Front Stabilizer Link questions
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Front Stabilizer Link questions
I replaced both front stabilizer links due to the rubber grease boots failing
Here are my questions:
1. Does toyota stamp all their parts with numbers? The ones i removed had no stamping on the metal. The only numbers i could find where on the grease boots - NOK ER0695M0. I ask because my replacement links were not OEM so I have no reference point. Am curious if the ones I pulled were aftermarket.
2. The ball/socket on the ones I installed where extremely tight. Could not be moved with your hand. The ones I took off, you could grab the ball and rotate it fairly freely in the socket all though they were NOT sloppy in the socket. Is this another way to tell if the links have failed?
3. I proceeded to check the rear links. The grease boots are intact. The links could be moved fairly easy side to side - meaning they follow the ball contour when moved left/right but when I tried to pull on them away from the socket (in & out) they were tight, NOT sloppy. Are these worn out due to the moving side to side? I do not have a clunking sound in the rear.
As a side note, when removing the old ones, I use PB penetrant, soaked 20 minutes and three of the four nuts came off. The last one (of course...) fought me, so out came the torch. 45 seconds of heat, and off it came easily.
I jacked/jack standed one side at a time. This put pressure on the sway bar thus the link. I had to jack the opposite side slightly to relieve the pressure on the sway bar to pull out the link. I did not want to just beat it out with a hammer. FYI
Here are my questions:
1. Does toyota stamp all their parts with numbers? The ones i removed had no stamping on the metal. The only numbers i could find where on the grease boots - NOK ER0695M0. I ask because my replacement links were not OEM so I have no reference point. Am curious if the ones I pulled were aftermarket.
2. The ball/socket on the ones I installed where extremely tight. Could not be moved with your hand. The ones I took off, you could grab the ball and rotate it fairly freely in the socket all though they were NOT sloppy in the socket. Is this another way to tell if the links have failed?
3. I proceeded to check the rear links. The grease boots are intact. The links could be moved fairly easy side to side - meaning they follow the ball contour when moved left/right but when I tried to pull on them away from the socket (in & out) they were tight, NOT sloppy. Are these worn out due to the moving side to side? I do not have a clunking sound in the rear.
As a side note, when removing the old ones, I use PB penetrant, soaked 20 minutes and three of the four nuts came off. The last one (of course...) fought me, so out came the torch. 45 seconds of heat, and off it came easily.
I jacked/jack standed one side at a time. This put pressure on the sway bar thus the link. I had to jack the opposite side slightly to relieve the pressure on the sway bar to pull out the link. I did not want to just beat it out with a hammer. FYI
#2
Lexus Fanatic
I don't recall seeing the OE parts with markings or numbers on them. New links should be very tight obviously the more they wear in the looser they get, I've had links that were very loose but not get making any noise. I replaced them anyway. Unless the rear ones are clunking I'd leave them alone.
It is possible Sankei 555 makes the links for Toyota/Lexus but I can't confirm. The Sankei parts do look very similar although they usually stamped 555.
It is possible Sankei 555 makes the links for Toyota/Lexus but I can't confirm. The Sankei parts do look very similar although they usually stamped 555.
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Update:
2 1/2 + years on these aftermarket stabilizer links. I actually purchased all four corners with Beck Arnley from Rock Auto. Have had to re-torque the nuts twice since install. Last time was this past weekend. The ball sockets still remain stiff on all but the grease boots have begun weeping on all.
2 1/2 + years on these aftermarket stabilizer links. I actually purchased all four corners with Beck Arnley from Rock Auto. Have had to re-torque the nuts twice since install. Last time was this past weekend. The ball sockets still remain stiff on all but the grease boots have begun weeping on all.
#4
Lexus Champion
Grease sometimes naturally breaks down and the oil separates. The grease boots aren't 100% oil proof. If the links were greasable it would be a good idea to flush out the old grease with new one.
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fortitude (10-06-18)
#5
Pole Position
If the links were greasable it would be a good idea to flush out the old grease with new one.
When I buy replacement suspension parts, I always make sure to get greasable ones and then squeeze in a little every year or so, when I am rotating tires or doings something else in the area. It is kinda "old school" but it makes a difference in the long run.
The following users liked this post:
fortitude (10-06-18)
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