When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was afraid fluid was leaking between the engine and the transaxle, but after a cleaning it looked more like the old pan gasket started to seep and spray fluid everywhere around it.
This is my second oil pan gasket and strainer replacement. First one was around 180k in 2012. Ever since then I’ve kept up with periodic fluid changes with synthetic ATF about every two years or 30,000 miles.
New gasket, new strainer, new bolts, new drain plug, 6 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, and a few coats of paint.
The before Back of the pan Drips on the exhaust hanger.
After degreasing Gasket is already weeping
Very pleased with how clean everything was. Pan looked a little dirty but nothing unusual. Magnets were filthy but pretty normal for what I’ve seen. Strainer removed Old strainer New strainer New strainer installed Most of the bolt holes started to rust Wire brushed 3 coats of chassis black New drain plug as an added bonus Finished product All back together Total fluid removed was just over 3.5qts; drain plug only: 2.75qt; w/ pan removal: 3.25qt; w/ strainer removal 3.5qt New fluid in!
You need to half your OCI that's a fair bit of clutch material ending up in the pan. Good on you for doing the maintenance yourself.
That’s good to know. I wonder if it’s a result of my OCI or caused by a shortage of fluid that one time I didn’t realize I was about 1.5 quarts low and was driving around with a whining noise from the transaxle until I figured it out.
I'd be questioning about the possibility of the paint inside the pan flaking off. On my Sentra, I didn't paint the inside of the pan because I thought there was a possibility of it flaking off due to poor prep, adhesion and how ATF and heat would affect the paint. I left it bare which I know isn't a great idea, but it's been 200K miles since and no problems.
Why didn't you also drain the differential while you were at it?
I just did this pan-drop operation recently @ 293K miles, having only done a drain & fill (trans & diff drains) once since I bought the car @ about 245K. I was shocked at the quantity of grime and ferrous sludge I found clinging around my magnets. I'm also hopeful it was due to the time, shortly after I took ownership, that I heard whining from the transmission/transaxle and found that the ATF level was too low, topped it off, then did a transmission/differential drain & fill.
I'd be questioning about the possibility of the paint inside the pan flaking off. On my Sentra, I didn't paint the inside of the pan because I thought there was a possibility of it flaking off due to poor prep, adhesion and how ATF and heat would affect the paint. I left it bare which I know isn't a great idea, but it's been 200K miles since and no problems.
I only repainted the outside. The inside still has the factory finish.
Originally Posted by BMeek
Why didn't you also drain the differential while you were at it?
I just did this pan-drop operation recently @ 293K miles, having only done a drain & fill (trans & diff drains) once since I bought the car @ about 245K. I was shocked at the quantity of grime and ferrous sludge I found clinging around my magnets. I'm also hopeful it was due to the time, shortly after I took ownership, that I heard whining from the transmission/transaxle and found that the ATF level was too low, topped it off, then did a transmission/differential drain & fill.
I tried it once before and almost broke the plug. If I recall correctly, there is very little room between the plug and the subframe, so I couldn’t fit a socket and ratchet in there and had to use a regular Allen key and a hammer. I think I finally got it out but barely any fluid came out of the differential hole so I decided to never mess with that plug again. The transaxle shares fluid with the differential so there is no point opening the second drain plug.
[...]
I tried it once before and almost broke the plug. If I recall correctly, there is very little room between the plug and the subframe, so I couldn’t fit a socket and ratchet in there and had to use a regular Allen key and a hammer. I think I finally got it out but barely any fluid came out of the differential hole so I decided to never mess with that plug again. The transaxle shares fluid with the differential so there is no point opening the second drain plug.
Ah. I guess I got lucky with my 10mm "allen socket"? for a 3/8" ratchet. It fits in the differential's drain plug no problem (but not much room to spare). Also, I drained nearly a quart of used ATF out of the differential.
At first I thought the inside of the pan was painted but it's an optical illusion. A540E has separate chambers for the trans/diff A541E does not.
Probably because I had the old plug screwed in from the inside out to keep the threads away from paint.
Wait I need to investigate this differential fluid further. My understanding is they share the fluid because it’s refilled through the dip stick. Is there a separate fill plug for the differential?
Originally Posted by BMeek
Ah. I guess I got lucky with my 10mm "allen socket"? for a 3/8" ratchet. It fits in the differential's drain plug no problem (but not much room to spare). Also, I drained nearly a quart of used ATF out of the differential.
I’ll double check next time I’m under the car, maybe I had it all wrong in my head.
[...]
Wait I need to investigate this differential fluid further. My understanding is they share the fluid because it’s refilled through the dip stick. Is there a separate fill plug for the differential?
My understanding also - the same system; filled through the common dipstick access. No separate fill. The differential portion's ATF reservoir is simply deemed worthy of its own drain plug in the 1998. I recall that this post confirmed my "nearly a quart" recollection from the differential drain. That thread suggests 3.8 qts for a simple "drain & fill" using both plugs. Seems I replaced nearly 5 qts draining both plugs and draining/replacing the filter & pan gasket. I also found it takes a few "drive & check" cycles to refill the system just right after draining the differential.
Good thread and pics! I’ve never done this myself on my ‘99 with 225k miles, so very interested to see what it looks like up there. I agree with you: very clean looking. You have inspired me!
I've not been checking in here as much as I should. I love what @hayk did as I'm a fan of fixing any little worn/rusted/hardware when I am working on my own cars. Here's some pics of my (new-to-me) DD Volvo ur-XC. I had a similar condition P2 XC70 until January when a semi driver decided to demolish it (and my back). Anyway, I refinish stuff as I work on it. On parts I modify/tweak that are out of sight, I re-do in what they call "Swedish Racing Green" ( a joke on BRG - swedish racing colors are a bright "Ford Blue" going back to the 1920s).
Anyway, I love it when people take the extra few minutes to strip/prep/prime/paint parts to re-install. If you get in the mind-set, it really takes no extra time as you do it as a little break between other steps in the main repair work.
Love it, Hayk!!!
My 2000 Volvo turbo I have been similarly refurbing:
05-28-21, 09:41 PM
300k transmission service (98)
