Faraaz23

Hey guys, I'm wondering if any of you have had this problem.... after i drive the car... even for just 5 or 10 minutes, i get out and i smell a burning smell.... smells like burnt oil or burnt rubber. I don't think its spilt oil from an oil change because it did it before the previous oil change and now afterwards for months its just getting worse and worse. Its to the point that when i pull it in the garage, the fumes even travel into the inside of the cabin. We had the oil valve gasket replaced at 76,000 miles and we thought that'd solve it but one year later the leak doesn't seem to be there, but the smell is. Anyone else have a similar problem or experience with this? Thanks.

Baby Lex

You know what? I have the SAME problem! I thought it would pass. Sometimes it's there, sometimes not. I've notice and "think" it happens when the heater is turned all the way to "hot". But then again I could be wrong. I had a CV joint replaced and the broken one did leave a greasy mess, maybe that's why? When it heats up? It sure does smell. I dunno. I'm stumped as you. Anyone else have any insight?

rukarims

yeah...i have the same smell in my car. I took my car to LExus Dealer today to get a tune-up and the mechanic was telling me the smeel comes from the buring oil. Our Head oil gasket is leaking so while we are driving it drips on the exhuast manifold. And since the manifold is hot it burns the oil. I got an estimate to get my oil leak fixed and it came out to be around $450.

jaymode

this seems to be a common problem with the es300's. These seals wear out at about 100,000 miles. Mine was pretty bad at about 140,000. I had the valve cover and oil pan gaskets replaced, then two weeks later the cam seals and rear main seal started leaking. The only real solution is to have them replaced. Another feasible solution, that may lessen the amount being burned/leaked out is to use a oil like that quaker state for engines over 75,000 miles, vavloline maxlife, and others that have a special ingredient to recondition seals. Also moving to a thicker oil will also help. Do not use synthetic, youll leak more. A thicker viscosity oil will stay in more, but only use it during the summer unless it does not get very cold where you live in the winter.

Baby Lex

Well mine went out too early. I only have a few miles over 60,000. Can you give a list of the seals including ones that may need replacing later. That way I can do all of it at once?

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

this may be a really simple answer but
why not get an engine shampoo
if there is grease on the trany for instance it takes time to heat up
as compared to an engine part like the block
once hot voila that great smell also the heater air intake is at the base of the winsheild
the little black shroud with the holes
actually has a purpose ( so if you have snow build up clean it off )

soo if you get it cleaned up the smell should go or at the very least be less noticable

Faraaz23

yea that sounds like it'd work, unless there is an actual leak somewhere.

jaymode

You seriously do not want to have all of those seals replaced at once unless you have another method of transportation and gobs of money unless you are doing it yourself then have lost of time. I think it might just be better to find a new engine, I think if you look around one can be had for about 3k , which is pretty much worth it. Rear main seal 700-900 Vavle Cover Gaskets -350-450 Oil Pan Gasket 100-200 Head Gasket- price unkown probably like 500 Cam Seals -250-350 plus others. That is like 2k right there.

Baby Lex

Holy macarol! That much?? You think it's a real problem if I don't address the issue, such as like cheking the oil now and then or something like that?

jaymode

what do you have leaking? also how much are you loosing on average? and if you dont mind you lexus smoking then yea you could just check it now and then, but if your rear main seal is leaking and that goes you could blow the engine.
I would try running some of that quaker state oil for cars over 75,000 and maybe moving up to an oil like 10w40 in the summer. That should help slow down the loss of oil.

meZoom!

If you don't think you'll keep your car for toooo long, try switching between regular and synthetic motor oil helps any. a relatively "cheap" fix for those who don't want to fix it.

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

maybe it is me but i like 0-30 in the winter for oil and
5-50 summer all synthetic mobil 1
i prefer to have something thick when hot in the summer
to keep the friction down also helps with coating seals nicely
i am a real nut though

skperformance

iTrader: (6)

the synthetic should actually help the seals seal better
but to help the leak change viscosity to something thicker
like a 10-40 instead
also there are products sold that will help rubber seals expand to preserve them longer and seal again of course

steviej

iTrader: (1)

keep in mind with varying the oil viscosities......you are merely treating the symptom and not the cause.


sj

PES300

oil leaks
I recently found oil sipping out slowly from the bottom of the distributor. It is caused by the O ring. Changing it is ver simple . It will take you about $ 4.00 and half an hour.

The valve cover gasket should not cost that much and it should not be that difficult as long as you know how to remove the fuel rail and the intake and I thing it is a very much DIY job . I am trying to get the two volume factory service manual( I shall appreciate is anyone has a used copy for sale) I have a 93 model. Even if you take it to a mechanic it should not cost more than $150
If you do the head gaskets you might as well do everthing altogether like cam seals except for the rear main seal ( this could be tricky not in the sense of difficulty but workmanship)
all the other jobs together should not be more than $600 . But it will cost you a lot if you do it separately.