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Universal Air Suspension Sale

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Old 01-27-09, 11:45 AM
  #61  
P.G Brian
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JDMparts
Gotta love that pic, mysterious and sexy...

got my air ride setup...valve wiring is a pain in the ***, but the results are awesome...

if anyone has any valve wiring experience your help would be much appreciated.

Buy THIS SETUP!! You wont regret it!!
..same here... thank you for your input


UniAirSusp... as always... THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP ZACK!!!
Old 01-27-09, 01:15 PM
  #62  
UniAirSusp
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Originally Posted by JDMparts
how to properly wire up the valves....i'll get some pics later this evening.... i have a autoloc air command 8000....and its a royal PIA

or if you have basic wiring diagrams that would be helpful...

one side of my valves has two lead wires coming out of it and the other side of the valves has three male prongs, i realize that doesnt narrow it downmuch...but again i will post pics later on

thanks for your help

*** Please note I am assuming that you are running our valves ***

On our 1/2" valves there are 3 prongs sticking out of the valve. There is 2 that are parallel and 1 that is on the bottom perpendicular to the other 2 prongs. The 2 that are parallel need to have a 12 volt positive (usually from a switch) and the other needs ground. When they have power/ground they will open the valve. Also it doesn't matter what one is power/ground as long as its the two parallel prongs. The bottom prong, is for a different application, do not use for our applications. http://www.universalairsuspension.co...ort/Wiring.pdf

From looking at the installation instructions from autoloc, it looks like they have a single wire output from the brain to the valves. So, you will hook the wire up from the brain to the valve that will do that function.

Pin 11: Green (-) input wire to Right Rear Pump
Pin 12: Brown/ white (-) input wire to right rear dump
Pin 13: Purple/ black (-) input wire to left rear pump
Pin 14: Red/ black (-) input wire to left rear dump
Pin 15: Grey/ red (-) input wire to right front pump
Pin 16: Orange/ black (-) input wire to right front dump
Pin 15: Pink/ black (-) input wire to left front pump
Pin 16: Yellow/ white wire to left front dump

*Please note that by Pump, that should go to your lift/up valve, and dump, should go to your drop/down valve

**Also according to the instructions the brain unit can only handle 3 amps, do depending on what kind of valve and what size the coil is, you might have to run a relay per valve. But, most valves will pull less then that (ours does aprox .67 of an amp)

So, you will run one of the parallel prongs to ground, and the other to the corresponding function output on the box.
Old 01-27-09, 01:38 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by UniAirSusp
*** Please note I am assuming that you are running our valves ***

On our 1/2" valves there are 3 prongs sticking out of the valve. There is 2 that are parallel and 1 that is on the bottom perpendicular to the other 2 prongs. The 2 that are parallel need to have a 12 volt positive (usually from a switch) and the other needs ground. When they have power/ground they will open the valve. Also it doesn't matter what one is power/ground as long as its the two parallel prongs. The bottom prong, is for a different application, do not use for our applications. http://www.universalairsuspension.co...ort/Wiring.pdf

From looking at the installation instructions from autoloc, it looks like they have a single wire output from the brain to the valves. So, you will hook the wire up from the brain to the valve that will do that function.

Pin 11: Green (-) input wire to Right Rear Pump
Pin 12: Brown/ white (-) input wire to right rear dump
Pin 13: Purple/ black (-) input wire to left rear pump
Pin 14: Red/ black (-) input wire to left rear dump
Pin 15: Grey/ red (-) input wire to right front pump
Pin 16: Orange/ black (-) input wire to right front dump
Pin 15: Pink/ black (-) input wire to left front pump
Pin 16: Yellow/ white wire to left front dump

*Please note that by Pump, that should go to your lift/up valve, and dump, should go to your drop/down valve

**Also according to the instructions the brain unit can only handle 3 amps, do depending on what kind of valve and what size the coil is, you might have to run a relay per valve. But, most valves will pull less then that (ours does aprox .67 of an amp)

So, you will run one of the parallel prongs to ground, and the other to the corresponding function output on the box.

is it really necessary to run a relay to EACH individual valve? according to autoloc it says you have to....i bought 50 bucks worth from pep boys

any pros or cons for using one.... even if its not necessary?
Old 01-27-09, 04:11 PM
  #64  
UniAirSusp
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Originally Posted by JDMparts
is it really necessary to run a relay to EACH individual valve? according to autoloc it says you have to....i bought 50 bucks worth from pep boys

any pros or cons for using one.... even if its not necessary?
What kind of valves do you have? Does it say the wattage?
Old 01-27-09, 04:18 PM
  #65  
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unfortunately i'm not sure... i bought the kit used from japan.... the best i can do is send you some pics later on
Old 01-27-09, 04:22 PM
  #66  
UniAirSusp
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Originally Posted by JDMparts
unfortunately i'm not sure... i bought the kit used from japan.... the best i can do is send you some pics later on

Okay, do you have a multimeter?
Old 01-27-09, 04:28 PM
  #67  
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no, not a working one....

my friend ran over it....
Old 01-27-09, 04:30 PM
  #68  
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at this point i feel almost stupid trying to figure things out....have any good installers/dealers in OC, ca that you can refer me to?

professionals only please....no half assers.....i can do that myself (half *** that is)

Last edited by User1321989; 01-27-09 at 04:36 PM.
Old 01-27-09, 10:53 PM
  #69  
SeOuLiS250
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sent you PM
Old 01-28-09, 09:51 AM
  #70  
UniAirSusp
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Originally Posted by JDMparts
no, not a working one....

my friend ran over it....
Doah! if you would like to check the amps you will need to pick one up. Harbor freight carrys them for a few bucks.

Most likely it will be under 3 amps. The valves that we carry pull aprox 0.67 and most of the valves that i have experience with will usually pull anywhere from 1/2-1 1/2 amps. But then again, if for some reason you have a different valve or what have you, i don't want you mad at me for giving the wrong advise

If the amp draw is under 3 amps you do not need to run the relays.

Originally Posted by JDMparts
at this point i feel almost stupid trying to figure things out....have any good installers/dealers in OC, ca that you can refer me to?

professionals only please....no half assers.....i can do that myself (half *** that is)

I can't do any advertisements on the forum, i am just here for tech questions. We are out of San Bernardino....
Old 01-28-09, 07:20 PM
  #71  
datplayaz
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how long does it take for you guys to do a install on a car? i'm coming to Cali this summer and i'm thinking of bringing to car so you guys can install.
Old 01-29-09, 02:27 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by datplayaz
how long does it take for you guys to do a install on a car? i'm coming to Cali this summer and i'm thinking of bringing to car so you guys can install.
It take a week for the install at UAS. Let me know if you have any questions.
Old 01-29-09, 04:07 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by JDMparts
at this point i feel almost stupid trying to figure things out....have any good installers/dealers in OC, ca that you can refer me to?

professionals only please....no half assers.....i can do that myself (half *** that is)
I would have to suggest going directly to Universal .
UAS!!!! They do the best work...no half assing EVER .. All our cars were done there
Old 01-29-09, 06:48 PM
  #74  
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Default onboard air

Originally Posted by SeOuLiS250
wow
it's a great deal..
it definitely gives you the sickest look ever..
it just sucks that it's little bit dangerous to drive around with the air compressor
in the back
Go for oil-free gear-less direct driven air compressors. They run quiet and fill up your air tank quick!
Old 02-11-14, 02:31 PM
  #75  
Windaica
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How much is a complete set now?
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