Car Care Myth
Don't just start a cold engine and let it idle without moving until it is at normal temperature. Let it idle until the oil pressure comes up.....that will take from about 10 to 30 seconds depending on outside temperature, engine condition, oil viscosity, and oil type...synthetic or petroleum. In really cold weather, without a block heater, you may want to let it idle for about two minutes or so to make sure the oil is warm enough to be flowing freely.
Then take off and drive GENTLY (below about 3000 RPM or so) until the coolant temperature is about 140 degrees or so...roughly the lower mark in the normal zone on the temp gauge. An engine is considered warmed up at 140 degrees, and can then be driven harder, though the thermostat usually doesn't open till about 195-200, and the cooling fan clicks on a little higher than that.
You guys are also forgetting about the transmission and differential fluids. THEY have to warm up, too. Letting an engine sit still while it warms up does NOTHING for those fluids to help THEM warm up. The best thing is to just drive slowly and gently for the first couple of minutes, warm ALL the drivetrain fluids up at once, and then drive normally.
Most engines, by actual testing, warm up more quickly and efficiently under a light driving load than when sitting still....and, of course the transmission and differentials heat up as well.
This, of course, refers only to normal, traditional gas and diesel engines. With Gas/Electric Hybrids, of course, the computers determine when the gas and electric motors cut on and off......which, of course, is determined by a number of factors relating to temperature, engine load, and state of battery charge.
Then take off and drive GENTLY (below about 3000 RPM or so) until the coolant temperature is about 140 degrees or so...roughly the lower mark in the normal zone on the temp gauge. An engine is considered warmed up at 140 degrees, and can then be driven harder, though the thermostat usually doesn't open till about 195-200, and the cooling fan clicks on a little higher than that.
You guys are also forgetting about the transmission and differential fluids. THEY have to warm up, too. Letting an engine sit still while it warms up does NOTHING for those fluids to help THEM warm up. The best thing is to just drive slowly and gently for the first couple of minutes, warm ALL the drivetrain fluids up at once, and then drive normally.
Most engines, by actual testing, warm up more quickly and efficiently under a light driving load than when sitting still....and, of course the transmission and differentials heat up as well.
This, of course, refers only to normal, traditional gas and diesel engines. With Gas/Electric Hybrids, of course, the computers determine when the gas and electric motors cut on and off......which, of course, is determined by a number of factors relating to temperature, engine load, and state of battery charge.
- Let it idle for just a short while (I do 15 seconds) to get oil up to pressure and distributed in the engine
- Don't drive madly aggressively with high rpms for the first few minutes to get all the drivetrain up to normal temp
- After above, enjoy.
I'm with mmarshall. Start it and be gentle for a few minutes. Idling is bad for the engine, ESPECIALLY when the oil is cold. Driving modestly helps the oil warm up faster, ergo less time with cold oil, ergo less harm to the engine.
lots of auto cars, my Lexus included, will keep your car in 2nd gear to speed up warm up, including warming up the catalytic convertor for peak efficiancy. Others with turbos will run conservative boost until the engine is fully warmed up.
Why is that?
Spring and summer, I wait about half a minute or so. In winter, it'll idle as much as 5 or 6 minutes. Even though I put in synthetic oil in winter, the car idles longer so that the inside is somewhat warm and it helps with clearing away snow off the windows and hood.
Spring and summer, I wait about half a minute or so. In winter, it'll idle as much as 5 or 6 minutes. Even though I put in synthetic oil in winter, the car idles longer so that the inside is somewhat warm and it helps with clearing away snow off the windows and hood.
Yes, some vehicles do have a transmission lock-out for the upper gears at cold temperatures (fortunately my Outback doesn't).........I find that feature annoying. It does speed up engine and transmission warm-up a little, but also tends to jack the engine RPM up unnecessarily as well, so you have to be doubly careful and drive even slower to stay below 3000.......while impaitient jerks behind you fly by and show you their middle finger.
Yes, some vehicles do have a transmission lock-out for the upper gears at cold temperatures (fortunately my Outback doesn't).........I find that feature annoying. It does speed up engine and transmission warm-up a little, but also tends to jack the engine RPM up unnecessarily as well, so you have to be doubly careful and drive even slower to stay below 3000.......while impaitient jerks behind you fly by and show you their middle finger.
my friends father blew up the engine in his 94 Acura Legend, 140k on the odometer, oil changes every 3k, WOT right after starting, summer or winter
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