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Alright fellas, before the update I just wanna give some words. I'm trying my best to put as much emotion and details into this thread because I want what I'm going through to be the example of what going NAT with no mechanical experience looks like. In the years I researched going NAT and all the builds they were so quick and had very small detail (not all of them obviously). I would read through build threads and think it seems so simple but little did I know there were tons of small things that came before said step. This is a difficult journey for me gentlemen. This is my dream and to those young college students who also have this dream, let this thread be the prime example of what your experience will be like.
Now onto the actual update.
Here are the issues I got going on.
1st) I'm struggling to get the situation with the union bolt figured out, as seen in the previous pic posted, I do have a janky setup but it many say it will work. I'm currently trying to get the stock union bolt off but it seems I may need a universal joint to break it off. Should be simple
2nd) The XS power kit is giving me so many issues and costing me so much money. Now I'm not putting any blame on XS power. As stated I am someone who has never done something like this before so I'm sure people with the proper experience can make this kit work just fine. Here are the current issues.
- The turbo and oil return situation is by far the biggest barrier, and the most costly. so far trying to fix this situation has cost me around 400 dollars... this is simply for proper fittings, oil lines, and flanges. I had this pipe welded on to have the issues with the oil return figured out. This pipe cost me 271 dollars. Not only that but it now is too long and causes the return line to be too long and will no longer fit. Currently thinking of ideas before re-welding for 80 dollars. Got extended studs due to the T4 spacer being needed to allow the return line to not get cooked alive. Once I got them on the manifold they screwed in it just right, until I tried to put the spacer or the turbo back on. They don't fit. for some reason, the studs don't go straight up, they sit at an angle. Instead of them being a straight 90 degree with the manifold, they are at a 85 or 80 degree now. I suspect this being due to maybe bad tapping with the manifold. These studs are 10mm 1.50pitch
-The intercooler piping is confusing, here's what I got going on so far with it Here's the front, got the goofy pipe on but as you can see it almost rubs with the bottom pipe. Don't know what to do with the cold side piping, you can see where it just has a big space between the bottom 90 pipe and the BOV pipe. Did the thingy. Got the straight on it You can see how the hot side piping comes out right here. pretty low but I'm sure once I hook it up to the turbo, it should hook up and fit nicely.
These should be the only issues right now. I hope at least.
If it was not apparent to begin with, this build is somewhat taking a toll on me. Thought this would be a simple 2 or 3-week job as seen by other build threads, now it scares me this is becoming a 2-3 month job. I want to get this done guys. I don't think I can quick no matter how much blood and sweat is put into it (I live in AZ so there's a lot of sweat). This NA-T build is everything to me, so it's going to get done.
I hope you guys can help me out with these issues because I got no one near me that has any experience with 2JZs or turbo builds.
If there's anything I can say to end this large update. I can't say I would recommend this kit to rookie car builders.
This is what i used for my oil solution temporarily was about 20 bucks in parts at home depot and a 80 dollar kit online...
I would go that route but I can just have the current stuff I have rewelded for like 80 bucks. Might as well get some use out of it I guess. Also I saw that engine bay picture you posted. The IC piping looks so simple wish I had it
Keep up the work young man! A lot of people have been where you are at. I know it sounds counter intuitive but sometimes you need to take a few hours off and think about the problem. I too jumped into my single turbo conversion on my 1J without any real prior knowledge. Fortunately in Minnesota we have a long time to have the car down, pressure free. You just can't be bothered by sub zero temps outside haha. Also, it will feel SO MUCH BETTER when you get this thing running and are able to take pride in your accomplishment while driving it around.
Alright fellas, before the update I just wanna give some words. I'm trying my best to put as much emotion and details into this thread because I want what I'm going through to be the example of what going NAT with no mechanical experience looks like. In the years I researched going NAT and all the builds they were so quick and had very small detail (not all of them obviously). I would read through build threads and think it seems so simple but little did I know there were tons of small things that came before said step. This is a difficult journey for me gentlemen. This is my dream and to those young college students who also have this dream, let this thread be the prime example of what your experience will be like.
Now onto the actual update.
Here are the issues I got going on.
1st) I'm struggling to get the situation with the union bolt figured out, as seen in the previous pic posted, I do have a janky setup but it many say it will work. I'm currently trying to get the stock union bolt off but it seems I may need a universal joint to break it off. Should be simple
2nd) The XS power kit is giving me so many issues and costing me so much money. Now I'm not putting any blame on XS power. As stated I am someone who has never done something like this before so I'm sure people with the proper experience can make this kit work just fine. Here are the current issues.
- The turbo and oil return situation is by far the biggest barrier, and the most costly. so far trying to fix this situation has cost me around 400 dollars... this is simply for proper fittings, oil lines, and flanges. I had this pipe welded on to have the issues with the oil return figured out. This pipe cost me 271 dollars. Not only that but it now is too long and causes the return line to be too long and will no longer fit. Currently thinking of ideas before re-welding for 80 dollars. Got extended studs due to the T4 spacer being needed to allow the return line to not get cooked alive. Once I got them on the manifold they screwed in it just right, until I tried to put the spacer or the turbo back on. They don't fit. for some reason, the studs don't go straight up, they sit at an angle. Instead of them being a straight 90 degree with the manifold, they are at a 85 or 80 degree now. I suspect this being due to maybe bad tapping with the manifold. These studs are 10mm 1.50pitch
-The intercooler piping is confusing, here's what I got going on so far with it Here's the front, got the goofy pipe on but as you can see it almost rubs with the bottom pipe. Don't know what to do with the cold side piping, you can see where it just has a big space between the bottom 90 pipe and the BOV pipe. Did the thingy. Got the straight on it You can see how the hot side piping comes out right here. pretty low but I'm sure once I hook it up to the turbo, it should hook up and fit nicely.
These should be the only issues right now. I hope at least.
If it was not apparent to begin with, this build is somewhat taking a toll on me. Thought this would be a simple 2 or 3-week job as seen by other build threads, now it scares me this is becoming a 2-3 month job. I want to get this done guys. I don't think I can quick no matter how much blood and sweat is put into it (I live in AZ so there's a lot of sweat). This NA-T build is everything to me, so it's going to get done.
I hope you guys can help me out with these issues because I got no one near me that has any experience with 2JZs or turbo builds.
If there's anything I can say to end this large update. I can't say I would recommend this kit to rookie car builders.
Hope to hear from you all, thanks guys.
The cold side pipe has a gap in it because the kit is made for you to use your stock MAF with an adapter. You may have seen the adapter in the kit. You can get a straight pipe and a couple of couplers to bridge the gap. I wound up having a short piece of an old intake pipe welded in to make up the gap.
I definitely wouldn't have had such a long piece of pipe welded for the oil return. the lowest cost fix would be to measure the distance between the oil return fitting on the oil pan and the bottom of the turbo line that you had welded to the turbo. Take that measurement to a pipe fitting company that makes AN lines and have the oil return line that you have cut and refinished to fit the distance that you need.
I wouldn't worry about your cold and hot side piping touch. Mine touch. Just make sure that your clamps are nice and tight and you won't have any issues there.
The Manifold screw holes really suck man... Cheapest fix there is going to be drilling out the holes that are tapped and use a nut and bolt instead of studs...
Your oil union bolt is fine. I wouldn't worry about it at all.
The cold side pipe has a gap in it because the kit is made for you to use your stock MAF with an adapter. You may have seen the adapter in the kit. You can get a straight pipe and a couple of couplers to bridge the gap. I wound up having a short piece of an old intake pipe welded in to make up the gap.
I definitely wouldn't have had such a long piece of pipe welded for the oil return. the lowest cost fix would be to measure the distance between the oil return fitting on the oil pan and the bottom of the turbo line that you had welded to the turbo. Take that measurement to a pipe fitting company that makes AN lines and have the oil return line that you have cut and refinished to fit the distance that you need.
I wouldn't worry about your cold and hot side piping touch. Mine touch. Just make sure that your clamps are nice and tight and you won't have any issues there.
The Manifold screw holes really suck man... Cheapest fix there is going to be drilling out the holes that are tapped and use a nut and bolt instead of studs...
Your oil union bolt is fine. I wouldn't worry about it at all.
You really are the MVP you know that? Thanks man. Alright so Im going to see about some different paths to take with the manifold screws. I got some ideas that should work but if not I shall do your method.
Theres a turbo shop nearby that has all kinds of piping. Im going to talk to them today and get some stuff.
And for the oil line. I imagine recutting yhe line would cost aroun 50 bucks or so. So Im going to talk to my welder and see if they can do something for me around that price. If they can. Boy oh boy will we have progress for once on this fourm lol.
Also quick question bout the bolt. Howd yall take it off? Heres what Im tryig to use going in from the top.
Thanks my man. If anyone else also go some advide and words please let me know!
I do read all posts its just Im super busy especially with the car so dont think yall go un-read. I read every single one.
The first time I removed the Union bolt, I had the intake manifold off and just used a normal ratchet without the attachments that you have. Second time I did it with the engine out of the car. You might look into handling this particular job from beneath the car. It might be easier.
The first time I removed the Union bolt, I had the intake manifold off and just used a normal ratchet without the attachments that you have. Second time I did it with the engine out of the car. You might look into handling this particular job from beneath the car. It might be easier.
Dang. Sounds like it was a PITA. Hoping I dont have to take off the intake again as I already put it back on after changing the injectors. Would it be a bad idea to put a wrench on it and impact break it with a hammer? I assume that is a bad idea but just thought Id ask
The previous owner was using this as his intake. The area below the red tape is just the right fit for the gap with the piping. Should I cut it and tap the small hole with some hose on it at the bottom? Or just pay 50 bucks for a 45 pipe.
07-13-19, 08:53 PM
Big Update Time!
