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Props for getting out there and having fun! I'm no expert, but from the looks of things more speed into your entries with a good hard flick may get you moving and grooving a little better!
you need to transfer the weight to drift, you're just turning into the turn which is just making the car understeer. flick away from the turn and back into it to transfer the weight and get the rear of the car swinging, then floor it, counter steer full lock and keep giving it the beans. 1uz is plenty of power to drift, 240s drift with half the power. also weld the diff and give it more beans, especially since you said you have sticky decent tires.
Thanks for the pointers guys, I’m excited about learning the limits. This motor is nearly clapped out, 250k on the clock and compression is low. I’ve tested it cold and hot, dry and wet. It takes like 13-15 cranks to build up to 170, which is a lot, and the initial hit is low, like 25-35 psi.
Also, when I did flick it harder, it got loose, weight transferred, I counter steered, it leaned way over loaded the outside wheel, which gripped hard and slingshot me around in a spin. This prolly isn’t the right place to discuss drifting technique
My account manager, wife, suffered a momentary lapse in judgement and agreed to let me swap it, so I bought this.
The 1UZ is out and sold it for $200 to a guy doing a 4Runner swap. There are a variety of opinions on the 1uz and it’s capabilities and potential. For me : the cost to make power gains was too high, simple as rebuild would’ve cost me as much as the LS I bought, and would’ve at best got it back to original power levels. And to make gains over that would’ve been even more expensive, cams and pistons to start, blah blah blah. I’m not a Lexus purist, it was a good motor, and I’m certain it would be better suited for a lighter car like a 240 but this car is not light and needs grunt!
I have spoken.
Bought the Sikky LS Mount kit and test fitted the LS.
It fit with a little bit of a massage. The 4l60e just barely fits between the “frame rails”. The pan can be seen hanging down below the frame. In order to make this truck transmission fit, I had to change the shift selector shaft to a fourth gen camaro shaft which doesn’t stick out as far, and therefore had to use a camaro shifter to get the selector shaft and shifter detents to align for accuracy. There is almost zero clearance between the trans and the frame. Sikky didn’t make a trans mount for this transmission so on a whim I decided to see if the Lexus A340e Mount would be close.
It was very close. Too close. I decided to sell the auto and begin a manual conversion. Yeah, , I know. But FabBot makes a kit for AR5 transmissions from the Colorado, there was one in my local yard, at $115 out the door made this decision easy. Replacements for this trans will be cheap, adapter is not that expensive, got a slightly used corvette clutch and flywheel for dirt cheap. Even with the clutch pedal from drift motion and manual brake pedal from Lexus and master cylinder from Toyota(87 Land Cruiser) I’m still in the manual for less than half of a t56, and about the same cost as a CD009 trans alone. Also, the Holley Terminator, which I’ll use to run the LS, is about $300 cheaper without automatic transmission control.
Sounds like you've got a big project and a great time on your hands. Looking forward to seeing more! The AR5 seems to be a more popular option than ever.
Thanks RudySC
it is a BIG project, I keep making it bigger. I am working on that too, keeping side projects to a minimum so I can make big picture progress.
It's a long, deep, dark, expensive hole that can be dug if you're not careful haha. We've all been there, but it seems like you're getting a good grasp on things. Best of luck! It'll be well worth it in the end.
Motor is in and the hood will close thanks to the ICT billet alternator bracket. This is the only one that allows the bigger than 102A alt, due to backspacing.
This one is a 145A alternator from the Yukon donor. I’m going to need it for my Wally 450 and Volvo power steering pump.
Next I cut a hole in the tunnel and installed the Chevy Colorado shifter, then I tried the fit of the console.
Notice how the shifter lines up with the steering wheel, neutral position, I heard somewhere that this is good set up for cars. Also the ergonomics of this set up is decent, the throw distance is ok for a pickup.
03-20-19, 10:43 AM
, I know. But FabBot makes a kit for AR5 transmissions from the Colorado, there was one in my local yard, at $115 out the door made this decision easy. Replacements for this trans will be cheap, adapter is not that expensive, got a slightly used corvette clutch and flywheel for dirt cheap. Even with the clutch pedal from drift motion and manual brake pedal from Lexus and master cylinder from Toyota(87 Land Cruiser) I’m still in the manual for less than half of a t56, and about the same cost as a CD009 trans alone. Also, the Holley Terminator, which I’ll use to run the LS, is about $300 cheaper without automatic transmission control.
