I have a 2002 es 300. Is there a standard change interval for the transmission fluid and transmission filter?
Thank you

 

I think as long as you do a drain and fill every 30k your fine. I've never replaced a filter in any car I've ever had, but that's just me.

 

Your book should tell you. My 99 is every 15k.

 

Most people will put in a complete fresh fill (eg., ~11qts), then just do a drain fill every 30k (~3.75 qts). Maybe 50k if using synthetic atf and not mineral oil.

If you are unsure of history, I'd add some SeaFoam (aka "TransTune" - same stuff) for a day or so to pre-clean, then flush all the fluid via the cooler line:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...lush-pics.html

Mag1 synthetic ATF and Castrol multi-vehicle synth. are good T-IV alternatives. MaxLife is a tad thinner and closer to WS vs. T-IV, but works well, too.

I found the known hard downshift fault on this year/model to be greatly reduced by cleaning up w/SeaFoam, synthetic fluid, and replacing broken motor mounts (upper torque strut/dog bone and front center are the two culprits that break). These can be really long-lived transmissions with maintenance. A prof. Toyota mechanic I've followed says not to mess with filters unless you have clear signs of problems. He says he's never found one needing changing and skips it unless a problem presents. I believe that is a reasonable approach on these Aisins (not on all transmissions of course).

Consider doing your PS fluid at the same time w/your left over atf:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ce-needed.html

 

Are the 2004 E330 different on the interval changes. All it says is to check it. I have changed my VW Rialta(eurovan) every 50k(fluid and filter) and my '10 f150 at 100k. It looks much easier on the lexus as it has a drain plug and fill tube. I have 110 so I was at least going to do a partial fluid change a couple times this month to get out most the old stuff.


Mark> 2004 E330

 

I would only use Toyota ATF that is recommended for your car.
The interval I personally use is every 15K but I am not sure what your cars interval is.
Drain and fill only no flushing as that could cause other issues.

 

Wow, every 15k? Most ATF is rated for 100k or more at normal temps. I did mine every 50k on my VW RV, but that tranny pulled a 6k plus vehicle and the transmissions on those were prone to early failure.


Is there an issue with our Trannies(04 plus)? Do you do your filter also? We(VW Rialta people) always used Max-life as it was approved and never failed any of us. It looks like MLife is approved four ours also(Type T-IV)


Thanks for the Info, Mark>

 

No, it's the same transmission. I think in 2004 it came factory-filled with WS (lighter, semi-synth. fluid) but it is the same with no internal differences. Lots of people have issues with not being able to get the Toyota specified mileage out of WS. Drain and fill a few times (3 is the common number) works but wastes a gallon of fluid to still only get about 80% changed vs. the cooler line method. But it's still a very solid technique.

MaxLife is technically not "approved" as Valvoline didn't take it to Aisin and pay to have them test it to their 3309 specs, or re-formulate it to meet the minutiae. They do "recommend" it for T-IV applications and it very widely used in place of T-IV in Toyota, Volvos, and GM applications. It is also used in place of WS, too. Neither of those are full synthetics and can't do the really long drain intervals Toyota tries to claim they can (marketing/accounting BS imo).

 

I am going to drop by my local Toyota shop today to see what the t-4 goes for. If it is close, I will just use it. The reason I switched to Maxlife on my VW was it used Pentosin and that stuff was Down right out of this world expensive!! I am not hard on my cars and figure a couple 80% changes will do just fine. I would like to drop the pan to change the filter and inspect the pan for debri.

 

^ per quart its $5.95 at my toyota dealer, and $7.35 at my Lexus dealer. I'm there so much though that if the person I normally deal with is at the counter, I pay $4.50 a quart.

 

Since day one I own this ES ( 15 yrs), I do drain and fill at around 25-30k miles and alternate the next cycle with flush. When I did last transmission drain and fill (235k miles), I changed the filter as well. The fluid remained cherry red and no metal particles on the magnets. At next cycle around 260k, I will do the flush.

 

No, the drain/fill techniqe is not 80% each time, it's about 39%. Just so you understand.

It's not the cost that drives people away from T-IV, it's just that it's a 20-year old fluid design that has been massively improved upon by more modern petroleum engineering delivered at the same or lower cost.

satiger - that's a smart routine and I might consider that going forward myself. We are also up to 235k on ours and that might suit it better.

 

Thanks for the clarification Oro!! I have been cramming a lot of info in my cranium over the last few days and will tend to confuse a few facts.


So in your opinion, what is the best ATF to use? If I do a few fill and drain,(30%ish) can I mix Maxlife with the existing T4 or would you just use T4 since it isn't that much more. Walmart does carry the 4qt jugs of maxlife for around $16.99, which makes it easier to do a few back to back fill and drains over a couple weeks time.

I would like to do the other method with the hoses, but since it is just me with no help, I will have to do some more research.


Mark> 2004 ES330


PS> I do really appreciate all the help

 

was the pan gasket a simple swapout or did you need to use the new gasket with a permatex type sealant?

 

It is really easy to do the coolant flush solo.

Set the "pump out" capture jug on the left side of the car 3' to the left. Since the coolant hoses join on the LF side of the radiator, this is easy.Even solo, you can watch the fluid pump out into your capture jar from the driver's seat. Pre-mark a milk jug with 1 qt, 2qt, etc. markings. You can do this easy solo. Turn off the car when it hits your pre-mark 1.5 qt mark and it will finish at 2qt. ( more pumps out as the units spin down). Re-fill 2qts, empty your capture jug, keep repeating. The first time I did this I sweated the details and read, re-read, then did it and it was very clear and simple in execution.

I don't mean to "shame you" if you don't want to do the cooler line flush; if you don't feel up to it, don't do it. Do a few drain/fills and hey, you wasted $20/$40 bucks. Big deal vs. messing something up or feeling really sketchy and worried. Don't do it if you don't feel comfortable. Learn in steps and get comfortable to do bigger things later.

As to what is the "best" fluid? There isn't a "best" - BUT - any compatible synthetic is going to be MUCH better than mineral T-IV. See my posts above about good synthetic fluids. If you have a Walmart nearby with Maxlife, it is damn hard to beat at $17/gallon. I do really like Mag1 synth at $36/6qts delivered from Amazon prime. The visc. is closer to T-IV, though arguments about shear rates make it difficult to dismiss MaxLife as perfectly suitable. If you can catch Catrol or QS multi synth. on sale, that's good, too.

Just servicing the AT is good step. Too many ignore it. If you decide to use T-IV you are still in the 95th percentile or better.

I am going to again stress, if you you are contemplating a fluid change in a working AT, put in the recommended amount of SeaFoam a day or up to a week before the change. The high volatility VHC's will clean solenoid and valve body varnish and start to improve performance. It will effectively perform 80% of the work of of a fluid change ahead of time. You can then dump out the varnish with your old fluid, instead of waiting for your new fluid to clean it up, load up with it, and carry it in suspension and weaken the film strength and depth of your new fluid fill. I have used it to demonstrable effect on many transmissions. I have prior used it to keep motorcycle carbs working to peak for decades. Decades. It works as advertised with no ill effects. I wish they paid me to promote it; but they don't.