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The 2500 rpm column is ok, but the 2000 rpm column is a little high and the 1500 rpm column and under are really high.
I would lower the whole 2000rpm column until the idle load is around 26 degrees.
the 1500rpm column until the idle load is 17 degrees
and the 800-1200 closer to 14-16 degrees.
the 500 can actually go back up a little to 16ish in timing and that is to help catch the idle if the engine stumbles.
That is just a rough start before you get it tuned. the less timing will be safer and see how it runs and go from there, the tuner will see how the engine responds but never start high on timing.
I wouldn't start with the timing numbers you posted, I would expect it to start misfiring when getting on and off the throttle if it idles well at all.
I haven't tuned a 1uz but going off stuff I learned from the 2jz, which I am thinking is going to be alot more similar since they are both toyota setups with similar base timing from the factory.
The LS and even the older SBC or BBC engines seem to love lots of timing, our motors don't like it as much down low.
Plus running less timing in the low load areas will give your engine some time to recover between pulls in boost.
If you are on the edge of your timing across the whole map the motor will just be adding heat at low loads where you wont see as much power benefit from it.
The 2500 rpm column is ok, but the 2000 rpm column is a little high and the 1500 rpm column and under are really high.
I would lower the whole 2000rpm column until the idle load is around 26 degrees.
the 1500rpm column until the idle load is 17 degrees
and the 800-1200 closer to 14-16 degrees.
the 500 can actually go back up a little to 16ish in timing and that is to help catch the idle if the engine stumbles.
That is just a rough start before you get it tuned. the less timing will be safer and see how it runs and go from there, the tuner will see how the engine responds but never start high on timing.
I wouldn't start with the timing numbers you posted, I would expect it to start misfiring when getting on and off the throttle if it idles well at all.
I appreciate the help, ended up lowing the 800-2000 map to great effect.(not quite to the degrees you stated but that gave an idea for how far it can go) Idles smoother and low down drivability feels less like industrial equipment. The map before smoothing just after dyno tuning, we started at 1200 and worked up to 4000rpm at which point we stopped.
Got some time on the dyno, we made it through most of the map to 4000rpm/5psi before the car started puking oil out of the 3rd pcv port on the sump. After that the tuner roughed out the rest of the map to hold it over until i come back with a better clutch and pcv system.
After smoothing out the igniton table and using everybody's advice the car drives much closer to stock, theres still a bunch to fine tune but it's daily driveable now.
Replaced the plain glasspack with this stainless steel 3" to 4". Welding the worlds thinnest stainless steel onto the 14ga mild steel didnt turn out pretty up close but it's satisfied my inner ricer. Not brilliantly centered
After installing a longer pcv line to the sump port the oil spray under boost problems have been solved. Closed all the firewall holes left from removing the oem wiring harnesses and cleaned up some of the loom, also finally made a panel to hold the switches.
Both switchs share the load of; Afr gauge, knock gauge, fuel pump, Hvac display ecu, Radiator fan, and make the start button live. Power comes from the electric seat wiring, the reasoning being that it's already fused and relayed KOEO designed around high amp use. So far the fuses have been coping.
Got some insulation over the passenger area along the exhausts route in an attempt to keep the cabin from heating. Marked the bumper to make sure every section would be aligned Drilled at each corner to make a round edges aswell as a relief for the angle grinders vertical cuts, this photo is after a little work with the wood file Its not done yet as the vents need more smoothing and the paint was slapped on after a 5 minute sanding job. Theres a plasic sheet to direct air, though it could use a little more finessing.
The air going into the engine bay needs to go somewhere other then under the car so a hood vents in the works, it will probably be a series of small holes similar to what Jaguars done on their special sedan. There dosent seem to be any good options for venting the hood and keeping stock lines.
Removing the passenger airbag left the perfect space for the ECU, and the cover unbolts easily. A plastic sheet acts as a plate that the ecu is then mounted to, it uses 2 of the airbag mount points and has a flap that runs up the backside of the ecu to insulate from heater vents.
The cover was insulated, the management system acts up when the interiors baking in the sun so hopefully this will mitigate some of that. Even if that dosent pan out this is the only good spot, the stock ecu was thinner so this one wouldnt fit well in that location
The motor started knocking.
I'm done at this point, the cars getting parted out. If anybody wants anything off of it like manual swap or Turbo setup PM me.
I don't blame you... You've got so much work in that car it's discouraging to have setbacks like this. Best of luck with whatever you choose to do with it sir.
It's hard to justify a second rebuild in 4 months, but hopefully the parts live on in another 1uz and someone can use this thread to help put together their own turbo build.
Theres still some hope for the chassis since the part out only really applies to bigger ticket items, I've been thinking of a 1gz v12 swap with the stock 5 speed auto down the line.
08-23-19, 10:22 AM
