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Little to update. Just oil pump install, dod delete plugs, checked fuel pump lifter lash, then installed the valley cover. Top bolt from 2j cam cap, bottom is gm oe oil pump bolt. The oil pump bolts yielded while retorquing so I used some 2J bolts laying around to make it work. dod delete plugs valley cover and fuel pump installed. I checked bdc of the fuel lobe for preload and tdc for clearance. Luckily the TexasSpeed lash cap worked fine.
Continued with pushrods and trunion upgrade to the rocker arms. Also found out Texas Speed sent me an LS trunion kit, only difference is the bolts... so reusing the stockers per their recommendation (update... no LT kit from comp cams comes with bolts so technically they were extra. Had a similar experience with brake brakets and missing hardware from Suprastore (just went to a hardware store that day). I have to order more parts (oil pan) so going to push them to make things right.
Last edited by shonuff53; Sep 23, 2020 at 10:33 PM.
Engine front and rear covers on. The direct injection system is upgraded to the 6.2L injectors and new seals. And ICT Billet LT mount plates that accept LS engine mounts. Old injectors looked like this one. low mileage 6.2L injectors tools needed for GDI teflon seal replacement. push seal over pen tip, remove the back of the pen and push the blue sleeve to line up with tip of the injector. Next, push the seal on to injector. After all the seals are on, you can slide the pen cap over the seals and it will press them tightly against the injector. Fuel rails and respective harnesses in you can see from the mount that LT mount holes are higher and slightly forward from the LS locations (open holes). Now I can use whatever LS mounts are available for our cars.
Threw a starter on and tried mounting it with cxracing LS mounts. For the trial, I used an LT1 pan with the oil cooler installed. I anticipated it would hit the crossmember without modification and confirmed. Pictures below for reference. Starter and pan on. the LT1 oil cooler shown here. going in. Left the hood on since I was working solo. Cleared fine with the struts removed. cxracing mounts in. I have read on other forums that the bushings in these are garbage. Energy suspension has something that fits for $20. clearanced the passenger mount to clear a sensor mount hole on the block. I think there will be more material removed before it's all said and done. finished mount driver side view with pan resting on rear crossmember. top view with pan resting on crossmember bottom front view with pan resting on rear crossmember rear bottom view with pan on crossmember. also starting to wonder if the hood will close once in and all parts on. another view of it resting in there.
I could not get the motor in with the LT1 camaro pan and then I tried the corvette pan which cleared the rear crossmember but then hit the front subframe. So, I ordered the holley pan and cleared everything, with the rear crossmember about 4mm away from a hump on the pan for the drain bolt. Think I'll clearance the rear crossmember and try sliding the engine forward as much as the mounts allow. With the hump on the rear crossmember clearanced, it could come down another ~0.75in or so with different mounts. The hood hits the intake manifold as is (I tried the l83 manifold and LT2 manifold). Sitting on cx racing mounts as far back as mounts allow barely clearing the crossmember l83 manifold with plastic cover LT2 manifold, with modifications to fit on L83.
Update on headers and mounts: I ordered sikky LS mounts without bushings and installed them using washers in place of the bushing as a temporary trial fit. To offset the effect of the engine being raised by LS to LT motor adapter plates, I stacked the washers at 1.74in vs a compressed urethane bushing around ~2in for a sikky bushing. This was the first try and I barely shortened the distance as I didn't know how the height of sikky mounts compares to cx racing mounts. The result was that the engine shifted slighty rearward and sat around 1cm above the rear crossmember after trimming off the raised hump on the crossmember. The stock truck exhaust manifolds (with cx racing mounts) hit the steering shaft on Driver side and just touched the condensation drip hose from the cabin on passenger side. To address the interference, I ordered a used set of camaro manifolds and they fit perfect as far as interference goes.
Haven't made much progress. I ordered fuel system parts and wiring materials for prep. Finished depinning the body harness connector and fuse block connector to wire in relays, fuses, and connectors. Fuel pumps on these newer SCs are returnless with a regulator just after the pump that dumps back in the tank. Going to tap the float sensor hat for a new feed and use the tank. Fuel level unit out Fuel pump out Old sc pump hanger left, newer one on the right. Throwing the old one in with new pump to get rid of the built in regulator.
For the sake of simplicity.. I kept the stock intake fuel line and connected it to the walbro. The return was routed to the level sender hat. I'm going to run a trigger from the stock 2j ecu all the way to a relay and the then feed power to the stock trunk harness. This will bypass fuel pump ecu since they break down all the time. From the tank, Im using an adapter fitting on the stock fuel filter fitting to -06AN and then to the vette filter and towards the front. Still deciding on filter placement. The front will connect to a flex fuel sensor and then to a LT4 engine feed line and L83 mechanical fuel pump. From there its all stock except I'm using injectors from the 6.2L L86.
Fuel lines are still in work. Got the engine harness about 95% the rest will be finished on the car. Had to cut the hood skeleton to clear the intake manifold, also clearanced some of the manifold plastic. Installed moroso 90 deg remote oil filter adapter and coolant thermostatic switch adapter. Also, purchased another used tilton nascar clutch.
Fuse block panel mounting location, and fuel feed routing. Also, started to mount the battery in the truck on top of the frame next to the cd changer but don't like the way it sits. Wondering about pulling the cd changer and amp and placing the battery there.
