msekanha

Can anyone tell me the torque specs for the 3mz-fe;

Water Pump
Idler pulley
Tensioner pulley
Hydraulic tensioner
Crankshaft pulley bolt

I've searched through the forums and web but can't find a exact specs

Also, should I use silicone with the water pump gasket that came with the kit?

Thanks!

LeX2K

What kit do you have? The OEM kit does not come with or require sealant on the gasket, and you should not use any. I don't know about after market, what does the gasket look like, is it aluminum with a black bead of sealant built in?

Here are the specs:

https://i.imgur.com/EN2TCyc.png

msekanha

Ahhhh exactly what I need, thanks!

And I bought the Aisin kit off ebay for $198. Includes Aisin water pump and metal gasket, Koyo idler and tensioner, mitsuboshi timing belt, NTN hydraulic tensioner, and stone seals.

I've also included a stant thermostat and 2 gallons of pink super long life. For some reason, the car came with red coolant.

Should be a productive weekend

LeX2K

You will likely need a stud extractor kit to remove the water pump, something to keep in mind. How do you plan on removing the camshaft seals?

msekanha

I have an external torx socket set to remove those PITA studs

And depending on the condition of the seals, I may not touch them until the
next timing belt change. If I have to, I've seen people use the "Screw" trick to remove
the old seals and used a PVC pipe fitting to install the new seals.

Hopefully, I won't have to go down that route....

LeX2K

Be careful not to break the end of the studs off, I've never been able to get them off without using a stud extractor the tip of the stud always breaks off for me. What is your mileage? If you find even a hint of oil around the seals then probably best just to replace them.

I prefer using a small machine screw to remove the seals, I bought a cordless angle drill just for this purpose. Good luck with the job.

speedkar9

Oh the memories of when I was doing my 3MZ timing belt!
Followed that manual a little too closely not realizing my torque wrench was in ft-lb instead of in-lb .....

Not to scare you, good luck on your timing belt job!

For the studs, I skipped around that by removing the front cam pulley and six bolts holding timing belt cover #3 on, slid it up and was able to wriggle off the waterpump.

msekanha

I remember your thread, it still scars me to this day thinking about that lol. I would totally freak if something like that happened to me, that's why i'm very adamant of finding the exact torque specs.

When I did the timing belt on my 1mz, I was considering the route of removing the timing belt back cover to remove the water pump, but couldn't figure out how to break the cam pulley bolts free.

How did you go about removing the cam pulley bolts?

msekanha

I was able to break the studs free on my '97 ES that had 160K with the external torx bit and a pair of vice grips, hopefully I will be able to do the same on my Es330 which has 128K.

The reason why i'm not doing the seals right away is because I don't have the 'Special' tool to remove the cam pulley bolts. Also, i'm not too familiar with removing such a component so hopefully they won't need replacing until the next timing belt change.

Is there any other way of breaking the cam pulley bolts free with the tool?

KLF

I'm starting on my TB job this weekend, have all the parts sitting in the garage right now. I have stud pullers, and a new stubby right-angle cordless drill, I plan to replace ALL the seals as well. As for getting the cam pulleys off, I have a pile of scrap steel and a welder waiting, I will be making the tool to hold the pulleys.

speedkar9

I used the old trick of holding a long socket on the 10mm bolt holding timing cover #3 through the spokes of the cam pulley. The socket stops the cam pulley from turning while you break the bolt loose with your breaker bar.



I actually bought one of those "Cam pulley holder" tools but I couldn't get a decent grip on the pulley for it to break loose.

Which leads me to another question... how are you planning on removing the crank pulley bolt? I tried the bump-start method over and over with no luck, and ended up getting a 3/4" drive impact to take that sucker out.

You have a spare car right? This experience was half the reason I bought my Solara....

KLF

We tried that "socket on the 10mm bolt head" trick when my brother and I were doing the timing belt in his '05 Highlander. Yah... we sheared that bolt head right off. And the cam bolt was still tight as ever.

msekanha

The bump-start method didn't work for you, huh? I'm assumimg the breaker bar kept jumping off the bolt? I usually rope tie my breaker bar down to the lower control arm and frame so that sucker has no where to go

If I can break those cam pulley bolts free, I will most certainly change those seals. After reading KLF's post, i'm a little sketchy on the 10mm socket method.
Check out this "special" tool someone created.
Have you ever heard of the "timing belt screwed to a block of wood method"? It looks promising I may give that a try.


Now the valve covers doesn't have to be removed to replace the seals, right? After I remove the seals, how do I go about installing them? Are they like a lego and just 'pop' right in?

Any tips on removing the rear bank seal?

Unfortunely, my dad is 'borrowing' my 3es so I don't have any other vehicle at the moment.

LeX2K

You don't have to remove the valve covers, although doing so makes it extremely easy to remove the seals. Pop off the cam bearing and the seal comes right out. To remove the seal on the firewall side, not much room to work so an angle drill is your friend, carefully drill a small hole in the seal casing and thread in a small machine screw. I like to use a nail puller, but you can use pliers or large side cutters to pull the seal out. Some people like to use a seal puller tool, I'm not crazy about them because they can scratch the camshaft.

To install the seal, you can get a seal installer tool but I don't have one. I take both of the old cam seals and tape them together, the one that contacts the new seal I turn it around so it's facing backwards of what it normally would be. I then use a hole saw (with the drill bit removed) and use that along with the cam bolt, threading the bolt pushes the seal in place perfectly. You may have to use the crankshaft seal (they are the same inner diameter) to get the required depth to get the seal to press in all the way.

To remove the cam bolts, easiest way by far in an impact, those bolts are 100% dry so they can be difficult to remove. If you put a breaker bar on the bolt, then strike the bar with something large and heavy like a solid pipe, that can work well. A cam holder tool is great if you have a good one, the one I have bent the first time I used it so I found it basically useless. I've used the timing belt to hold the cams, but not on the 1MZ/3MZ engine I could not get enough holding power out of the timing belt. The piece of wood trick might work though.

msekanha

Very informative information, thank you.

So when i'm installing the new seals, do I press them in the camshaft/crankshaft until they're all the way in the camshaft/crankshaft? Or is there a certain depth they have to be installed in the camshaft/crankshaft?

I have access to an angle drill at my maintenance shop, so that's one check off the list.

I'm considering of making my own seal installer tool out of a PVC pipe a couple inches in length and the same diameter of the cam seals. Despite the crankseal being a little bigger in diameter, i'm assuming I will be able to use my fabricated tool to install the crankseal also.

Instead of using a hole saw, i'm thinking of using a giant washer from my work to thread the seal with the cam/crank bolt.

What do you think of my ideas?