I've got my struts and shocks in, waiting to order the springs as there only seems to be a few options for a '95 ES300.

What do you guys think of the B&G springs vs the Canadian Motorsports springs? Anyone have any experience with these? The CM set is around $150 while the B&G set is around $260. From what I've read, despite their "No sag" guarantee, the CM springs actually do sag (as expected?).

Thanks for any input.

 

I think what I'm going to do is go with the Canuck Motorsport springs and post the before and afters here in case others were interested. They run $150 on ebay or so and claim to lower my ES by 1.7. After reading around on the net of people's experiences with them on other vehicles, for the price, they seem to do their job quite nicely. Some mention sag, but there's no proof or pics of this, only pics of cars that look nicely lowered. At $150, I think it's worth the experiment, especially if I can provide shots that might assist others in their decision making.

I'm ordering them soon, will have them on in a couple of weeks and will post the pics then.

 

Be sure to give us 3, 6, 9 and 12 month follow-ups and I can put a link in the 2nd Gen Suspension sticky to your worklog thread.

 

I wouldn't "Expect" springs to sag - that's just poor quality. From my experience, stock springs usually do the best job of being "sag free." I know people generally frown upon cutting springs, but if it's done properly, it's a cheap way to lower a car that won't effect your ride quality at all. Every time this comes up a bunch of uninformed people pipe up and say don't do it, but they have no data, personal experience, or good reasons to offer up to not cut factory springs, only what they've read on the internet.

Trust real engineers with years of real world experience like Herb Adams.

Here's a sample of how you should do it:



you lose the temper on the 1" spot that you've heated up, NOT on everything. That's ok since that spot doesn't move or twist as the spring compresses anyway. You are to heat the spring in one spot till it's red hot, then press it closed and let it air cool slowly. If you don't flatten the end the spring will have a lower spring rate because the perch coil will be partially active. Not flattening it will work, but it's not the proper way to do it.

I used cut factory springs on my BMW track car for a long time before I got coil-overs (needed height adjustability for different tracks, based on differing regulations), and they worked great. Not bouncy, not too stiff - and free. If you do it right, it's absolutely fine.

 

That's very interesting, BoostedE21, thank you for that info. I wonder if my local suspension shop would be willing to entertain this option?

Sloooow, if I go with the CM springs, I will definitely update with pics over time. The sag claims may be outdated as there are rumors they have improved the design, not sure how much truth there is to any of it so I'm interested in doing some research on this brand.

I'll take before pics/after pics and then update at 3/6/12 with comparisons also.

 

I'm not sure if they will or not. They would probably be more willing to do it if you bring them just the springs, for liability reasons. Either way, it's not all that hard to do by yourself, if you can find a friend with a torch.

 

Ok, I've decided to go with the CM springs, have them on order from eBay and a local shop will install them and the struts all 4 wheels for around $300. I will take before and after pics (1.7 drop) and just to check sag over time will do 3, 6, 9, and 12 month out shots. I'm going to also put my 18's on after getting the suspension work done, so that'll be exciting.

 

why not just go with the solara teins. those have been a big hit. i have them on my car right now. got them for around $170 from a vendor on here.

 

What would be the price seperate? Shocks? Springs? Everything needed.

 

shocks should be around 80 a piece for the rears and 65 a piece for the fronts if im not mistaken. and that's for the kyb gr2's.