Hello, looking for help with my 2008 Lexus ES350.

My car started to lose power on the way to work and I managed to drive it to a mechanic who had recently (2 months prior) replaced an ignition coil (#6) for me. Luckily, I was able to get it into the first gear just to get there, but it would seem to slip off gear from time to time and I had to turn the car off and back on to get it to drive. The mechanic pulled the codes and said I now need two more ignition coils replaced. He explained how one is in the front, but the other is in the back and since he has to pull off the manifold to get to the back one I'd save money on labor later on by replacing the 5 older ones now since it was likely that the other two in the back would go out soon too. It made sense to replace them now while the manifold is off and I agreed to pay him close to $1300 for the repair.

As soon as I drove off I was getting major transmission flares and I had to bring it right back to him that same afternoon. He said it was running fine when he test drove it, but would check it out. This time he removed the transmission oil pan and found muddy fluid and metal shavings. He would have recommended a rebuild, but since there were metal shavings that was an indication that the metal component was broken, so because of the high cost and many parts needing to be replaced he recommended to replace it with a used or new transmission. I was already tapped out for money from the initial ignition coil replacements, so I opted for a used transmission with 118k miles, 90 day warranty (no labor warranty) for $1530. He said they'd help me out with labor and do it for $690 when normally it would have been $1150.

This time I drove it away and it was better, but definitely not the same. The engine was louder. With the doors closed it sounded like the doors and hood were open; not my typical quiet Lexus. What's worse is that I'm still getting transmission flares. Not as bad as before, but going from 2nd gear to 3rd (20-25mph) it flares about 500 rpm, going from 3rd to 4th (35-40mph) flares about 1000-1500 rpm. When I took it back to the mechanic again he was able to fix the loudness by clearing the ECU and having me drive it for 15 mins. He said it was still set to the previous trans and had to relearn the new one and had me drive it the way I drive. He didn't notice the flare when testing because he drives hard, and it was true, when he drove and I was in the passenger seat he was punching it 2000+ rpm, so he never noticed the flare. I explained that I don't drive like that, I accelerate very gradually. I don't race and really don't like revving over 2000 rpm if I don't have to. Anyway, I took it home and here a week later still getting the flares, especially when the car is cold. Once the car has warmed up it seems to go away and drive fine, but I feel like after investing about $3500 that it should be driving at least as good as it was just two weeks ago. I keep telling the mechanic my problem and he says that as long as there's no malfunction light in the dash then he wouldn't worry about it.

Sorry for the long story, but wanted to give as much background as possible. Not sure what to do next. Anyone have any idea on how to fix this or what to do next?

 

Oh wow! So your bill was $1300 for ignition coils???

 

Yes, 5 ignition coils (cost about $100 each at an auto part store) a new air fuel ratio sensor for rear head, and labor.

 

I hope for that price he also replaced your spark plugs while he was in there.
I also hope he changed the fluid on your new used transmission.
The dealer can run a flash on the ECU to help with transmission flare.

 

He did not mention the spark plugs, so I’m not sure about that, but he did say he put new transmission oil. The old oils was very dirty and had metal shavings. Thanks for the tip about having the dealer run a flash on the ECU. It’s worth a shot.

 

Try to reflash the ECU. If the flare stays then do an oil change, use OEM filter made by Roki.