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Sweet progress! I'm hoping to catch up to you soon.
Have you tried a restrictor on the turbo oil feed? It solved the oil burning issue I was having.
Both turbos were running restrictors, I know these particular ebay turbos had spent some amount of time at very low or no oil pressure when they were on the rear mount. So I rebuilt them yesterday to mild success with less smoke(not huge clouds). Today restictors were removed which helped a bit more, It looks like restrictors were helping oil pool up in the housing when the car was turned off which led to puddles of oil forming in the exhaust.
This was the better shaft of the 2.
The rebuild was not 100% because I learned how not to seat one of the exhaust side shaft seals and ended up reusing the original. And one of the shafts had deep marring of the bearing surface that was too deep to fix. As a result I bought a pair of backup turbos for if/when these wear out.
The bottom of the engine was getting drenched in oil due to a cam seal that decided to give up, went ahead and pulled the cam gear off and fixed that. Still some leaks but not as much.
In an effort to stop the car from burning oil and smoking I bought 2 new turbos, this way there is no wondering about damage on the shaft or other variables. Naturally the turbos immediately started smoking profusely.
Above is at idle, around 3000 rpm it looked like a forest fire.
The only 2 things left to do is rebuild the new turbos(with slightly better components) and move to a larger 12an/ 3/4 return line over the current 10an/ 5/8.
That is quite a bit of oil, if you are pushing that much out with different turbo's the problem might be too much oil vs not a big enough drain.
a 10an drain should be fine for one turbo, but if you are running both into the same drain then yeah you would want to go to 12an then, and/or adjust the feed line sizes with a restrictor.
what size are your feed lines? if you are running dual 4an without restrictors you might want to go down to dual 3an line or run the 4 an with a large restrictor before each turbo if they are Journal bearing (don't use the tiny restrictor for ball bearing units, if you are Journal bearing there is a larger one or drill a smaller one out to the right size).
That is quite a bit of oil, if you are pushing that much out with different turbo's the problem might be too much oil vs not a big enough drain.
a 10an drain should be fine for one turbo, but if you are running both into the same drain then yeah you would want to go to 12an then, and/or adjust the feed line sizes with a restrictor.
what size are your feed lines? if you are running dual 4an without restrictors you might want to go down to dual 3an line or run the 4 an with a large restrictor before each turbo if they are Journal bearing (don't use the tiny restrictor for ball bearing units, if you are Journal bearing there is a larger one or drill a smaller one out to the right size).
After the rebuild the old turbos looked like this:
They still leaked oil but clearly not by the same degree. The oil returns are individual 10an for each turbo depositing at the front of the sump on either side of the crank pulley. A potential problem is the end of the return lines nearly horizontal, but that is how it must be for how the return bungs fit into the sump.
Feed lines: 4an T off of the oil filter housing, with 4an going to each turbo. Tried drilling out the restrictor a little but and wallowing out the drain fitting to be square instead of round aswell. One recommendation was a 1.5mm restrictor but I'm hesitant considering these are journal bearing turbos, on the other hand 1uz's run in excess of 100psi oil pressure and idle around 70-80psi warm
That is good it has a 10an drain for each turbo, I don't think the nearly horizontal part will do it as long as it has some slope and isn't a sharp bend.
I would try 3an lines and/or rebuilding the turbo's, and if all else fails I would check for crank case pressure which can cause draining issues.
That is good it has a 10an drain for each turbo, I don't think the nearly horizontal part will do it as long as it has some slope and isn't a sharp bend.
I would try 3an lines and/or rebuilding the turbo's, and if all else fails I would check for crank case pressure which can cause draining issues.
After talking with somebody I'm 70% sure its crankcase pressure, it would explain why the car is beltching oil from every seam, and theres a host of smaller details that point towards it. I will do a test at some point this week and get it squared away
After talking with somebody I'm 70% sure its crankcase pressure, it would explain why the car is beltching oil from every seam, and theres a host of smaller details that point towards it. I will do a test at some point this week and get it squared away
i'm just trying to learn here, when you guys say crank case pressure you mean it's too high? how do you go about fixing that? bigger PCV or something?
i'm just trying to learn here, when you guys say crank case pressure you mean it's too high? how do you go about fixing that? bigger PCV or something?
Crank case pressure being too high can be an issue, after all its pressure and ideally you would have no crank case pressure because a vacuum would be pulling it out(which is is what all pcv systems do, they uses engine vacuum to pull out crank case vapors). The vapors are combustion gasses making there way past the pistons from the combustion chamber into the crank case, these gasses are corrosive and contaminate the engine oil. Turbo and high mileage engines will typically have more gasses get into the crankcase(combustion gas leaking past the piston is known a Blowby) Having too much crank pressure will blow out seals all around the engine, rear mains, crank, cam, oilpan, sump etc., also this pressure can be an issue for turbos when they are gravity draining oil into a sump or oilpan, the pressure can be great enough to keep the oil from flowing out of the turbo.
How do you fix it? Ideally you put new rings on the pistons. Otherwise you make sure your pcv system is not clogged and is free flowing with a good vacuum source.
Crank case pressure being too high can be an issue, after all its pressure and ideally you would have no crank case pressure because a vacuum would be pulling it out(which is is what all pcv systems do, they uses engine vacuum to pull out crank case vapors). The vapors are combustion gasses making there way past the pistons from the combustion chamber into the crank case, these gasses are corrosive and contaminate the engine oil. Turbo and high mileage engines will typically have more gasses get into the crankcase(combustion gas leaking past the piston is known a Blowby) Having too much crank pressure will blow out seals all around the engine, rear mains, crank, cam, oilpan, sump etc., also this pressure can be an issue for turbos when they are gravity draining oil into a sump or oilpan, the pressure can be great enough to keep the oil from flowing out of the turbo.
How do you fix it? Ideally you put new rings on the pistons. Otherwise you make sure your pcv system is not clogged and is free flowing with a good vacuum source.
Yeah that is a pretty good explanation right there. a little bit is normal to have and the pcv will pull a vacuum and get it out of there, but if you have a ring issue etc.. there will be too much and the pcv won't be able to keep up.
once the crank case has pressure, the oil literally stops in the drain line, the turbo backs up and spits out oil resulting in a James Bond type smoke screen.
I would pull the PCV and have a big breather on both ports at a test to see if it helps. If you see a large amount of smoke/vapors coming out of them, do the leakdown test.
Its not common for 1uz's to have ring issues in normal usage, but it can happen like any other engine for various reasons.
Hopefully that isn't the case, but at least 1uz's are easy to find still and you can drop another one in vs rebuilding.
I have a similar issue with the non vvti 2jzge I am building, I think the rings are bad and now I have to tear it down again cause it's really hard to find another one in good condition
Yeah that is a pretty good explanation right there. a little bit is normal to have and the pcv will pull a vacuum and get it out of there, but if you have a ring issue etc.. there will be too much and the pcv won't be able to keep up.
once the crank case has pressure, the oil literally stops in the drain line, the turbo backs up and spits out oil resulting in a James Bond type smoke screen.
I would pull the PCV and have a big breather on both ports at a test to see if it helps. If you see a large amount of smoke/vapors coming out of them, do the leakdown test.
Its not common for 1uz's to have ring issues in normal usage, but it can happen like any other engine for various reasons.
Hopefully that isn't the case, but at least 1uz's are easy to find still and you can drop another one in vs rebuilding.
I have a similar issue with the non vvti 2jzge I am building, I think the rings are bad and now I have to tear it down again cause it's really hard to find another one in good condition
I've definately got a bunch of blowby because at idle i see smoke coming out of both pcv ports, and I know this motors overheated pretty bad in the past. Ive been thinking about picking up a second motor anyways before they get expensive(seems like sc's are climbing in value and 1uz's are being used as swaps more). Also would like a second motor to build another set of turbo exhaust manifolds, figure someone might want them.
I've definately got a bunch of blowby because at idle i see smoke coming out of both pcv ports, and I know this motors overheated pretty bad in the past. Ive been thinking about picking up a second motor anyways before they get expensive(seems like sc's are climbing in value and 1uz's are being used as swaps more). Also would like a second motor to build another set of turbo exhaust manifolds, figure someone might want them.
manifolds?! YES PLEASE! I'll be your first customer! my buddy and i will probably get bored of stock 1UZ for drifting this summer and we're planning on putting some shanghai spooli bois on it for sure.
Second motor arrived, it's from a 1991 ls400 with 180k. I'm on the wall about weather to do a full rebuild before I put it in or just replace the headgastets and headstuds. Basically it's just a question of how much time I want to wait while I save money.
The current motor is in the process of being pulled, I'm thinking a particular piston had something happen. When looking at blowby with the oilcap off it was pulsing at idle with a piston instead of being a steady stream of smoke.
For whatever reason I cant seem to upload photos, the site gets to 90% and refuses to budge. But a little progress is still being made, steering rack got repainted with solid aluminum battleversion mounts, got the old motor stripped of it's useful parts, and mocked up the engine with the motor mounts flipped backwards which will push the drivetrain back an inch.
With the engine moved back the oilpan hits the rear section of the subframe so that's going to get notched out about 3/4 of an inch along its,"lip".
The junkyard motor I was sent had no compression so they said they'd send another one before July, in the mean time I'm attempting to not buy anything so theres nothing fun to do, just cleaning.
Mostly I've been mulling over time consuming ideas(move the motor back an inch[as mentioned above], flatbottom the chassis, cut out the spare tire well to accommodate a rake to said flatbottom, duct the radiator, modify the front bumper for better airflow, duct the radiator out the hood but maintain the original design[not convinced on how to do that yet], dial in the coilover heights so the front tires dont bottom out on the chassis, cut the front fender and lower the wheel arch an inch so the car can sit higher with better geometry but still look low.
Will update with pics of the steering rack if I can figure out how to get the site to work with my phone.
04-29-19, 07:02 PM
