Amosotis

My 03 es300 was running fine one day, I parked then wouldn't start back up. Tried, cranked over but quickly stalled out. Has a new starter, alternator, fuel pump and battery. Changed myself this year. Replaced timing belt last year and is still good. I check the codes, got p0345. I replaced the camshaft position sensor bank 2 this morning. New code says p0348. I haven't checked the wiring yet, to see if the connection is ok. Have to get a light tester and batteries for my multimeter. Just curious if anyone else has the code P0348? And what did you do to fix it?

P.s- also changed spark plugs

LeX2K

Why did you replace the fuel pump? What was wrong with the starter? Are you sure your timing belt didn't slip? What was the compression reading?

Amosotis

Fuel pump was replaced because I thought it was bad when I replaced the timing belt. My dates are off, thought it was the fuel pump. Kept it new because the job was already done. The others failed and were replaced(starter/alt). Compression was around 90+ and fluctuated between 50 and 90+ between revolutions

Amosotis

Timing belt is still in place, just confirmed that.

LeX2K

90+? Should be 180 or more. Did you have the throttle plate all the way open? If not you can't get an accurate test.

Amosotis

No I didnt have it open all the way, the test hose was very jumpy when it was done. You could feel the pressure moving the hose rather strongly so I assumed it was fine. I did notice some engine oil inside the camshaft sensor connection housing. So I cleaned that out a moment ago with contact cleaner.

Collegeman

Funny, I have this exact problem today too. Check out the thread I just put and see if my car’s symptoms are the same as yours. My car is stranded on a bakery

JMReid91

Sounds like the MAF sensor has gone bad to me, I had the same issue with the car not starting and I changed the MAF and started up no problem.

Amosotis

Tried that already. Found out not getting fuel for sure, pump wont kick on. Test the resistance in the pump and all components of the fuel pump housing for resistance. Everything is. 01 ohms. Put power directly to the pump and it works for sure. Tested those if I was getting power and ground at the relays (efi/open) and that's good. Check the wiring harness that connects to the pump and that's good...?? But for some reason when I connect the pump back to the car it wont give the pump power to feed it fuel.

Arsenii

Hello,

How did you check voltage on the pump? Did you check the voltage in the connector or used a separate body ground?

In those cars, power to the pump goes only when the engine is cranking. Try using a test light in place of a fuel pump to see if you have power. If not, turn the ignition on and check the relay pins, you should have two contacts with 12V on them (one for the Switch and the other for the Coil), the relay is controlled with Ground supplied by ECU, you can use a control light to see if the Ground is coming to the relay while cranking the engine. Try shorting a switch of the relay to supply constant power to the pump, if you still won't get voltage on the pump, the problem is in the wiring somewhere between the pump and the relay. Just please be cautious, if you will short wrong wires, you may end up frying something. Check the resistance between contacts on the relay, a set that has resistance belongs to the Coil, you need to connect the Switch side.



Hope this helps and best of luck!