3mz-fe torque specs for timing belt job.
 

Can anyone tell me the torque specs for the 3mz-fe;

Water Pump
Idler pulley
Tensioner pulley
Hydraulic tensioner
Crankshaft pulley bolt

I've searched through the forums and web but can't find a exact specs :(

Also, should I use silicone with the water pump gasket that came with the kit?

Thanks!

What kit do you have? The OEM kit does not come with or require sealant on the gasket, and you should not use any. I don't know about after market, what does the gasket look like, is it aluminum with a black bead of sealant built in?

Here are the specs:

https://i.imgur.com/EN2TCyc.png

Ahhhh exactly what I need, thanks!

And I bought the Aisin kit off ebay for $198. Includes Aisin water pump and metal gasket, Koyo idler and tensioner, mitsuboshi timing belt, NTN hydraulic tensioner, and stone seals.

I've also included a stant thermostat and 2 gallons of pink super long life. For some reason, the car came with red coolant.

Should be a productive weekend :D

You will likely need a stud extractor kit to remove the water pump, something to keep in mind. How do you plan on removing the camshaft seals?

I have an external torx socket set to remove those PITA studs :)

And depending on the condition of the seals, I may not touch them until the
next timing belt change. If I have to, I've seen people use the "Screw" trick to remove
the old seals and used a PVC pipe fitting to install the new seals.

Hopefully, I won't have to go down that route....

Be careful not to break the end of the studs off, I've never been able to get them off without using a stud extractor the tip of the stud always breaks off for me. What is your mileage? If you find even a hint of oil around the seals then probably best just to replace them.

I prefer using a small machine screw to remove the seals, I bought a cordless angle drill just for this purpose. Good luck with the job.

Oh the memories of when I was doing my 3MZ timing belt!
Followed that manual a little too closely not realizing my torque wrench was in ft-lb instead of in-lb :egads:.....

Not to scare you, good luck on your timing belt job!

For the studs, I skipped around that by removing the front cam pulley and six bolts holding timing belt cover #3 on, slid it up and was able to wriggle off the waterpump.

I remember your thread, it still scars me to this day thinking about that lol. I would totally freak if something like that happened to me, that's why i'm very adamant of finding the exact torque specs.

When I did the timing belt on my 1mz, I was considering the route of removing the timing belt back cover to remove the water pump, but couldn't figure out how to break the cam pulley bolts free.

How did you go about removing the cam pulley bolts?

I was able to break the studs free on my '97 ES that had 160K with the external torx bit and a pair of vice grips, hopefully I will be able to do the same on my Es330 which has 128K.

The reason why i'm not doing the seals right away is because I don't have the 'Special' tool to remove the cam pulley bolts. Also, i'm not too familiar with removing such a component so hopefully they won't need replacing until the next timing belt change.

Is there any other way of breaking the cam pulley bolts free with the tool?

I'm starting on my TB job this weekend, have all the parts sitting in the garage right now. I have stud pullers, and a new stubby right-angle cordless drill, I plan to replace ALL the seals as well. As for getting the cam pulleys off, I have a pile of scrap steel and a welder waiting, I will be making the tool to hold the pulleys.

I used the old trick of holding a long socket on the 10mm bolt holding timing cover #3 through the spokes of the cam pulley. The socket stops the cam pulley from turning while you break the bolt loose with your breaker bar.

https://imageshack.com/a/img801/5839/6qft.jpg

I actually bought one of those "Cam pulley holder" tools but I couldn't get a decent grip on the pulley for it to break loose.

Which leads me to another question... how are you planning on removing the crank pulley bolt? I tried the bump-start method over and over with no luck, and ended up getting a 3/4" drive impact to take that sucker out.

You have a spare car right? This experience was half the reason I bought my Solara....:D

We tried that "socket on the 10mm bolt head" trick when my brother and I were doing the timing belt in his '05 Highlander. Yah... we sheared that bolt head right off. And the cam bolt was still tight as ever.

The bump-start method didn't work for you, huh? I'm assumimg the breaker bar kept jumping off the bolt? I usually rope tie my breaker bar down to the lower control arm and frame so that sucker has no where to go :D

If I can break those cam pulley bolts free, I will most certainly change those seals. After reading KLF's post, i'm a little sketchy on the 10mm socket method.
Check out this "special" tool someone created.
Have you ever heard of the "timing belt screwed to a block of wood method"? It looks promising I may give that a try.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MRSPcelCFa...600/step13.jpg

Now the valve covers doesn't have to be removed to replace the seals, right? After I remove the seals, how do I go about installing them? Are they like a lego and just 'pop' right in?

Any tips on removing the rear bank seal?

Unfortunely, my dad is 'borrowing' my 3es so I don't have any other vehicle at the moment.

You don't have to remove the valve covers, although doing so makes it extremely easy to remove the seals. Pop off the cam bearing and the seal comes right out. To remove the seal on the firewall side, not much room to work so an angle drill is your friend, carefully drill a small hole in the seal casing and thread in a small machine screw. I like to use a nail puller, but you can use pliers or large side cutters to pull the seal out. Some people like to use a seal puller tool, I'm not crazy about them because they can scratch the camshaft.

To install the seal, you can get a seal installer tool but I don't have one. I take both of the old cam seals and tape them together, the one that contacts the new seal I turn it around so it's facing backwards of what it normally would be. I then use a hole saw (with the drill bit removed) and use that along with the cam bolt, threading the bolt pushes the seal in place perfectly. You may have to use the crankshaft seal (they are the same inner diameter) to get the required depth to get the seal to press in all the way.

To remove the cam bolts, easiest way by far in an impact, those bolts are 100% dry so they can be difficult to remove. If you put a breaker bar on the bolt, then strike the bar with something large and heavy like a solid pipe, that can work well. A cam holder tool is great if you have a good one, the one I have bent the first time I used it so I found it basically useless. I've used the timing belt to hold the cams, but not on the 1MZ/3MZ engine I could not get enough holding power out of the timing belt. The piece of wood trick might work though.

Very informative information, thank you.

So when i'm installing the new seals, do I press them in the camshaft/crankshaft until they're all the way in the camshaft/crankshaft? Or is there a certain depth they have to be installed in the camshaft/crankshaft?

I have access to an angle drill at my maintenance shop, so that's one check off the list.

I'm considering of making my own seal installer tool out of a PVC pipe a couple inches in length and the same diameter of the cam seals. Despite the crankseal being a little bigger in diameter, i'm assuming I will be able to use my fabricated tool to install the crankseal also.

Instead of using a hole saw, i'm thinking of using a giant washer from my work to thread the seal with the cam/crank bolt.

What do you think of my ideas?

Your thinking is solid. A PVC pipe is fine, same with a large washer. Whatever allows you to safely (meaning no damage) press in the seal is fine. The seals get pressed in all the way until they bottom out on the bore, there is no specific depth they get pressed in and then you stop.

The hardest part is getting the seal go start going in straight. At any point when pressing them, if the seal starts going in more than a little bit crooked, stop and try again.

Thank you for all the info, Lexus2000.

I started on my timing belt job today, but everything came to a halt when trying to remove the
crankshaft pulley bolt.

That sucker is on there good and can't remove it!

I've tried the bump-start method, thinking that it would easily break free like my 1MZ did, but to no avail. Not surprised it didn't, considering other people's experience with them.

I've also tried an impact gun on the crank bolt, but that wasn't enough to break it free either!

I am stumpped on how to remove this bolt. I was considering of buying the special tool to hold
the crank pulley and in hopes to break the bolt free with a breaker bar. However, the grease monkeys
at the garage said that I could potentially snapp the tooth if I did it this way. Is this true?

Does anyone have any advice for me? I'm pretty desperate lol.

Does anyone have any experience with the special crank pulley tool?

Check this diagram for the torque specs

Attachment 428226

Stubborn pulley bolts can be a real problem. Whatever you do, do NOT round off the bolt head or you will be in a world of hurt. I have never seen a crank pulley holder that is strong enough when the bolt is on that tight, the holder bolts threading into the balancer just sheer right off like nothing.

Another method is to remove the starter and put a pry bar or something in the teeth of the flex plate, I've had success with this. But if you don't have a tool that happens to be just the right side, it won't work.

My advice, take it somewhere that has experience and a big impact gun, the bolt should come off for them right away. Heating the bolt with oxy/acetylene is another option, but I have never tried this I don't like using excessive heat.

BTW Toyota makes a specific tool for holding the pulley, that would probably work for you.

I'm in the middle of my timing belt job right now ('05 ES330, 93K miles, actually starting to put things back together). A few tips/observations:

* I actually started out by removing the intake plenum and all the spark plugs. I planned to change the plugs anyway, and having the plugs out makes it much easier to spin the crank.

* Be sure to heed the warnings in the FSM about spinning the crank CCW about 60d before you remove the timing belt. The cams have a tendency to suddenly spring backwards, and if the pistons are at TDC when they do this, you can bend valves. :egads:

* My crank bolt popped right off with my impact gun, no problem. :woot: Even if you do manage to get it off, you need something to hold the pulley for re-assembly, so you can apply the 162 ft-lbs required. I made a simple tool out of a piece of flat plate with a couple of tubes welded on, if I get a chance I'll post a pic later of it in use. I've used it at least 4 times now on other cars, always worked great.

* I also had no trouble getting those long studs out of the water pump with the Torx socket. :woot:

* I was pleasantly surprised to be able to not only get the cam pulleys off, but also get my cam seals replaced. It's a good thing I did because the front seal was weeping oil. It was easier than I thought, but probably because I was thoroughly prepared. I made a very stout cam sprocket holding tool yesterday and worked perfectly. The other thing that saved the day was my new Makita BDA350 right-angle drill.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...fL._SX385_.jpg

I already have a large assortment of Makita LXT tools and batteries, so all I had to buy was the bare tool, and it was worth it. I was able to easily sneak this drill in and CAREFULLY drill a 3/32" hole in the cam seal, then barely start a 1" long #6 sheet metal screw into the hole, and pull out the seal with pliers. Worked perfect.

* I also made seal drivers out of 1-1/2" PVC pipe. For the cams, I used a pipe cap with a slice of pipe cemented in, then I drilled a 1/2" hole in the cap, got a big fender washer and an M12x1.25x40 bolt out my bin (I think it's an old brake caliper bolt). A little grease on the new seal, slide it on, then the driver, and gently crank in the bolt until it "seats" the seal flush with the head.

* For the crankshaft, I got a coupling, added a slice of pipe on one side so it was flush with the end of the coupling, then I put another piece of pipe in the other end of the coupling so the driver was about 3" long. I did have to grind the inside of the pipe out just a tiny bit. Then similar to the cam seals, I used the crank bolt to "push" the seal home until it was perfectly flush with the oil pump housing. Took only a few minutes using stuff I already had here.

* Take a zip tie and tie back that pesky PS hose at the rear cam so it's out of the way.

Back at it, hope to have the car back on the road in the morning.

Here's a couple crappy cell phone shots of my crank holding tool:

Posted from ClubLexus.com App for Android

EDIT: Speaking of crappy, what's with this app that won't let you post a photo? I'll try later when I can D/L the photos to my laptop.

Thanks for the added info. Lexus200 and all of you's.

I ended up putting my car back together and drove to my work where we have an
industrial size air compressor.

Hooked the impact gun up to the crank pulley bolt and VOILA, the bolt spun off like butter!

Turns out that my little 10 gallon air compressor didn't have enough juice to spin off the bolt.
It couldn't even twist my nipple if i even tried lol.

Anyway, i ended up just adding a little grease to the bolt and installed it back on.
I'll tackle the timing belt next weekend when I have more free time.

This will also give me more time to get a hold of an angle drill and also fabricate a crank pulley
holder.

I have access to a bridgeport, welder and a whole mess of scrap metal, so i'll be making my
own "special tool" for the crank pulley.

It's good to hear that your timing belt job is going smoothly, unlike my weekend experience haha.

How did you break free your cam bolts?

The picture of your homemade tool is not showing up :(

So I don't think I'll be able to obtain an angle drill to do the cam\crank seals...

I'm considering of renting a seal puller from autozone.

Does anyone have any experience with these seal pullers?

Had to download the photos from my phone to my computer so I could upload them here.

Here's my cam pulley holding tool. The first photo is the business end of the tool, it is made out of 1/4" x 1-1/4" bar stock. I took a pair of Grade 8 7/16" bolts and cut the threaded parts off, welded them into the stock to create 2 stout pins. This is essentially how the SST tool works. The second photo shows the tool in position, breaking the front cam bolt loose. Worked like a charm!

Note: it is essential that you rotate the crank 60deg CCW before messing with the cams! As soon as you turn the cam pulleys, they will want to "kick" due to valve spring pressure. If this happens with the crank at TDC, you may bend valves!

And here is my crank holding tool. Just a chunk of flat plate, with a big hole large enough for the 21mm socket to go through, then a pair of smaller hole with support tubes welded on. I use a pair of grade 10.2 bolts to bolt it to the crank pulley, then brace the plate against the frame rail.

A few day's late on my posts...

So I ended up finishing my timing belt job last weekend. Disassembled the car friday night
and finished everything up Saturday evening. All and all, it took me about 8+ hours to replace the timing belt,
water pump, idler, hydraulic tensioner and pulley, and crank seal.


However, I was unable to replace the cam seals... :(

Those bolts are on so freakin' tight!
None of the tools i've made could do any justice
to those bolts. The cam pulley tool I made at work snapped into two pieces. Probably from
poor quality metal.
The "timing belt screwed to a block of wood" tool could not hold the pulley either.
I ended up tearing the sheet rock screws out of the 2x4 used for the tool. The second attempt
just split the old timing belt in half lol.

I'm not too concerned about the cam seals though. If they start to leak, it will give me an excuse
to replace timing belt again. Hopefully, i'll have the SST tool by the time that comes around.

Check out the photo below. It appears as if all the components were original to the car.
Along with the brown dust coating everything, the timing belt formed a "Groove" on the idler pulley.
It wasn't in the best of shape either, considering the idler pulley had some play in it.
Water pump says "toyota" on it also.

'twas a fun day it was

Glad you managed to get the timing belt job done.

How many miles did the car have?

Did you use a torque wrench on the idler, tensioner and water pump bolts?

And how did you manage to remove the water pump without removing timing cover # 3 (since you couldn't take the cams off)?? Did you actually remove those stubborn studs?

The car has 128K.
According to the carfax, the car has had a rigorous maintenance history
with the dealership, but no indication if the timing belt has ever been replaced.

I'm just relieved to finally get the timing belt out of the way, it was hard to drive a car knowing
that it could potentially break any day now lol.

And yes, an inch-pound and foot-pound torque wrench were used in the job, along with all the
proper torque specs. Like I said, i'm still scarred by your little mis-happen mentioned in your
previous thread haha. I had to of check the torque specs of everything at least three times to
be certain that everything was properly torqued.

Although I ran into stubborn crank and cam bolts, the water pump studs surprisingly didn't
give me too much trouble. I was able to remove both studs with an external torx socket and quarter inch ratchet.
Though it took me almost 15 minutes to remove both studs, I didn't want to risk snapping
the heads off, so I took my time with them.

Before installing, I greased up all the stubborn bolts and studs so they will be easier to remove
on the next timing belt change (hopefully)

:woot:

Mine had 180Km (114K miles). I had the brown dust everywhere just like yours.

Was your water-pump leaking or weeping?

How did you torque down the crank bolt?

No kidding.

Besides all the brown dust, the belt looked okay. Looked like it could of lasted more miles.

My waterpump was fine, no leaks anywhere whatsoever. Though the tensioner shown signs
of very little leaking oil.

I was surprised of the condition of the idler pulley. Not only did the pulley have play, but timing belt
worn a "groove" into the pulley. It had to of been original. As a matter of fact, i'm assuming everything
was original to the car.

Unfortunately, I was unable to properly torque the crank bolt. My torque wrench only has a maximum
setting of 100 ft lbs.
I torqued the bolt to 100 ft lbs, then gave it a few more quarter turns with my breaker bar.

To hold the pulley while torquing, i used two long screws in my pulley puller kit and a breaker bar to
hold it in place.

Hopefully, that's enough to hold it on.

Havent posted here in a long time and well... Eight years & 90k miles later, here I am.

Figured i'd do the timing belt since i'm at the interval and ill say this... Properly torque that crankbolt...

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...0c930a4121.jpg
Went to break the crank bolt off and noticed that it was loose. Literally could unscrew it with my fingers. Opened up the timing cover found a birds nest of shredded timing belt.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...681e91444a.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...0802002033.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...04a422a855.jpg
New vs old timing belt

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.clu...8b738e1c09.jpg
Tool I made to hold the crank pulley

What was the cause of the shredding and why does the new belt look wider than the old one?

The new timing belt is the correct width. The old one got shredded to half the size it is now :eek1:

Along with the loose crank bolt, I noticed that the harmonic balancer was about a quarter off the crankshaft. That probably caused the crankshaft timing sprocket to "woddle" off the crankshaft as well and caused rubbing against the timing belt.

Surprised to see that Mitsuboshi belt is made in the USA. I just got an Aisin water pump for my GX460 and it was also made here in the states. I assume that it has the same level of quality had it been made in Japan...