When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do you know if you had to remove the cross brace at the back of the car in front of the resonators? I tried to install my PPE Midpipe over the weekend and it is resting on that brace, which doesn't seem right. I'm not super happy with the fitment of it. I'm going to call them today to try to work it out.
I don't remember if Paul took off the cross brace, but I don't remember him taking off anything other than the stock midpipe when I was videoing. For the headers you have to take off the subframe .I know the midpipe was a tight, but after a few adjustments he was able to get it without any rub. When you call them or email, ask for Paul, I'm sure he'll be happy to answer your questions. LMK what you find out.
Thanks, he definitely had some good suggestions for the install of the mid pipe. I'll attempt to correct it tonight. I think part of the problem is not having a lift to work with. That makes it difficult to say the least. He said there should be 1/4-3/8 inch clearance between the cross brace and the exhaust. I'll report back once I attempt to install it again.
Thanks for your help. Paul had some suggestions, which ended up working out. I'm letting the Ultra Copper seal on the header/mid-pipe flange as I always use that stuff to make sure the gaskets seal. Can't wait to drive it hah.
Thanks for your help. Paul had some suggestions, which ended up working out. I'm letting the Ultra Copper seal on the header/mid-pipe flange as I always use that stuff to make sure the gaskets seal. Can't wait to drive it hah.
Steve
Anytime, glad I could help in whatever way possible. Paul is an awesome guy, which is another reason I really like PPE. Look forward to hearing your initial impressions after your first drive! I'm headed to the dyno later today, will post results later today.
Reaults headers from PPE ELH with PPE catback exhaust. Ambient temps were close to 100F. Numbers in yellow are with airbox closed, numbers in green are with airbox open.
the exhaust shop that I took my GT Haus to get install showed me this exact issue, The brace area is too tight for the pipes and it sits very close. He was able to adjust from the front and push the pipes more towards the body(/heatshield). But what he told me that it can probably drone from this area, as the pipes either can touch the body or the brace. I think they spend about 30 mins adjusting. Another option he told me to take out the brace and put some spacers but this might impact the handling of the car.
The shop I took the car in was very good and they mostly on aftermarket cars. I dont have any drone thank god but I exactly know what you are talking about I would suggest you put this on a lift because its PIA.
Originally Posted by 1A1
Thanks, he definitely had some good suggestions for the install of the mid pipe. I'll attempt to correct it tonight. I think part of the problem is not having a lift to work with. That makes it difficult to say the least. He said there should be 1/4-3/8 inch clearance between the cross brace and the exhaust. I'll report back once I attempt to install it again.
Is it pretty standard with these cars to have such wavy graphs? I know on other platforms, pulling ABS fuse so that the brakes don't get applied while dynoing. Or is it just the signal isn't the best?
Am I reading that right? It made more power with the box closed? Was the hood open during the dyno pulls?
Steve
No, sorry let me explain it better. The colored graph lines do not correspond to the HP and TQ numbers in the yellow and green boxes. With the air box open the car made 412 HP and 374 TQ, with it closed it made 401 HP and 358 TQ. Stock before any mods the car made 389 HP and 348TQ with air box open, and 376 HP and 337 TQ with it closed (stock numbers are not on the graph).
Do not know if they did the runs with hood open or closed. I was not in the room when they did it.
No, sorry let me explain it better. The colored graph lines do not correspond to the HP and TQ numbers in the yellow and green boxes. With the air box open the car made 412 HP and 374 TQ, with it closed it made 401 HP and 358 TQ. Stock before any mods the car made 389 HP and 348TQ with air box open, and 376 HP and 337 TQ with it closed (stock numbers are not on the graph).
Do not know if they did the runs with hood open or closed. I was not in the room when they did it.
Thanks for clearing it up. Next time you are in the area, see if they can provide the baseline and your highest and post them up. I'd love to see the mid-range gains.
Did you just recently trade your car in at Scottsdale Audi?2017 GSF
You beat me to the punch. The last week has had some unexpected turns. It is true that my journey with the GS F has ended, sadly. Over the last week I moved to Minnesota for work. Initially I thought I'd keep the GS F and pick-up a 4Runner for the winter. After much debate with the spouse, a middle ground/compromise was reached, which ended up being an RS3. 1800 miles later now in MN.
Honestly, the GS F has a lot more character, and more fun to daily drive. It's not as fast or agile as the RS3, but there's more connectedness with car and the NA V8 is such a gem. I wouldn't recommend anyone trading in their GS F for an Audi, unless it's an R8 or you're in a similar situation as me. I'm hoping to warm up more to the RS3 after a HPDE and a rear sway bar.
Also, crossing my fingers that a CL forum member will pick up the car or it at least lands with a fellow enthusiast who will enjoy it as much as I did. Before I departed with the GS F, I had the front and rear RR-Racing rotors and Endless brake pads put on.
Until next time I'm in a Lexus, it's been swell and have enjoyed my time on the forum! Thanks for following the thread.
