Alright, i bought a motor from a junkyard fro a 94 es, find out later from you guys that 94 motors and 93 motors are diffrent, my original motor blew a head gasket and i was wondering if it would be cheaper to rebuild my motor, if cheaper what has to be replaced or rebuilt?

 

Assuming you don't have a hoist of some kind & the will to do it, or you don't want to go buy a hoist for say $75-100usd.
Expect about $700 in labor to put one in from an honest $60/h labor mechanic.

The engines can run anywhere from like... $100 in a pull-it-yourself yard(Beware, sight unseen), to $1000 for imported JDM engines & wrecked North American engines that come with a short warrantee saying it will run for awhile.
(Used engines normalyl come with two different kinds of warrantee's if they have one. The short block, or the long block. The short block is just stating the bottom end of the engine (crank/rods/pistons) are in serviceable condition. The long block says the whole engine is in serviceable condition)
Buying an actual rebuilt engine is going to run about $1200-1500.

Toyota/Lexus, for a brand new crate engine will charge about $1500-2000.













To rebuild one expect the entire cooling system to be replaced & checked. The head gaskets blow due to overheating. All routine maintenance will likely be done on the engine. Various top-end gaskets will have to be replaced. The heads should be sent to a machine shop to be milled flat.

Normally runs like $1000-1500 to do a head gasket fix.

The mechanic MUST send the heads to a head shop, and I STRONGLY suggest buying the mechanic a set of Victor's Nitroseals (the Napa/Carquest chain). They're THE tuffest non-custom gasket you can buy for the engine. The OEM Toyota gasket would be behind that. Do not use ANY other off-the-shelf gasket on the engine. They'll be the worst pressed cardboard paper **** you can imagine. (I.E. A Fel-Pro gasket.)

 

How easy is it to replace an es motor, i've helped a friend replace a motor in a civic, but i'm assuming its not as easy

 

It depends. Ours is not that bad. There's descent room in the bay & the electronics disconnect relatively easy compaired to newer engines.

Have assorted sockets, wratchet sizes & a breaker bar. I suggest getting your hands on a torque wrench when putting it back in.

 

changing out the head gaskets and whatnot won't require hoisting up the engine of any sort will it?

 

hey pheonix, will asking you alot of Q's be a problem because i'm actually gonna try this

 

Nope, but the best way is to ask on AIM. If I'm not online here at the house, or at work, I'm logged in on my cell so... You'll never meet anyone easier to get in touch with than me.

draikonz you don't pull the engine to change a headgasket you:
Drain the coolant
Pull the intake
Pull the upper intake manifold
Pull the fuel rail & "coolant tree"
Pull the lower manifold.
The alternator
The dogbone engine mount off
Loosen the pasanger lug nuts, jack the passanger side up & put it on a jackstand & Remove that wheel.
Open the acess hatch & remove the 2 assessory belts
Remove the valve covers.
(THIS IS THE POINT where you would want to begin the process of checking the valve alignment. If that's something you're going to do.)
Remove the upper & lower timing belt covers.
Remove the hydraulic tensioner & timing belt.
Put a wrench on the cams & bind it against the aluminum head wall so the cam can not move. Use a 3/8-1/2" wratchet, or bracker bar. (I preffer a 1/2" wratchet) To remove the cam sprockets.
Remove the cams.
Remove the valve train hardware one valve at a time & MARK THEM so you don't loose where they go.
Remove the heads.
Toss the gaskets.

From there you clean the block mating surface with a wire brush & send the heads to a machinist / engine builder to be milled flat.



Except for cam alignment, the 92-96 Haynes Camry manual does a great job on walking people through removing the heads.