s straight from the factory (Jaguar XF with 19s and the new BMW 5 series with 20s) and they look tasteful.

However I would want to maintain a slightly higher sidewall profile on the tires to keep the ride somewhat smooth so I will probably avoid the 35series profile and pay slightly more for the less common 45series profile. That will also help with the impact from potholes, speed bumps, etc. You just have to try and keep the overall tire/wheel height close to stock to keep the odometer properly calibrated.

Bonus info
I did a spreadsheet to see what combination of rim height/width and tire width/profile would yield in terms of total wheel/tire height. The stock 17x7 with 215/55/17 has a total height of 26.3". You can pretty close to that with a set of 19s with 225/40/19 tires which will yield a total height of 26.5". If you really want 20s then you'll have to sacrifice some sidewall height and the combination that comes closest to the original factory height would be 225/35/20 which yields a total height of 26.6".

Hope this helps.

MadMax96

Nice job - but you're overthinking it - just go here:

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

This page has been around for years - I keep it bookmarked since it's so handy.

bsebastian

That's brilliant! - Thanks for sharing. Now what do I do with this spreadsheet I so painstakingly created

SC3_5SPD

It's really great how such insightful information remains on these pages for those getting ready to embark on similar journeys!