When you say "new bolts" do you mean the special factory bolts with wavy washers? If yes, why would you add washers to those new factory bolts?

 

Yes, brand new bolts from the dealer with the crush washers included.

The problem with the 1MZ-FE was that the cylinder head isn't tapped far enough for the crush washers to crush and do their job of keeping the valve cover tight. The bolts bottom out before reaching their torque, causing a leak. Using 5/16" washers + new bolts should help mitigate this issue.

 

I did reuse the old bolts and added 1 washer to each. I torqued them each to 59 in lb. Since they tightened to the 59 in lb, I figured it would be sufficient with the 1 washer.

So it looks like I may need to secure new factory bolts along with the washers this time around.

 

I used new factory bolts without added washers and have had outstanding results....no leaks whatsoever. I did use OEM gaskets and Toyota FIPG where called for in the Service Manual. Torqued bolts to spec.

 

I did the same thing, except I used Permatex Black Stuff. I also hand tightened all the bolts by feel.

I think the leak is caused by a misaligned gasket.

 

How similar / different is this job on the 3VZ-FE engine in a 1992 ES300??

 

Fundamentally the job is the same, remove plenum/stays/brackets/wiring etc. to get the covers off. You don't have to remove the EGR tube completely on the 3VZ just unbolt it from the plenum. You might need an EGR gasket although I've had good luck with reusing them.

 

Just wanted to thank the writer of this guide.......

I was able to use it to help me get through the job on the 3VZ-FE engine..... Was much easier using this and a guide on the Toyota Nation forums than the FSM!

So big thanks the the OP!

 

Glad I can help!

Are there any significant differences on the 3VZ vs the 1MZ?

 

I think the biggest difference is the 1MZ using coil packs compared to the 3VZ having HT ignition leads from distributor to the spark plugs...

I didn't appear to have an EGR tube (or valve I assume) on my 3VZ, Lexus2000 mentioned simply not having to remove the EGR tube which implies there is one on at least some 3VZ's... So perhaps someone has removed the EGR system on mine... I wonder if "air hose No. 5" is normally hooked up the this as it's been blocked off with bolt on mine. Alternatively EGR might be an USA emissions requirement not put on Japan made vehicles, I'm not sure..

 

Although the 1MZ is the successor to the 3MZ they are quite different engines. Iron block/aluminum head versus all aluminum, different power band, lower redline on the 1MZ, weaker bottom end, much more prone to carbon build up and sludge to name a few. The 3VZ also is extremely resistant to pre-ignition the 1MZ is not.
Japan models did not have EGR and I'm sure other markets as well. North American cars do have it.

 

LOL, I didn't read the question properly, or make my answer clear...

What I meant was doing the valve cover gaskets wasn't much different other than the 1MZ coils
vs 3VZ leads to plugs but obviously that's not what was being asked!

 

You have to be very careful when installing rear cover back on. I installed everything and fired it back up and found it was leaking, drip, drip, drip. from back cover and I was pissed.
I took everything off again and found out that somehow gasket got torn, I think it was from sharp cam gear. Had to redo entire job again but now its not leaking.

 

Is there anyone here in the greater Indianapolis area that would be willing to replace valve cover gasket and knock sensors on a 1st gen v6 highlander for a reasonable fee?
I would buy and provide all parts and reimburse for labor
Dealer wants an ungodly ammount of money.


Thank you
Mike
3176982567

 

Here's a link to the photos from the DIY now that imageshack is gone. They're not labeled but are in order:

https://mega.nz/#F!qxxwBQxI!O_uyTkgS6IkpwDcWs4o7PA