Hello everyone!
I have a 2007 Lexus ES350 with 135,000 miles. I noticed that when accelerating and reaching 40-45 mph, the car begins to vibrate, the whole car. Past 40-45mph the whole car stops vibrating and is smooth. I replaced all 4 tires because they were bald and thought that would solve the problem. However between 70-75 mph, the vibrates horribly, AND the vibration between 40-45 mph is still there. I jacked the car up grabbed the wheel on both sides at 9 and 3 and 6 and 12. There is no excessive play. Someone suggested I get an alignment and rebalance all 4 tires. Also the work I've done to the car were front engine mount and the dogbone mount, i did not replace the side mounts on either side of the car. Transmission does not shift weird or slip. So I am lost at what to do now.

PS. I also replaced front brake rotors and pads, and replaced the rear pads, but not the rotors. Also transmission has been serviced before as well at 132,000 miles with ttransmission filter replacement and gasket. fluid was replaced with toyota WS.

EDIT: i also rotated tires, still no avail

Thank you all in advance

 

The driveshaft.

 

How would test to see if they are okay?

 

look at both drive axles and look for torn boots....if original I’d bet heavy on that being the source...I generally replace both sides if one goes the other isn’t far behind.

 

Thank you guys for the replies! I took a look at the CV joints, and there are no tears or grease "sling" around. Maybe they are worn internally? Any aftermarket suggestions? OEM prices are killer and I heard mixed reviews about Cardone. Should I find another good alignment shop to take the car to diagnose first?

 

Yes. Find a reputable, honest shop to evaluate your vibration issue.

This is a good source to find honest, competent mechanics. These are shops recommended by listeners of the old NPR radio show Car Talk

https://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files

 

Reading 1st post; looks to be worn out CV shaft. Replaced ours at about 180K but started feeling slight vibration at acceleration at about 150K. The vibration was controlled by accelerating a little harder, until I decided it was time to replace the shaft. Initially, I too, replaced the front brakes/rotors thinking they were causing the vibration. Bought it on amazon from about $65; Cardone 66-5265. I also replaced the trany seal where the inside shaft goes in; that was about $12 at Napa. If you have rust under the car, I would not tackle this job for the carrier bearing will likely be seized, making it very difficult to remove. Being in SoCal, ours came off with no issues.
That was almost two years ago I replaced the passenger side shaft and the Cardone is holding up well. Also got the driver side shaft but I have not installed it as that side is still functioning well.

 

Thanks to all that replied. I had the tires rebalanced because it was honestly the cheapest solution. The tire place did not balance them correctly at first. Now it runs smooth on the highway.

 

Cv axle . . Mine are doing the same thing the right side . When i take my car to Jim Hudson Lexus they automatic do a full review of the car while they change the oil .

 

Hi everyone, just an update,
decided to buy CV axles from autozone. When removing the original axles from the car, upon inspection I found that the carrier bearing for the passenger side axle was wobbling like mad. I decided to replace both sides anyway and the car is smooth again.

 

What were the symptoms like after the wheels got rebalanced? At what speeds would it vibrate and would it only happen while accelerating? Where did you feel the vibration?

 

After I balanced the tires. The steering wheel vibrations were completely gone, however at 40-50 and 55+ mph speeds, the whole car vibrated. So I took my car in to Lexus and said the axles were leaking, but when I checked, there was no grease, and I’m pretty sure they didn’t clean up the grease either. I know the transmission is not the culprit because it still shifted smooth and quite frankly I’m not replacing the transmission. So the next step would be the axles. Replaced both, not hard at all btw to do. Now I would say it runs like new. I bought my axles from autozone with lifetime warranty. No way in hell im paying 800 per side for these, just to crap out again. If I’m correct, they did not update the part for the axle.

edit: the vibration in the body before the axle replacement only happened when you push the accelerator pedal, when you let off, it stopped vibrating

 

Excellent, this is really good to know.

 

Same problem, 2008 350ES, 180K miles, original axels/bearings, car warms up a bit about 5 miles, I get on the freeway, hit some uneven pavement, the whole front end vibrates at around 45-65 mph, Stops when I let off the gas. Starts back up when I hit the gas a little. Braking has a different vibration and much reduced. No clicking, ticking, thumping noises like your hear everyone say you hear if it is the CV joints. Had the Warehouse big box company rotate the tires thinking that if its a bad tire or bend rim, (I'm not too carefull with parralel parking) it would change the vibration to the rear. No balance or wheel issues. Been doing this for a month trying to figure it out while wifey keeps nagging me to take it to the shop. Ordered a drivers trans-axel on line ($59.00 inc tax and shipping). Had trouble with the old one with the spindle frozen to the bearing in the knuckle. Decited to pull the whole knuckle/axel and bring it to the shop. Machine shop gave it back to me! They could not get it loose. Took it home, soaked it in WD for a couple hours and put the thing in the chest freezer for 2 hours (wifey again) pulled it out and hung it in the vice with axel hanging down. Took a propane torch (mapp gas woud have been my preferanced but it was loaned out) grear puller, more WD40, and BAH. Figure I have a new axel, destroying the spindle is OK. Cranked the gear puller down with a 1/2" impact at 120 PSI till it barely moved, used my safety glasses. Cranked down till I thought it might bend the hub plate or break the puller. Then I hit the puller screw with the BAH about 10 times. It popped loose! Removed the puller and started beating it out thru the bearing and hub till the axel dropped out of the hub and knuckle on the floor. Installed the new drivers side axel. Much of the vibration was gone but it was'nt perfect. I figured I'm on the right track. Ordered another axel. (3 days, $67.00. Inc. Tax and ship). Should probably replace in pairs anyway. Sure enough, 2 new axels, smooth as silk. Yes, I used the old bearings! They tested out fine but its a risk. I'll take it. I'll keep an eye on them. Have a point and shoot thermometer I'll use from time to time on longer drives.