Engine Rattle on Right Side at Idle
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Engine Rattle on Right Side at Idle
2000 es300 224k. Just replaced the left bank vvt solenoid. Everything sounded good until it was at idle after the test drive. Got engine rattle on the right side.
Cold--fine. Driving--fine. Warm idle--rattle (and started to run rough).
Sounds like lifter noise to me.
Any insight would be great. Thanks. AJ
Cold--fine. Driving--fine. Warm idle--rattle (and started to run rough).
Sounds like lifter noise to me.
Any insight would be great. Thanks. AJ
Last edited by ajswep; 07-13-18 at 10:10 AM. Reason: more info
#2
Lexus Champion
Impossible to say without hearing the engine, upload a video to Youtube.
#4
I replaced one of my OCVs to have the other fail immediately. Cannot explain it or rationalize it. I had bought a pair at the same time figuring they would wear the same, but only had codes for the front and figured I would wait and see about the back. Despite the front-only codes, I could not restore smooth running unless I replaced both. It sounds crazy that one would fail after a test drive after replacing the other, however what you describe is exactly what I experienced. I would put a fresh OCV on that bank anyway. At 224k, it won't last much longer. I had to replace both at 248.9k, 11/'15 (I keep detailed maintenance records).
Just to check, you used an OE Toyota OCV, correct? Because the aftermarket ones are very hit/miss and not worth the savings.
Another option is to just wait for the code. Another thought is to at least pull the OCV screen on the back bank and check it, and pull the OCV itself and and clean the solenoid plunger body with carb cleaner to try to equalize and synchronize the action between the new and the old.
What you describe is just not unusual, a critical symmetric v-engine component being swapped and then a bank imbalance resulting.
Just to check, you used an OE Toyota OCV, correct? Because the aftermarket ones are very hit/miss and not worth the savings.
Another option is to just wait for the code. Another thought is to at least pull the OCV screen on the back bank and check it, and pull the OCV itself and and clean the solenoid plunger body with carb cleaner to try to equalize and synchronize the action between the new and the old.
What you describe is just not unusual, a critical symmetric v-engine component being swapped and then a bank imbalance resulting.
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Ok, got it fixed, a little more detail. Before I went to make the video I swapped out the wrong vvt for the correct one and changed the oil. Both screens were cleaned too.
Also need to mention that prior to that (last week), I had forced compressed air through both of the vvt openings, which made the oil really dirty. (The oil was changed about a month ago and had hardly been driven because of the issues.) Since the oil was so dirty, I figure sludge somewhere got cleared out with the compressed air.
Only other thing was the oil pressure switch...blew that seal with the compressed air, too. Had my oil light flickering.
So, went to make the video and the sound was gone and all the codes were gone too.
If any codes come back I will update.
Thank you for the help! This place is great!!
Also need to mention that prior to that (last week), I had forced compressed air through both of the vvt openings, which made the oil really dirty. (The oil was changed about a month ago and had hardly been driven because of the issues.) Since the oil was so dirty, I figure sludge somewhere got cleared out with the compressed air.
Only other thing was the oil pressure switch...blew that seal with the compressed air, too. Had my oil light flickering.
So, went to make the video and the sound was gone and all the codes were gone too.
If any codes come back I will update.
Thank you for the help! This place is great!!
Last edited by ajswep; 07-17-18 at 11:49 AM.
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