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ABS Module Bleed lines

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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 07:26 PM
  #1  
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goose300
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Default ABS Module Bleed lines

Hello friends! Been a while since I posted in this forum after I got my GS about 4 years ago, but I still have my 01 ES300 and while it's a bit rusty underneath it still has life.

I've always had some issue that plagued the brakes. Basically a sinking pedal no matter what I did, feels like the biting point is so deep. I had the MC replace a few years ago, with unfortunately a poor quality one, it looks like its given it's life and what was happening was that the pistons in the calipers, notably in the rear and especially rear right were just not returning. This was after I replaced both calipers, and they were so fresh I could basically force the pistons back in by hand.

I'm assuming the master cylinder seals are dead and it's just not functioning properly anymore, so I picked up a new Advics (made in japan) master cylinder and I plan on replacing it this weekend.

One thing I've always been suspicious of was the ABS module, my ES is equipped with traction control (not VSC) and I was wondering if anyone knew which line(s) are the feed line(s) from that go from the master to the ABS unit. I'm concerned that air could get in those lines while replacing it and I have a pressure bleeder so I figured why not just bleed it if I can.

I'm assuming 4 of the lines are for each corner, and then there's one feed line (from the MC-> ABS) and one return line (ABS->MC). Does anyone know which one that would be? I'm inclined to believe its one of the middle two lines as they are thicker than the others.


If anyone has tips or knows how to fully bleed the ABS lines, that would also be greatly appreciated! Thanks
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Old Jun 10, 2025 | 08:57 PM
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Hello,

There really isn't anything too complicated about bleeding the Brakes in an ABS equipped car, nothing that would require you to mess with the ABS Module, unless you are planning on replacing it as well, for whatever reason. In my experience, you simply replace the Master Cylinder and proceed with bleeding the brakes normally, then drive around for a little while and bleed the brakes some more, just in case. What I have had happen is if you don't bleed the Master Cylinder individually, before attaching the Brake Lines, it can trap air on the inside, preventing the Brake Fluid from flowing, even if the Brake Pedal is depressed, it took me a bit to work out, but once I loosened the Brake Lines on the Cylinder, it only took a few pumps for the Brake Fluid to flow normally.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
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Old Jun 11, 2025 | 04:45 AM
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I agree with Arsenil, it is not that difficult to bleed the brakes when replacing the master cylinder.

There are a couple of ways to bleed a master cylinder, one is to have plastic lines going back to the reservoir and make sure all air comes out of it when you're pushing in on it you can bench bleed it or hook it up to do that and after that hook up the brake lines going to it and crack them a little bit and push down on the brake pedal and don't take your foot off the brake petal and tighten up both brake lines if you are lucky you might not have to bleed the whole system or see this video for another way.


https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...linder.280784/

See what The Car Care Nut, a Toyota Master Tech, has to say regarding how to bleed Toyota-Lexus brake systems.

​​​​​​

Last edited by Clutchless; Jun 11, 2025 at 04:58 AM.
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