I'm going to do a full tune up on my 06. What else should I add to my list?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
I'm going to do a full tune up on my 06. What else should I add to my list?
A "new" 06 330 with 133k miles. I want her perfect under the hood before I start cleaning up the body and adding a system. I'm going to use all oem parts except for the brakes and wipers lol. Anything else I should go ahead and replace while I'm doing all of this?
- Drain transmission fluid
- Drain transmission fluid
- Flush all the other fluids
- Pcv valve and the little hose for it
- 2 valve cover gaskets (leaking oil)
- Air filter
- Cabin filter
- Spark plugs and the tube seals
- 2 belts, not the timing belt
- All rotors/brake pads
- Windshield wiper blades
I'll probably do the timing belt and water pump next year just for my peace of mind .
- Pcv valve and the little hose for it
- 2 valve cover gaskets (leaking oil)
- Air filter
- Cabin filter
- Spark plugs and the tube seals
- 2 belts, not the timing belt
- All rotors/brake pads
- Windshield wiper blades
I'll probably do the timing belt and water pump next year just for my peace of mind .
Last edited by funcrusher; 07-27-18 at 08:10 PM.
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Frankie98 (09-09-20)
#5
Pole Position
When you do the PS and ATF fluid, I would add some Lubegard Red to both - an ounce in the PS system and the rest of the bottle in the AT. I think the 06 has the transmission sealed and no upper fill tube, so have fun with that! (I have another vehicle like that, what a PITA). Don't use a DexVI thickness fluid, used TIV or something similar (Castrol TransMax HM is good, as is 3309 or TIV).
I would also get some SilGlyde and dress the critical hoses, door, window, and trunk gaskets with it. It can also be used as dielectric grease so useful, versatile stuff. Be sure to check and dress the PS hoses as those are weak spots in particular. Squirt some lock-eeze or powdered graphite in the ignition and lock cylinders at least every few years, starting now.
Check the upper torque strut for cracks; you need to peel back the dust covers to see. A lot of complaints about harsh shifting are because of this.
I wouldn't re-do the brakes and pads unless necessary - I'd visualize them when bleeding the brakes and then decide. If you do need to, I have found Raybestos SG ceramic pads to work very, very well and at a great price vs Akebono, et al. Raybestos also has coated rotors now; I put some on this past spring up front and don't have to worry about a rusty ugly mess up there years down the road.
I would put a meter on the battery and check the alternator voltage output at idle and multiple rpms. It's getting old enough to worry about and having a baseline knowledge of what it's doing at the moment can be helpful for the future. I would remove the battery, clean the tray, check the level and adjust, and then clean the top of the battery (furniture polish is really good for this, actually) and the hold-down strap. This can stop electrolyte trails that can short cells.
Go to a dealership and get a non-transponder spare key made (maybe $20?). Some key shops can cut the key, also. This can save you a lot of hassle in the future if you loose your main key. I don't know when the chip-coding started so hopefully after your year because then it gets a lot pricier.
I would also get some SilGlyde and dress the critical hoses, door, window, and trunk gaskets with it. It can also be used as dielectric grease so useful, versatile stuff. Be sure to check and dress the PS hoses as those are weak spots in particular. Squirt some lock-eeze or powdered graphite in the ignition and lock cylinders at least every few years, starting now.
Check the upper torque strut for cracks; you need to peel back the dust covers to see. A lot of complaints about harsh shifting are because of this.
I wouldn't re-do the brakes and pads unless necessary - I'd visualize them when bleeding the brakes and then decide. If you do need to, I have found Raybestos SG ceramic pads to work very, very well and at a great price vs Akebono, et al. Raybestos also has coated rotors now; I put some on this past spring up front and don't have to worry about a rusty ugly mess up there years down the road.
I would put a meter on the battery and check the alternator voltage output at idle and multiple rpms. It's getting old enough to worry about and having a baseline knowledge of what it's doing at the moment can be helpful for the future. I would remove the battery, clean the tray, check the level and adjust, and then clean the top of the battery (furniture polish is really good for this, actually) and the hold-down strap. This can stop electrolyte trails that can short cells.
Go to a dealership and get a non-transponder spare key made (maybe $20?). Some key shops can cut the key, also. This can save you a lot of hassle in the future if you loose your main key. I don't know when the chip-coding started so hopefully after your year because then it gets a lot pricier.
#6
If your struts haven't been replaced, I would do them. A bit of caution, if you do it wrong like I did, you can end up spending a lot of money to correct it. That said, KYB's are the best struts in the business. Monroes and Gabriels probably middle of the road and I don't know about the others. I tried using KYBs and the original strut mounts and it turned out disastrous for me due to improper installation. Three times. I ended up getting bent over at a repair place that calls themselves Christian Brothers. They gave me Monroe strut replacements as I got sick and tired of reinstalling the same struts over and over different top hats. The Monroe units are generally okay except you can hear them from time to time over uneven road surfaces. Next time, it's KYB strut assemblies installed by your's truly.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone. Something that's getting on my nerves is the middle of the dash has a loud rattle underneath when the car is in Drive and I'm at a complete stop....
Also the AC seems to be taking long to get cold on the 2 driver's side vents. I have to drive a little before they get extra cold like the passengers...
Also the AC seems to be taking long to get cold on the 2 driver's side vents. I have to drive a little before they get extra cold like the passengers...
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#8
Pole Position
Thanks everyone. Something that's getting on my nerves is the middle of the dash has a loud rattle underneath when the car is in Drive and I'm at a complete stop....
Also the AC seems to be taking long to get cold on the 2 driver's side vents. I have to drive a little before they get extra cold like the passengers...
Also the AC seems to be taking long to get cold on the 2 driver's side vents. I have to drive a little before they get extra cold like the passengers...
where do you live? Climate plays a role - so where has the car been during it’s life?
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
#11
Pole Position
Are you sure its not just low? Some leak-down over time is not unexpected, especially if not in continuous use. As cheap as refrigerant is ($5/can at WM), I would try pressurizing both sides to spec with fresh coolant and oil to condition the seals. Then see how it holds.
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
I'm going to go ahead and replace my starter when I do all this next month. Which one do I need? Confused on these different ones..
Last edited by funcrusher; 09-20-21 at 09:47 PM.
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
Here's what I've done so far
134k - condenser, AC compressor, magnet clutch assembly, evaporator, expansion valve, cabin filter, Oil Change
135k - alternator, battery, radiator cap, gas cap
134k - condenser, AC compressor, magnet clutch assembly, evaporator, expansion valve, cabin filter, Oil Change
135k - alternator, battery, radiator cap, gas cap
Last edited by funcrusher; 12-14-18 at 05:41 AM.