badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

just throwing it out there. i suspect your oil level light (next to engine light) is on because your tach isn't working. mine did same thing. also the windshield washer light came on at same time. once rpm is working, those two lights turn off.

badblackgs

iTrader: (1)

did i read correct earlier where you mentioned you took the intake manifold off? if so, make sure those two ten mm. bolts that hold the brown ground wires on the lower portion of the intake are tight and grounded. those are crucial grounds for the throttle control system along with earth grounds for some sensors. and make sure your engine has a good negative ground from body to block. i also noticed that the pic your dash indicators for trans selection aren't illuminated.

VIP161

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I haven't ran the tach wire yet because Ive been wanting to fix the prior issues. Good to know that it is related to the tach wire. My windshield washer light is on because its actually low. Its been low for a few weeks now. I just havent topped it off because I wanted to make sure I would be able to use it with the intercooler pipes I'm running.

VIP161

iTrader: (3)

I was going over some of the Toyota Aristo schematics on the wilbo66 website and realized that the motor has more grounding points than I had realized. Tonight, I had put the starter back on. While I was down there I was taking my time to inspect for any missed grounding points. I did remember removing the intake manifold grounds off when I removed it but I also remember putting them back on when I put the manifold back together.

I did find that a ground wire was missing while I was under the car. Its the one that goes from the engine block to the chassis. I pulled one off of my GE motor and installed it. Then I started the car up on the first crank. No check engine light. No shift lock. Yes shift position indicator. The car even moves on its own power now. For good measure, I even turned it off and on several times and it was good. Grounding points are no joke.

The picture above was taken when the motor was idling with the 2JZGE orange and black terminator caps. No trans selection indicators and had shift lock. The only reason I swapped those those caps was because it was recommended in other Aristo swap threads.

For the record, DO NOT SWAP THE TERMINATOR CAPS. USE THE ONES THAT COME WITH THE WIRING HARNESS ON THE ARISTO MOTORSET.

I am very close to being completely done with the swap. The motor still doesn't idle on its own. I have a friend who owns four Supras. He recommends I play around with the sensor located to the right of the throttle body if you're looking at the engine from the front. Any ideas?

VIP161

iTrader: (3)

Quick update for the day. Everything is pretty much hooked up except for the power steering and tach wire. I decided to finally take it out for a spin around the block. It starts perfectly. No shift lock. No limp mode. With the MAP sensor hooked up to an intake, the motor is no longer in limp mode. With the exhaust still disconnected, I decided to take it out for a spin around the block. I am very pleased with the results! I would like to thank LETSRIDE and everyone else who had given me good advice on this. I took this project on completely on my own. Once it stops raining, I do plan on taking a few more pictures and maybe even a video clip or two of the results.

VIP161

iTrader: (3)

I decided to save the tach wiring for last. I took a test drive with the wire disconnected. The two things I noticed when this wire is not connected is that the low oil level light stays on and of course you have no RPM signal for the tach. In the picture above you can see the JDM igniter plug with the missing plug on the third hole from the left. Also pictured is the original tach signal wire that I pulled from the 2JZGE harness.


In this picture you can see the connector that you will be splicing the other end of the tach wire to. The connector is not one of the ones you'll be using for the ECU. Its located next to the ECU and is the one closest to the front of the engine. The wire you'll be splicing in to is the black wire with yellow strip on the bottom row, second one in. You can see its to the right of the empty hole on that bottom row. next to the lock tab.


There is the green that I ran from the igniter and now spliced in to the black wire with yellow strip for a tach signal. I recommend soldering and shrink wrapping to complete the job.


As you can see, the RPM is above 0 at idle and the only warning light I have lit is the one for the windshield washer fluid but thats because its empty. I keep forgetting to fill it up. I hope this helps those who run a forum search and come up with a lot of hits on threads with people asking about how to do it.

VIP161

iTrader: (3)

Since the swap, the current issues I am having are with the transmission and fuel guage. When I bought the motor, they had told me they had drained the transmission pan. I know it holds about 2 quarts of oil. So I bought two quarts of Toyota type iV oil and filled it. It runs fine with no CEL for a few miles with a smoothe shifting transmission. I then start to feel it shift hard up and down. Then the CEL light turns on and the motor goes into limp mode leaving me with only 1000 rpm and the gas pedal at full throttle to get home. The next day I put two more quarts in there and drive it around again. No CEL and the trans shifts smoothe. After a few miles of driving, I feel the hard shifts and the same thing happens so I put a couple more quarts in there. I take if for a test drive and its normal. The hard shifts come back and I'm back to square one. I might just have to flush the transmission this weekend and figure out what the fluid capacity is for the transmission and torque converter.

My second issue is the fuel gauge. Its reading a quarter tank even after I have completely filled the gas tank. I am using the Aristo fuel pump assembly. I have not taken it back out to inspect the float so that might be something I'll do next week.

Mind you, everything is hooked up on the car except for the exhaust. Its basically open exhaust from the midpipe on. Could that be contributing to the issue I'm having with the transmission?

Letsride

Are you checking the the trans level with the engine hot? You need to verify this before you keep adding fluid to it. As far as the gas gauge goes......there is a chance that the float could be binding up on the line that you connected for the passenger side kidney of the tank.

VIP161

iTrader: (3)

I'm actually checking it with the motor idling as it warms up. Never at operating temperature. I've put in about 8 quarts already. At operating temperature is when the CEL turns on and goes into limp mode. I'm not experienced with automatic transmissions so I hope I'm not messing anything up. I'll check it again this morning before I take it to the exhaust shop.

As for the fuel gauge, I kind of had a feeling it was that. I'll have to pull the hanger back out and inspect. When I had put it on, It kept giving me a bit of resistance. I kept pulling it out and rotating it until it dropped perfectly but the metal lid where the small screws go through only sits one way because of the bolt pattern. I'll have to pull it back out and re-check it to make sure its not sitting on that rubber line.

VIP161

iTrader: (3)

I jumped the E1 and Tc pins in the diagnostic port in the engine bay. I was able to get a few blinks from the CEL light. Once I was done I did disconnect the battery cable for about 30 mins to clear the codes. Here is what I got.

14 Turbocharger Pressure
14 Ignition signal - No "IG" or "IGF" ignition signal to ECM from ignitior several times in succession (IGT1, IGT4, IGF for – FSE) - NO "IGF" SIGNAL TO ECM - IGNITER/IGNITER circuit - IGNITER AND IGNITION COIL/circuit
14 (2C-TE) Timing control system malfunction
-MIL Code 14 has three different definitions. Here is what I think might have been the cause of code 14. The intercooler pipe coming out of the aluminum charge pipe for the turbos had popped out of the coupler. Since I had run out of T-bolt clamps, I was using the basic screw on kind from my local auto parts store. I am now looking to replace those with T-bolt clamps since this pipe has come off more than once. As for the timing control, when swapping the motor in, I did swap over some items from the 2JZGE motor that were still fairly new. One of those items was the VVT-i solenoid. I compared the two and there are slight differences between the two including the part numbers. So I put the original one back in.

19 Acceleration Pedal Position (AAP) Sensor/Switch circuit malfunction
-I have not checked the sensor itself for propper voltage. The connector is on nice and tight. The throttle cable was very loose and had actually come off the bracket. It was adjusted to propper tension and tightened down the two nuts that secure the throttle cable on to the bracket.

59 VVT-i Valve
-As mentioned in code 14, I had the VVTi solenoid from the 2JZGE motor on the GTE motor so I changed it back to how it was originally. I am now confident that they are not interchangeable.

All codes were cleared. During the jumping process I noticed that my fuel guage went from being stuck at 1/4 tank to empty and now my low fuel light stays on. I just filled the tank 8 miles ago so it can't be empty. I havent gone on a test drive to make sure the motor is good yet. I'll report back with the results.

VIP161

iTrader: (3)

For those of you who have Aristo swaps and don't have a JOBD scanner and have a CEL and are looking to get a MIL code, please refer to the picture above. On the left side you have your diagnostic port located in the engine bay by the ECU box. The right side is located under the driver side kick panel. It was easier for me to use the one in the engine bay. You simply grab a non plastic coated paper clip and insert each end into pins E1 and Tc with the motor completely off. With the paper clip still in there, you turn the key over to the "ON" position with the motor off. You'll notice all your cluster lights going crazy but pay attention to the check engine light as it will start blinking. The number of blinks determine the digits for the code its throwing. For example:
BLINK PAUSE BLINK BLINK BLINK BLINK PAUSE means its code 14. It will cycle through over and over. If you're seeing more blinks, you probably have more than once code.

Please refer to the attachment for a list of MIL codes with definitions.

VIP161

iTrader: (3)

Anyone see whats wrong with this picture? Since my issues are related to the APPS sensor and ETCS motor, i decided to remove the throttle body so I can take it in to work to have the sensors tested. As I was putting it in a bag, I noticed that two of the four pins are bent. One more bent than the other. The pin that is most bent just happens to be the one that gets power from the ECU. I'm still taking it in to get tested and hopefully this solves everything.