You really need to take the vehicle to a dependable body shop and get an estimate. Tell them you are trying to decide whether to turn in to insurance (some have deals with insurance companies and will price based on that discount whether or not insurance is used, while some will give breaks for private pay). The breakpoint for totaling a vehicle is 75% of value. Then based on that estimate and your deductible (and considering insurance rates may go up with a claim), make a decision about turning the accident in to insurance. As an example, my wife backed her ES300h into a pillar in a parking garage. Repair cost was 2k and our deductible is 1k, so I just repaired rather that turn in and have the claim on the record with premiums likely to increase.

Given your pictures, I can't see the vehicle getting totaled, but damage looks sufficient to file insurance claim.

This is a situation where your insurance agent can help advise (assuming you have one).

 

I would go through insurance. I got rear-ended. It damaged the rear bumper and the passenger rear fender. It didn't look that much worse than yours. The cost to repair it (by a shop that specializes in Audis) was $4,800. The insurance company paid all but $250. No way I would want to pay that out of pocket.

 

As a fellow Lexus owner and "community friend," I want to respectfully advise you to slow down when it rains. 65 mph on a rain slick freeway is too fast, especially when water puddles up. You cannot see that ahead, so you must drive slower to anticipate the unknown. This is exactly why the highway patrol constantly pounds into our heads, "slow it down when it rains." I am so glad you were not injured and fortunately you get a second opportunity to do things different.
Best wishes to you and hope your car comes back gleaming as new.

 

I will respectfully agree with Fizzboy....65 MPH can be pushing it in the rain, especially with worn tires.

 

no, you said "Most modern tires, especially all-seasons and rain-tires, are quite resistant to hydroplaning", which is contrary to Fizzboy's point, consistent with physics, that no matter the tires (whether they be worn or brand new all season tires or rain? tires) cannot keep a vehicle from planing on surface water after a given speed and momentum is achieved, which I generally find to be 55 mph in light passenger cars (a hummer may be slightly higher). Fizzboy is rightly encouraging drivers to slow down during heavy rain (but forgot to remind them to get out of the left lane first) whereas you insinuate it's okay to push it as long as the driver has modern rain? tires

 

That does not contradict what I said earlier. Modern tires DO have better resistance to hydroplaning than in the past....at reasonable speeds. Doing 65, though, especially with worn tires, may be pushing it. That's not me (or Fizzboy)...that's simple physics.

 

Ginaw1, glad you're okay and is able to talk about your unfortunate experience.

With so much conversations about tires & hydroplaning I have not seen where you've shared the tire brand/model and thread depth of your tires so we all could get a better understanding of what may have transpired and learn from it.

There's a good bit of experienced and knowledgeable members chiming in on your post and I'm hoping your tire information can provide some further and future insight to you and everyone else.


Again, glad you're Okay, and thanks.

 

Good points. I fully agree.

 

To everyone who has commented/helped me out: Thank you so much! I genuinely appreciate it. I will definitely be much careful during driving. I think part of the reason I wasn't worried about my speed is because I've never had problems with the wet pavement so I didn't think much of it.

As for the tires, my front tires are good, my back tires potentially need to be changed. It almost passed the penny test, but it didn't. On that note, I know that when you get a new pair of tires, the better ones should be on the rear axle right? I think when we got new tires, the new ones were switched out to the front axle. Unfortunately I do not have any photos on me! I believe the front two wheels are Michelin and the back two are Goodyear. I also know that my parents changed a pair of tires recently, so the front tires are pretty good.

I went to get it estimated because I finally found time in my schedule and that estimator said that my car would be considered totaled. He priced my car at $10000 with repairs being $8500. Part of the reason why it is so expensive is because he says that the headlights need to be changed, which each cost $1350. I'm a bit confused at this part, because they work perfectly, although the mounting tabs may have been broken/missing after the accident. If that is the case, is it necessary to replace the entire headlight or would a repair kit be sufficient?

Like I said everything in my car works, and the mechanic fixed my bumper so it wouldn't be falling off when I am driving. When I tried budging the headlights, one did not move, while the other moved slightly. I just don't understand why it is necessary to replace the ENTIRE headlight if it works perfectly and only the mounting tabs are broken. Any insight would be much appreciated.

My friend also thinks that the mechanic played on the fact that I went alone to the body shop (I'm a 21 year old female) and probably didn't think I understood much so he ripped me off. Any thoughts on that? Thank you so much!!!

 

Be careful here. I've seen scams like this, where cars are overestimated so the body shop can buy out the car, fix it, and sell it off. Who estimated it? The body shop or your insurance company?

That headlight bit is cute. Get another quote somewhere else if it wasn't with your insurance. You can also go with a clean used headlight which is WAY less than $1,350. I mean, the headlights on your car now are used, right?

I helped a client once thru this very scenario. They totalled out her car initially at the shady shop it was towed to. I pulled it out of there and had it towed to a trusted shop, and they did a "Contract to Repair" which is where another body shop agrees to fix the car for an amount your insurance will agree.

Of course, all this applies only if you are unhappy with that verdict. In our case, it was laughable they totaled the car with the damage it had. We fought it, and won.

She's still driving the car today.

 

This video shows how what you think is good tread depth, may not be so.

 

A body shop estimated it. I don't know if this is the way to go, but I checked on Yelp and the reviews were really good. I'm definitely going to try and get two more quotes.

The guy said something about my headlights being HID so it was the most expensive one.

 

Good idea. Keep us posted. They may ask you if used parts are ok, say yes. I mean we all like new but if it's the difference between it staying in your garage or the crusher, you know the answer.

It's funny, I was just griping about this very thing (expensive headlights & parts in general) in other threads recently. How it's unsustainable to keep making cars too expensive to repair so they just get written off. Here you go, it's happening right here.

Get those other quotes and keep us posted.

 

So CleanSC, if the mounting tabs are broken, there's no way to replace the mounting tabs and instead, I have to replace the entire headlight?

 

Depending on the severity, I have seen cars with this type of repair. It's generally looked upon as a hack type of repair unless you can really get a good structural bond out of what's left of the tab. You can heat and melt the plastic and sometimes get a decent repair. Do I like it? No, not usually.

However, seeing that we're talking over a grand on a headlight on a borderline total loss case, I'd look into it at least. I'd first check into the cost of a used headlight that's not damaged, which is a better option. You might be surprised how little these can cost.

Talk to the body shops about more cost effective methods they can employ.

Have you involved your insurance yet? Or you just bouncing from shop to shop?

What year is your RX? That headlight price seems high.