Brownd3max

Changing the oil & filter on my newly-acquired ES300: After letting it sit draining into the oil pan for quite a long while, once it stopped dripping, I went to remove the filter. This filter is on a horizontal canted angle on the side of the block, and as soon as I slowly broke it loose, it spilled oil down on everything below! Having owned 7 past Toyotas, this is my first one with the filter stupidly mounted to guarantee a big mess! Wtf? Any tips for minimizing this next time? TIA!

LeX2K

What Toyota's did you have that did not have this so called problem? It's easy to deal with after filter removal spray down the area with brake cleaner. Done.

Brownd3max

'77 Landcruiser,'94 Corolla,'99 4Runner, 2000 Landcruiser, '06 Highlander, '08 RAV4, '12 Venza, and this one. Problem? No. Irritation? Yes.

crwys

Its honestly never bothered me. After draining the pan I just move the oil catcher beneath the filter so no mess on the ground. It does get on the engine though but meh

Organized Garage Status

My GX is the same way. It's always gonna spill on the sway bar since its directly below it. But hey, I engine wash my cars every time I wash them.

Oro

This is by a good margin the messiest filter on any car that I've ever had.

What I have learned to do is three fold to minimize the mess:

a) I split open a large trash bag and spread it out under the car.
b) I stuff several paper towels in the drain ring under the filter.
c) I stick a few paper towels on the edge of the belly pan under the filter.

This will catch it all and not leave a huge mess. Besides wiping down the filter mount area, wipe down the lip of the belly pan too as oil will collect inside it and drip out later.

If you want to let it drain a long time, take the filter off first as the drain back valve in it is holding oil in the galley passages from there to the top of the head. Take it off first so they drain, too.

Honestly I don't think long drain intervals are hugely beneficial; I had the oil pan off recently to re-seal it and when level, it holds at least 4 or 5 ounces below the drain hole and you have to tilt it 45 degrees to get it empty (I tested it on my work bench for giggles). Waiting a long time for the last ounce or two isn't going to matter with all that retained in the pan IMO. Jacking the front as high as practical given your jack and stands would help with this, obviously.

acarapella

Hey guys,

ive done about 240,000 of maintenance with the oil filter there over a few cars, and yes, it sucks badly, but here are some tips.

If the car is jacked too much in the front, it messes up the flow of the oil and it hits stuff, obviously everyone doesn't have a lift, including me, but raise the front, support with jack stands, then throw your jack under the rear frame nubby-thinger and "level" the car. Use the little "tray" under and to the passenger side of the oil filter to set it and let it drain; do this before anything else. Ideally, with the car level and the oil filter draining in that little tray, the stream of oil will end up not to far from where the drain plug is in the oil pay.


Get your self a good, large oil bucket. Those little ones suck. I think i paid $15 for mine about 15 years ago and they've only gotten cheaper. ITs probably 24" wide and is covered. The top is like a funnel that drains into the bottom, and then you drain the whole thing into your waste jug, or throw it right (on a tarp) into your trunk and bring it somewhere to empty it.

they also sell these things that look like giant cookie sheets. about $10 at Walmart. Great for drips. Not needed if you do what I said above

Superman60

I just use brake clean and clean any areas that get oil on them.

speedkar9

Your not the only one to hate the 1MZ/3MZ filter design. Really bad spot underneath the exhaust!

wmj259

I have been doing this for my honda element.
Taking a plastic milk jug container, and cutting with a razor blade it so it slides underneath the oil filter. then it can pour into the oil catch pan away from the car frame.

Oro

I recently started using a Fram XG3614 (Fram Ultra) for two OCIs so I could halve the time I spend messing with this overly annoying issue. I was worried about the time not because of the filter element holding up, but because of the exhaust and cat heat working on the silicone ADBV. But in 15k it never gave me a dry start that I could detect, unlike MANY other filter makes (I'm looking your way in particular, Motorcraft/Purolator...). You could probably also get away with this with a Mobil 1 filter, but the Fram has higher filtration specs, and stouter media (full synthetic vs. blend in Mobil 1).

I cut one open after 15k miles and posted mid-last year about it at Bitog. It was in impressive shape inside and could likely have gone a third 7.5k oil run, easily, even being baked in the 1MZ. I was very impressed.

HomerJay

I liked your earlier feedback regarding Fram Ultra filters and have since used them in multiple vehicles. I also noticed the weight of the Ultra is heavier than some OE filters, while not a scientific study would lead me to believe a good indication of the overall quality.

Oro

Thanks. The crowd at BITOG just LOVES that filter and I got on board with it after studying the issues and then applying some small-level testing myself (listening for ADBV failure/dry starts, cutting it open to inspect). I guess something else that should be said is, "what about the old oil in the filter? What about leaving that in there?"

That wasn't something I was excited about, so I researched the pros/cons. I mean, you could take the filter off (so you have all the hassles), and thus drain the galleys and then drain the filter, and re-install it. I have been a long-time user of BITOG and tried to follow carefully the real scientists there who discuss machinery and automotive lubrication. I try to read and understand (sometimes succeed) the underlying engineering and chemical white papers they discuss and debate and link to. The consensus on this issue I gleaned was a)It won't hurt, and b) it may actually be a GOOD idea. Good idea? What?

There was a study that implied switching oils completely wasn't good because the new oil was chemically different enough (even if identical brand/batch) vs the used oil that it initially would strip away the immediate on-metal boundary lubrication the old oil had laid down. Then it would have to lay down it's own new layer, which would slowly chemically alter as the oil was used and changed slightly. Then when you change the oil again, you repeat the stripping and re-application instead of constantly maintaining that critical boundary layer that provides cold start protection. So wear actually accelerated immediately after an oil change, then slowed back down. Totally counter-intuitive. This is (relatively) new work and not wholly embraced or disseminated yet. Some empirical data backs it up, because fleets who do long oil changes and regular oil analysis get lower wear with longer changes. There is data for this. As to the chemistry about it being good to leave a little used oil in; I can't evaluate it. But that some serious professionals regard it as credible, I do respect.

So, once I was comfortable with that analysis, I was willing to leave the Ultra on 15k miles w/o removing it on the ES. Previously, on my SUV, I would remove the filter and drain it, then re-use it (it's very easy to get at and low-mess removal on that vehicle). It's a learning process of getting comfortable with new, better oils and better understanding of the chemistry and overall process. It flies against what most of us over 30 or 35 have always been told, so it can be difficult to accept at first.

HomerJay

Very interesting, I need to visit BITOG more often. Changing the oil filter every other oil change is not a new concept to me, when I started to work on my car in the mid 70's, it was a common practice. Although I enjoy the text book analysis, I wonder how much of a difference it makes in practice? Moreover, at the next oil change you would use 5 qts of fresh oil with the filter change (I could not imagine purposely adding old oil to fresh!). Also considering oil gets contaminated by blow-by and condensation, (especially when driven infrequently in the winter) I feel it makes sense for me to change/drain the filter at each oil change. Thanks again for sharing.