Hey guys,

So Im having a potential problem when I hit the brakes at high speeds. The steering wheel starts to shake when I hit the brakes going 60+ MPH.

I had a buddy check my rotors which were silky smooth, and my pads still had about 60% life left on them. We bled the lines (got all the air out of them)

So Im really at a loss her guys.. If anybody can help me that would be great !


Also I have my windows tinted and want them tinted a little darker.. Can I tint over my tint?

 

Check the rotors again. You can't check the rotors visually.

You need to check for excessive run-out. Maximum disc runout: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)

Keep in mind, rotors rarely warp from heat. They either have pad deposits build up which is causing the shaking, or they have been ruined by uneven torquing of the wheel.

 

Your rotors are warped. You will need to replace both rotors and pads at the same time.

You can't tint over tint.

 

ill check them again. Can I get away with just sanding my rotors down or do you recommend buying new ones? Like I said they are silky smoth to the touch.

 

I'd just throw new rotors on. If you do want to keep them have them turned at a shop. the deposits that cause a "warped rotor" are typically very hard, you can't sand them off.

 

You can get the rotors turned if they're not too abused. Last time I had to get that done, I brought them to a shop and they did it for $40. On the ES, you can get Centric Premium Rotors for around $60/pair. Add a pair of new ceramic pads for $25 and you'll have brand new brakes with no vibration issues for the next 60,000 miles.

 

Go with the cheapest white box rotor you can find. Probably around $30. All rotors are made in the same factory, and then just placed into different boxes, no need to pay extra for the name.

It is essential to have better pads than rotors. Get a set of Akebono Pads for the front.

 

No not all rotors are not made in the same foundries but hey if you say something on the Internets it must be true right? Most are cast in Asia but as an example DBA casts their rotors in a foundry in Australia. That is not everything there is to a rotor the metal used and the mold shape matter. Casting good vanes requires a more expensive process, so cheap rotors sacrifice there.

I agree for many people, just get whatever is cheap its just a chunk of cast iron should get the job done on a street car. Myself I like something a step above whether I really need it or not. I use the Centric they have better quality than your average cheap rotor. I like the premium ones simply because they have the black e-coat on the non-friction surfaces. That might not be important to everyone.

 

I didn't say all rotors are the same, or at least I didn't mean to say that. I meant to say all white box rotors are coming from the same place. It doesn't matter where you buy it from. All auto parts stores rotors are the same as the cheaper brands you can buy online.

I also agree, that their are high performance rotors out there made to withstand high temperatures. These cheap rotors however are plenty for an ES300.

There's many videos over the internet showing how poor white box rotors are after a few high speed stops in a loaded pickup truck.

My main point was to go with cheaper rotors and spend more on pads.