I finally received my PRP coil kit. It took about 40 days from order date. I ordered the HITACHI IGC0079 R35 coils from Rock Auto. Super excited to get it installed. I’ll add more picks when installed.

Bruce

 

Those R35 coils look slick and look to be a great bolt in option that fits under the cover.

I'll have to look into those for my build in the future.

 

Im hoping they work out. I’ll add photos of install.

 

Hi Bruce, I have been watching your build for a while and using it as a road map for my '95 5-speed(still compiling parts). Thank you for being so detailed with the photos and documenting everything. The part numbers for the ECU capacitors is especially helpful right now because I am about to rebuild mine in preparation for install.

Is there any reason you're going with R35 coils so soon after swapping in the VVTI coils? stronger spark?

-John

 

John,

Thanks for the feedback. I’m so glad to hear my posts have been helpful.

As far as the R35 coils, you hit the nail on the head. I was getting spark wash at high boost. I’m putting the final touches on the R35 today. I’m hoping it starts.

I will post pics when done. BTW I have a great set of pictures of passenger seat repair if you ever need them. I will post a thread at some point.

Bruce

 

I installed the Syltech Igniter Delete Kit this weekend and replaced my VVTi setup with the PRP R35 coil kit in order to get a stronger spark. Mission accomplished. No more spark wash. I have a tach and no CEL.

It took about 12 hours to replace the coils, re-wire the car, and mount the Syltech unit. Overall, it was straight forward.

Here are some pictures of the install.







The Syltech Igniter Delete Kit:




Bruce

 

Clean NA-T setup, you can't even tell you have those coils.. This is an unbelievable option for folks with stock valve covers and NA-T with the crossover plenums. Did you get it on the dyno?

 

Thanks for the feedback. Appreciated. Ya, I like that the coils fit the way they do. I had it on a dyno before the new coils. I think it would be just over 400HP with the current setup.

Bruce

 

I recently found a post on Club Lexus that describes how to use some Russian made software (Car Tester 8000) to log data on pre-OBD2 Toyota vehicles.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ger-found.html

I found an old tablet with Windows NT on it, purchased a couple inexpensive items on Amazon and it works great.

Here are some pictures of the cable I built and a tip on getting it working. The rest of the information can be found in the thread.

This pic show the capacitor that has to be added.






This pic show how I added a split to the wire coming from pin 5 on the RS-232 connector.










In the Windows environment, go to the Device Manager in Computer Management and see what port has been assigned to the USB cable you have inserted into the computer.
Then in the Car Tester 8000 software make sure you have the port setting the same as the Windows Assignment.

In my case, the USB cable was assigned port 5.



The only trouble I am having with the software is that you cannot save the data as far as I can tell.

Thanks,
Bruce

 

I finally got the software to save. Here is a pic of a drive I did this morning. Max boost 206 kPa.



Bruce

 

I have always felt like my car had some funny hesitations at high RPM. In order to address this problem, I finally installed the Supravworld Dual CAM & Crank Trigger KIT 2JZ-GE/1JZ-GE non vvti. (Found Here: https://www.supravworld.com/product-...-non-vvti-only)

This kit was straight forward to install. The paper instructions the kit comes with are not as clear as YouTube video instructions.

My only advice for anyone installing the kit is to make sure the sensor gaps are all good. The cam sensors are adjustable. The crank sensor is not. When I installed the first time, my cranks sensor gap was .81 mm. The car started, but gave me a CEL right away. I pulled it apart a second time and using a file, modified the thickness of the sensor plastic body so that when installed moved it closer to the teeth on the crank gear. The gap I went with was .35 mm. This solved the problem and the car runs great.

Here is the YouTube video instructions:


Here are some pics of the installation:





















No Distributor!



Out with the old



In with the new



Thanks,
Bruce

 

After lots of trial and error, I have settled in on my NA-T setup. With that, I have created an updated list of parts I used to get where I stand today. I hope it helps someone save some time and money.



Here is an updated engine compartment shot.


Bruce