What would be considered the most reliable used Lexus made?
#31
Lexus Fanatic
So "fit and finish" is relative.
The modern cars are much nicer than the older cars for the most part, much better materials, stitching, etc etc. Build quality from that perspective is better now.
However, I would agree that modern Lexus vehicles are not as over-engineered as the older cars.
The modern cars are much nicer than the older cars for the most part, much better materials, stitching, etc etc. Build quality from that perspective is better now.
However, I would agree that modern Lexus vehicles are not as over-engineered as the older cars.
#32
Lead Lap
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Yes, 2nd Gen was 98-05. Mines an 02 gs300, but i remember one day an old guy was behind me at a light, i took off and he stayed at the light for a second, but suddenly from the rear view mirror i could see him just fly by me effortlessly and when he did i saw the GS430 badge.
#33
Pole Position
#34
Lexus Fanatic
Actually, not a whole lot of figuring. I can understand that, to some extent. The '66, in comparison to the '82, would have been more or a hassle to own....stumbling carburators when cold, engine warm-ups, weaker ignition system in cold weather, more frequent oil changes, chassis-lubes, tune-ups every 5000-1000 miles with new breaker-points, distributor rotor, spark-plugs, wires, condenser, manual timing adjustments, and probably a less-durable paint finish.
Last edited by mmarshall; 11-21-18 at 04:22 PM.
#35
Lexus Champion
Well, one has to get what (s)he wants no matter what. I am same way I gotta get what I want, LOL!
#36
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Here is a question. When did Lexus start producing cars with the CAN buss?
As a mechanic I want to be SURE to avoid owning a car equipped with this nightmare tech [my two daily drivers are early '90s car/truck]. I've tracked down, and repaired only a few vehicles with CAN buss problems, and all of them required taking out the entire dash, and tracing the CAN buss wiring.
In short, any code related to the CAN buss is a nightmare. Usually its a code U1000, or U1001 that you never want to see.
As a mechanic I want to be SURE to avoid owning a car equipped with this nightmare tech [my two daily drivers are early '90s car/truck]. I've tracked down, and repaired only a few vehicles with CAN buss problems, and all of them required taking out the entire dash, and tracing the CAN buss wiring.
In short, any code related to the CAN buss is a nightmare. Usually its a code U1000, or U1001 that you never want to see.
Last edited by mtraine; 12-21-18 at 06:56 PM.
#37
Lexus Champion
I’m surprised you’ve had such issues with CAN. It’s been widely used in automotive for quite some time now. I’ve been using it in aerospace since about 2004 and have been very happy with it.
#38
Lexus Fanatic
Yeah, not at all a common issue.
Pretty sure EVERY Lexus has a CANBUS. I've never read of one issue here.
Pretty sure EVERY Lexus has a CANBUS. I've never read of one issue here.
#39
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Mostly its been issues with Nissan [number 1], and a few odd/ends cars [GM].
Its usually not a problem unless you get that dreaded code U1000, then its a nightmare. Of course Toyota/Lexus don't seem to have much issues with the wiring so, it might just be a non issue with Toyota/Lexus. I can't say that I've ever had to deal with any Toyota that had those codes so.........
However, I wouldn't think OBD1 made Lexus would have a CAN buss, but since Lexus was on the forefront of tech, they might have been one of the car makers that adapted the CAN early on in OBD2?
Its usually not a problem unless you get that dreaded code U1000, then its a nightmare. Of course Toyota/Lexus don't seem to have much issues with the wiring so, it might just be a non issue with Toyota/Lexus. I can't say that I've ever had to deal with any Toyota that had those codes so.........
However, I wouldn't think OBD1 made Lexus would have a CAN buss, but since Lexus was on the forefront of tech, they might have been one of the car makers that adapted the CAN early on in OBD2?
#40
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Now if its something as simple [using my example of the bcm can] as a window that won't go down, you can pretty much guess that the faulty window is the source of the can issue. However, if its something else wrong with the can, and you get the U1000 code, it can be a problem if there is no apparent issues with any of the control modules. At that point it becomes a wiring issue for which you have to usually remove the dash.
So, were you having the same issue in a vehicle without the CAN, the part of the vehicle that is having the problem will usually show itself [ie malfunction, or not be operable], BUT you can usually still drive the vehicle until you have the time/money for the repair.[unless of course its a problem something like the transmission, and even then the car might still be driveable]
#42
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From looking/reading, it would seem that the CAN buss setup came out with OBDII equipped vehicles, which puts it at around 94 as my 93 Camry don't have it.
Also, another plus for driving an OBD1 car is that on most of these cars they still have a distributor ignitions systems [caps, rotor, one coil, internal pickups on the dist, and the wires] , much simpler, and cheaper to repair vs the obdII cars with coil on plug setups.
With the ODBII setup with coil on plug you have to test each coil [and some of the coils that I tested to be good were bad, sending me on another wild goose chase for the problem]. Point made, is that in my experience you almost have to use OEM coils on OB2 setups [with odb1 its hit/miss using Chinese parts] These obd2, oem coils cost usually around $100 each, and more, so if you need all four that is $400. On the other hand a good oem coil for the OBD1 cars usually cost at the MOST $70-90, and you only have to buy ONE.
I love new tech in cars when it works, but God help the repair tech, or person who owns the car when it fails. For me [getting older] I want something simple, and relatively cheap to repair. [ie just ONE headlight bulb on my last 05 Nissan was $100. That's right $100 for a frigging headlight bulb. [couldn't even find one in a generic, it had to be a bulb made by Phillips, or nothing].
Anyway, I'm old so I'm off to yell at some clouds.
Also, another plus for driving an OBD1 car is that on most of these cars they still have a distributor ignitions systems [caps, rotor, one coil, internal pickups on the dist, and the wires] , much simpler, and cheaper to repair vs the obdII cars with coil on plug setups.
With the ODBII setup with coil on plug you have to test each coil [and some of the coils that I tested to be good were bad, sending me on another wild goose chase for the problem]. Point made, is that in my experience you almost have to use OEM coils on OB2 setups [with odb1 its hit/miss using Chinese parts] These obd2, oem coils cost usually around $100 each, and more, so if you need all four that is $400. On the other hand a good oem coil for the OBD1 cars usually cost at the MOST $70-90, and you only have to buy ONE.
I love new tech in cars when it works, but God help the repair tech, or person who owns the car when it fails. For me [getting older] I want something simple, and relatively cheap to repair. [ie just ONE headlight bulb on my last 05 Nissan was $100. That's right $100 for a frigging headlight bulb. [couldn't even find one in a generic, it had to be a bulb made by Phillips, or nothing].
Anyway, I'm old so I'm off to yell at some clouds.
#43
Lexus Fanatic
But again, where are all the reports of failures in 94 and later Lexus models pertaining to the areas you claim are more complex?
Headlamp bulbs in your Nissan were $100 because they are HID lamps. They last much, much longer than halogen lamps and give you much better lighting on the road.
If you want something simple, I wouldn't buy any old luxury car. Just buy an old beater somewhere and be done with it.
Headlamp bulbs in your Nissan were $100 because they are HID lamps. They last much, much longer than halogen lamps and give you much better lighting on the road.
If you want something simple, I wouldn't buy any old luxury car. Just buy an old beater somewhere and be done with it.
#44
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From my experience with owning older Lexus and also working for a Lexus dealership, the most reliable cars are:
-1995-2000 LS400
-2001-2006 LS430
-1998-2007 LX470 (Land Cruiser is even better since it comes with a conventional suspension)
-2003-2009 GX470
-1992-2000 SC300/SC400 (The newer the better. The early years had a low quality interior that falls apart)
-2002-2010 SC430
-2001-2005 IS300
-1998-2005 GS
-2008-2014 IS-F
These are considered the best cars by our technicians and parts guys. Ideally you want the later year cars for vehicles like the original SC but they are all pretty solid. Stay away from versions of cars with air suspension unless you plan on swapping over to a conventional suspension.
My 2005 LS430 has been my most reliable car so far. It’s never given me any trouble outside of changing the ballasts and air suspension out. My sister drives a 2002 LS430 and it runs well despite having double the mileage of my LS. My SC has been decent. The interior just falls apart on the early years. I have had to replace my ECU twice on it.
-1995-2000 LS400
-2001-2006 LS430
-1998-2007 LX470 (Land Cruiser is even better since it comes with a conventional suspension)
-2003-2009 GX470
-1992-2000 SC300/SC400 (The newer the better. The early years had a low quality interior that falls apart)
-2002-2010 SC430
-2001-2005 IS300
-1998-2005 GS
-2008-2014 IS-F
These are considered the best cars by our technicians and parts guys. Ideally you want the later year cars for vehicles like the original SC but they are all pretty solid. Stay away from versions of cars with air suspension unless you plan on swapping over to a conventional suspension.
My 2005 LS430 has been my most reliable car so far. It’s never given me any trouble outside of changing the ballasts and air suspension out. My sister drives a 2002 LS430 and it runs well despite having double the mileage of my LS. My SC has been decent. The interior just falls apart on the early years. I have had to replace my ECU twice on it.
#45
Lexus Fanatic
From my experience with owning older Lexus and also working for a Lexus dealership, the most reliable cars are:
-1995-2000 LS400
-2001-2006 LS430
-1998-2007 LX470 (Land Cruiser is even better since it comes with a conventional suspension)
-2003-2009 GX470
-1992-2000 SC300/SC400 (The newer the better. The early years had a low quality interior that falls apart)
-2002-2010 SC430
-2001-2005 IS300
-1998-2005 GS
-2008-2014 IS-F
These are considered the best cars by our technicians and parts guys. Ideally you want the later year cars for vehicles like the original SC but they are all pretty solid. Stay away from versions of cars with air suspension unless you plan on swapping over to a conventional suspension.
My 2005 LS430 has been my most reliable car so far. It’s never given me any trouble outside of changing the ballasts and air suspension out. My sister drives a 2002 LS430 and hers has twice as many miles as mine. Her car runs well but we have had to do a lot of maintenance on it due to the mileage. Nothing crazy so far.
-1995-2000 LS400
-2001-2006 LS430
-1998-2007 LX470 (Land Cruiser is even better since it comes with a conventional suspension)
-2003-2009 GX470
-1992-2000 SC300/SC400 (The newer the better. The early years had a low quality interior that falls apart)
-2002-2010 SC430
-2001-2005 IS300
-1998-2005 GS
-2008-2014 IS-F
These are considered the best cars by our technicians and parts guys. Ideally you want the later year cars for vehicles like the original SC but they are all pretty solid. Stay away from versions of cars with air suspension unless you plan on swapping over to a conventional suspension.
My 2005 LS430 has been my most reliable car so far. It’s never given me any trouble outside of changing the ballasts and air suspension out. My sister drives a 2002 LS430 and hers has twice as many miles as mine. Her car runs well but we have had to do a lot of maintenance on it due to the mileage. Nothing crazy so far.