2000 ES300 Alternator replace for the 3rd time
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
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From: Maryland
While at it, you can also upgrade to a 100A alternator off of Highlander/RX300, since it bolts right up to the old internals and gives a much better performance; the fun part is that JDM Toyota Windom comes from the factory with that 100A unit. Stock 80A ones are really underpowered, to the point of the idle starting to fluctuate when you put the hazards on.. Denso 210-0439 should work for your car, and it does cost about the same, if not cheaper than a NAPA unit.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 1,102
From: Michigan
That cutout was actually on both sides, I had to remove the black piece to grind away a little of the plastic. And it only fit one way as it has a D shaped hole in the alternator.
The third picture you can probably see that hairline gap between the bottom of the wire and the top of that nut.
But it sounds like your saying the alternator is no good. I'll order the 100A one your saying to get.
The third picture you can probably see that hairline gap between the bottom of the wire and the top of that nut.
But it sounds like your saying the alternator is no good. I'll order the 100A one your saying to get.
Not sure what you mean.. The B+ terminal, as well as the rest of the alternator should bolt up to the car with no modifications.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 288
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From: Maryland
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 1,102
From: Michigan
In the perfect world, it would, but we don't live in one, so you should be fine as long as you don't push it to the limits.. Alternators are designed to be operated at about half of their rated output, that is where they are most comfortable, by installing a more powerful alternator, you don't push it to the limits like with a lower grade one, which in turn lowers the load on the engine and the alternator.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
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From: Maryland
Seems like that part number was replaced with
DENSO 2101028
Rockauto has it for $160
Will use my credits to get it from Napa just because I've had a big hassle with the return policy for Rockauto.
Additionally I found out when we bought this car it had a Napa alternator already installed so we've always been getting replacements from them under warranty. Never had to pay.
DENSO 2101028
Rockauto has it for $160
Will use my credits to get it from Napa just because I've had a big hassle with the return policy for Rockauto.
Additionally I found out when we bought this car it had a Napa alternator already installed so we've always been getting replacements from them under warranty. Never had to pay.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 288
Likes: 30
From: Maryland
While at it, you can also upgrade to a 100A alternator off of Highlander/RX300, since it bolts right up to the old internals and gives a much better performance; the fun part is that JDM Toyota Windom comes from the factory with that 100A unit. Stock 80A ones are really underpowered, to the point of the idle starting to fluctuate when you put the hazards on.. Denso 210-0439 should work for your car, and it does cost about the same, if not cheaper than a NAPA unit.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Hope this helps and best of luck!
I got the 100A alternator from a 2001 Rx300 installed so easily without having to remove the giant cooling hose. Connectors fit and the B+terminal cable slots into the housing perfectly.
Bad news I need y'all's advice.
The stud bolt that holds the bracket to the alternator that looks like it attaches to the bracket that holds the dogbone mount may have slipped a thread inside the block? I may have gotten to heavy handed and torqued the nut too much. How important is this stud? Looks like the torx-bit head on the stud was rounded by someone. Can I just got it on snuggly/to face or will this be an issue?
The stud is about 3-4" with only the last 1/2-1" being threaded.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 288
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From: Maryland
What I did was took the stud/nut out, took off the nut and put it on the opposite side, put a little bit of thread locker on the new thread and reinstalled the stud back in.
Alternator seems to be charging the battery just fine, battery warning light is gone and I don't hear any bad noise coming from the alternator, seems to be good so far
Alternator seems to be charging the battery just fine, battery warning light is gone and I don't hear any bad noise coming from the alternator, seems to be good so far
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 1,102
From: Michigan
What I did was took the stud/nut out, took off the nut and put it on the opposite side, put a little bit of thread locker on the new thread and reinstalled the stud back in.
Alternator seems to be charging the battery just fine, battery warning light is gone and I don't hear any bad noise coming from the alternator, seems to be good so far
Alternator seems to be charging the battery just fine, battery warning light is gone and I don't hear any bad noise coming from the alternator, seems to be good so far
As for the stud, was the thread shiny at all? If so, it may indicate that something slipped and got damaged, but as long as the stud and a nut threaded on with no issues, and you know there may be something with it and treat it carefully, you should be fine. Even if the thread is completely gone (which is quite an overkill in your case), there should still be plenty of material in there to either tap a bigger one (like M8 instead of M6) or get a repair kit if you want it to stay OEM. For now though, just keep an eye on that stud, see if it stays in place..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 288
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From: Maryland
Seems like you pretty much got it all sorted out. Glad the new alternator solved the issue!
As for the stud, was the thread shiny at all? If so, it may indicate that something slipped and got damaged, but as long as the stud and a nut threaded on with no issues, and you know there may be something with it and treat it carefully, you should be fine. Even if the thread is completely gone (which is quite an overkill in your case), there should still be plenty of material in there to either tap a bigger one (like M8 instead of M6) or get a repair kit if you want it to stay OEM. For now though, just keep an eye on that stud, see if it stays in place..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
As for the stud, was the thread shiny at all? If so, it may indicate that something slipped and got damaged, but as long as the stud and a nut threaded on with no issues, and you know there may be something with it and treat it carefully, you should be fine. Even if the thread is completely gone (which is quite an overkill in your case), there should still be plenty of material in there to either tap a bigger one (like M8 instead of M6) or get a repair kit if you want it to stay OEM. For now though, just keep an eye on that stud, see if it stays in place..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thank you all very much!!
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