2000 ES300 problem after replacing knock sensor
There is a loud cracking/rattling engine sound after replacing knock sensor #2. I double checked all hoses and wires and everything seems okay, switched it on again to try and hear where it's coming from for like 5 seconds but really that sound is loud and scary; after looking here and there and checking everything again I tried to turn it on but it won't start, felt like the battery died all of a sudden, charged it, turned on fine with that sound then just gave up. I also changed the sensors wiring harness, bypass hose, intake/plenum gaskets, spark plugs, air filter and PCV.
I am not getting the knock sensor code anymore or any other codes at all, I scanned multiple times but nothing. One thing to mention, while refilling the coolant I drained I heard a leak somewhere and noticed that I missed a hose somewhere under the maf sensor but other than that no leaks, smell or smoke of any kind.
All parts are OEM from Toyota
Please help and thank you.
I am not getting the knock sensor code anymore or any other codes at all, I scanned multiple times but nothing. One thing to mention, while refilling the coolant I drained I heard a leak somewhere and noticed that I missed a hose somewhere under the maf sensor but other than that no leaks, smell or smoke of any kind.
All parts are OEM from Toyota
Please help and thank you.
I am in favor of replacing the PCV valve again and checking the hose from it for oil and sludge buildup. You said you replaced it, but I have seen defective ones out of the box. Also, did you use Teflon tape on the new one? You should when installing.
BTW, I had no lights/codes when I replaced mine just recently for a lark... and noticed easier starting and better response annnd... that sloppy automatic transmission shifting problem my series (‘05 ES) has all but disappeared.
BTW, I had no lights/codes when I replaced mine just recently for a lark... and noticed easier starting and better response annnd... that sloppy automatic transmission shifting problem my series (‘05 ES) has all but disappeared.
I am in favor of replacing the PCV valve again and checking the hose from it for oil and sludge buildup. You said you replaced it, but I have seen defective ones out of the box. Also, did you use Teflon tape on the new one? You should when installing.
BTW, I had no lights/codes when I replaced mine just recently for a lark... and noticed easier starting and better response annnd... that sloppy automatic transmission shifting problem my series (‘05 ES) has all but disappeared.
BTW, I had no lights/codes when I replaced mine just recently for a lark... and noticed easier starting and better response annnd... that sloppy automatic transmission shifting problem my series (‘05 ES) has all but disappeared.
Anyways, the reason I say PCV is because the symptoms of a bad one are described by Mobsky and it’s the easiest and cheapest item he listed that he changed. My old one rattled and passed the suck/blow test, but the new one made mine start instantly and response was better.
My “cure” through experimentation is to “pet” your car with hi-test, keep your MAF clean, keep the air filter clean and I keep tire pressure right around 35lb front and rear. Works for me.
Last edited by Richardsr; Aug 19, 2019 at 07:47 PM. Reason: Add more
It’s like the transmission doesn’t know what gear to use (lower ones) in stop and go driving or when making turns. Most everyone that has the tranny series my ‘05 has knows what I mean. There are a dozen threads here on clublexus to it’s credit and if my memory serves me correct, there was even talk of a lawsuit about it. The ECU and the tranny “software”(?) don’t work well together when downshifting and speeding back up causing some really bad shifts at times.
Anyways, the reason I say PCV is because the symptoms of a bad one are described by Mobsky and it’s the easiest and cheapest item he listed that he changed. My old one rattled and passed the suck/blow test, but the new one made mine start instantly and response was better.
My “cure” through experimentation is to “pet” your car with hi-test, keep your MAF clean, keep the air filter clean and I keep tire pressure right around 35lb front and rear. Works for me.
Anyways, the reason I say PCV is because the symptoms of a bad one are described by Mobsky and it’s the easiest and cheapest item he listed that he changed. My old one rattled and passed the suck/blow test, but the new one made mine start instantly and response was better.
My “cure” through experimentation is to “pet” your car with hi-test, keep your MAF clean, keep the air filter clean and I keep tire pressure right around 35lb front and rear. Works for me.
I don’t know what year your Lexus is, but I know the ‘02 thru ‘06 ES models had the hesitation/confusion factor I’m speaking of.
I said previously that I baby mine and I guess my OCD is paying off.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
texcorndog
ES - 1st to 6th Gen (1990-2018)
2
Dec 7, 2011 09:40 PM





