What have you done to your ES today?
#166
Lexus Test Driver
the rotors are for a MKIV Supra TT, brand is called XtremeStop Tech, Pads are made by Vortex, those two products are like meant for each other because it's made by the same parent company.
for the big brake conversion. you need an adapter bracket, which you can get off ASG14 on this forum for about $150+shipping.
some minor grinding needs to be done on the caliper bracket, but very very minor, like 1~2 mm.
for SS brakelines, i used stoptech front and back, but front didn't fit....but i had the oem hard line cut and made a custom fitting for the SS brake lines.
here's a comparison of an OEM 4cylinder camry rotor vs the Supra BBK on my old car.
the ES300 front rotor is only a tad bigger than the 4banger camry rotor
#168
Lexus Test Driver
rear is basically stock but all new parts.
fresh rebuilt calipers, brackets, stoptech SS brake lines, vortex pads, and xtremestop rotors.
new brake shoes and e-brake cables.
did you know that our cars had larger rear rotors than the front?
fresh rebuilt calipers, brackets, stoptech SS brake lines, vortex pads, and xtremestop rotors.
new brake shoes and e-brake cables.
did you know that our cars had larger rear rotors than the front?
#173
Lexus Champion
My 2001 ES300 was making a clanking sound every time I would go over on a Bump. I could have sworn its coming from the rear, but my Mechanic immediately diagnosed the problem as being the front Stabilizer Links.
$180 later I drove out with both front Links replaced, and no more Clunks. I could have gotten the Links myself somewhat cheaper online, but it was not worth my time and effort. All in all the price was fair, and I was in and out in less the 1 Hr. Including the1/2 Hr it took his supplier to deliver the parts to him.
$180 later I drove out with both front Links replaced, and no more Clunks. I could have gotten the Links myself somewhat cheaper online, but it was not worth my time and effort. All in all the price was fair, and I was in and out in less the 1 Hr. Including the1/2 Hr it took his supplier to deliver the parts to him.
#176
#177
Ya scratch out from Walmart its about 2 bucks and everytime I wash the car I clean the lights back and front I swore I couldnt see the lens the one day from the side
Last edited by umbro7267; 04-08-12 at 12:37 PM. Reason: Droids are hard to try from
#178
I bought a kit by 3M at Advance Auto for $13 that gets rid of the yellow clouding on the headlight lamps. You actually sand down the crap that is on your lens and then use rubbing compound to clear it up once and for all. I was skeptical and thought the only way to get clean lenses was to replace the headlight casings.
Happy to say I was completely wrong...the lens is clear again with no yellowing or cloudiness. I didn't think to take pictures but trust me it worked.
Happy to say I was completely wrong...the lens is clear again with no yellowing or cloudiness. I didn't think to take pictures but trust me it worked.
#179
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
I bought a kit by 3M at Advance Auto for $13 that gets rid of the yellow clouding on the headlight lamps. You actually sand down the crap that is on your lens and then use rubbing compound to clear it up once and for all. I was skeptical and thought the only way to get clean lenses was to replace the headlight casings.
Happy to say I was completely wrong...the lens is clear again with no yellowing or cloudiness. I didn't think to take pictures but trust me it worked.
Happy to say I was completely wrong...the lens is clear again with no yellowing or cloudiness. I didn't think to take pictures but trust me it worked.
I am speaking from experience. I did not use sand paper, but I did use some polishing compound to clear up my passenger headlight, back in August. I have since noticed that the the oxidation has returned, it looks as if something was spilled on the top portion of the light. The driver headlight was replaced with a new unit due to physical damage, and it's still looking fresh.