GT3000 1998 gs300 2jz-gte swap
#16
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you get an Aristo power steering reservoir and it's mounting bracket, it will be 100% bolt on install to the oem location on the shock tower.
Otherwise you'll just be making brackets to fit up any other powersteering reservoir you would like to use.
The core of the Aristo radiator isn't any larger than the GS, it just has a different fan configuration, speed controller, and an external reservoir mounted behind the grille.
Just make sure your OEM cooling system is in 100% top condition. Any power level you could make on the twins isn't a concern, and even once going single the GS radiator is plenty capable of cooling 500hp+ without concern as long as it is all in new/good condition.
If the the Heatercore is clean/no blockage, with New OEM Radiator, New OEM or TRD thermostat, New OEM/Aisin/Gates GTE Waterpump, New OEM Radiator Cap or as long as the rest of the system is all new you can use a Blitz, Greddy, Sard, ARC, or other 1.1-1.3bar cap (but I would never just put a higher pressure cap on an aging radiator/hoses/cooling system).
Run Toyota Red straight and cut it yourself with Distilled water to the lowest acceptable coolant percentage for your area/season (70% water/30% coolant is a great performing combo), and also run a bottle of Redline water wetter. And you should never have any issues with the cars temps twins or singled. If you ever start making big power down the road then a thicker aluminum radiator would be in order.
Otherwise you'll just be making brackets to fit up any other powersteering reservoir you would like to use.
The core of the Aristo radiator isn't any larger than the GS, it just has a different fan configuration, speed controller, and an external reservoir mounted behind the grille.
Just make sure your OEM cooling system is in 100% top condition. Any power level you could make on the twins isn't a concern, and even once going single the GS radiator is plenty capable of cooling 500hp+ without concern as long as it is all in new/good condition.
If the the Heatercore is clean/no blockage, with New OEM Radiator, New OEM or TRD thermostat, New OEM/Aisin/Gates GTE Waterpump, New OEM Radiator Cap or as long as the rest of the system is all new you can use a Blitz, Greddy, Sard, ARC, or other 1.1-1.3bar cap (but I would never just put a higher pressure cap on an aging radiator/hoses/cooling system).
Run Toyota Red straight and cut it yourself with Distilled water to the lowest acceptable coolant percentage for your area/season (70% water/30% coolant is a great performing combo), and also run a bottle of Redline water wetter. And you should never have any issues with the cars temps twins or singled. If you ever start making big power down the road then a thicker aluminum radiator would be in order.
#17
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any more advice is greatly appreciated, I just cant wait to drive it. Right now Im in the process of adding and replacing hoses ( lower radiator hose, heater hoses, run the fuel line, etc)
Major things That I have left to buy is brakes and tires and i am not going to try and break the bank on them. Also I will slowly upgrade the suspension parts (control arms, tie rod ends, sway bars all around)
For the brakes I was looking to go with the Power Stop K1079 Front/Rear Ceramic Brake Pad and Cross Drilled/Slotted Combo Rotor One-Click Brake Kit as a decent upgrade to the ones that was rusted out
I found a place on ebay called Detriot Axle and if anybody knows if these are good to get or can recommend somewhere I can get good suspension parts without me having to sell my first born, lol
Major things That I have left to buy is brakes and tires and i am not going to try and break the bank on them. Also I will slowly upgrade the suspension parts (control arms, tie rod ends, sway bars all around)
For the brakes I was looking to go with the Power Stop K1079 Front/Rear Ceramic Brake Pad and Cross Drilled/Slotted Combo Rotor One-Click Brake Kit as a decent upgrade to the ones that was rusted out
I found a place on ebay called Detriot Axle and if anybody knows if these are good to get or can recommend somewhere I can get good suspension parts without me having to sell my first born, lol
#18
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (14)
You can wait on the suspension parts if you need, but as you just lowered it on coilovers and the car is a 98 it's going to finish off what ever is left of the lower radius arm bushings pretty soon, and these are key to holding an alignment as well.
Only use OEM or MOOG for replacing the arms, links, bushings, unless you are upgrading to something better/stronger like T-demand, Ikeya Formula, Figs or the like.
DO NOT WAIT to replace the front lower ball joints, the oem's can and do break, unless you have some proof that they have been replaced very recently. For the balljoints you want to use MOOG K500102 Left and MOOG K500101 Right, they are $33 ea on Rockauto.com and here is a 5% discount code 4109787333701281
Only use OEM or MOOG for replacing the arms, links, bushings, unless you are upgrading to something better/stronger like T-demand, Ikeya Formula, Figs or the like.
DO NOT WAIT to replace the front lower ball joints, the oem's can and do break, unless you have some proof that they have been replaced very recently. For the balljoints you want to use MOOG K500102 Left and MOOG K500101 Right, they are $33 ea on Rockauto.com and here is a 5% discount code 4109787333701281
#19
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can wait on the suspension parts if you need, but as you just lowered it on coilovers and the car is a 98 it's going to finish off what ever is left of the lower radius arm bushings pretty soon, and these are key to holding an alignment as well.
Only use OEM or MOOG for replacing the arms, links, bushings, unless you are upgrading to something better/stronger like T-demand, Ikeya Formula, Figs or the like.
DO NOT WAIT to replace the front lower ball joints, the oem's can and do break, unless you have some proof that they have been replaced very recently. For the balljoints you want to use MOOG K500102 Left and MOOG K500101 Right, they are $33 ea on Rockauto.com and here is a 5% discount code 4109787333701281
Only use OEM or MOOG for replacing the arms, links, bushings, unless you are upgrading to something better/stronger like T-demand, Ikeya Formula, Figs or the like.
DO NOT WAIT to replace the front lower ball joints, the oem's can and do break, unless you have some proof that they have been replaced very recently. For the balljoints you want to use MOOG K500102 Left and MOOG K500101 Right, they are $33 ea on Rockauto.com and here is a 5% discount code 4109787333701281
#20
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since this project is moving along before I forget I want to thank all members that gave their input - it was appreciated.
Yes if you take your time and search through the forums you will find all the information you need for the swap
Updates coming soon
Yes if you take your time and search through the forums you will find all the information you need for the swap
Updates coming soon
#21
Driver School Candidate
I am currently in the middle of the same swap on my GS as we speak so I am rooting for you.
#22
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#23
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So here are a few things that I have been working on since the last update. I found a driveshaft and a power steering reservoir ( off a honda, lol) at the junkyard. I think the fitting is 5/8ths cant remember. The next step is to figure out how to do the battery cables since the battery for the aristo is on the right and the GS is on the left. We are in the homestretch and no major parts need to be ordered, so glad. Hopefully we get to fire it up this weekend, but first things first.
Driveshaft: Was $150 for the front half from the shop where I got the engine from
Here are some pictures of the process.
Cheap reservoir that works
Wanted the filter blue but im not going to worry about a color.. MAF on
Coilovers on rear
Fuel pump, assembly and return line Done
Driveshaft: Was $150 for the front half from the shop where I got the engine from
Here are some pictures of the process.
Cheap reservoir that works
Wanted the filter blue but im not going to worry about a color.. MAF on
Coilovers on rear
Fuel pump, assembly and return line Done
#24
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (14)
I doesn't matter that the battery is on the other side of an aristo because you don't use any of those cables, the starter is in the same position so connect your GS hot lead there.
And for the stock GS ground cable it will connect to the engine block under the front turbo. (use the ground cable attachment bracket off the GE engine if you left it on and only unhooked the cable from it when pulling out the GE.)
The battery cable hookup from Aristo-to-GS is Plug-and-Play.
Good progress, glad to see your almost ready to fire it up.
#27
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks ELLeon, I actually have no experience building or working on cars lucky to have a mechanic that know what he is doing, I help when I can but I am learning a lot from this whole build plus everybody on these forum have a lot of knowledge. Hopefully next week I can drive it.
#29
Pole Position
Thanks ELLeon, I actually have no experience building or working on cars lucky to have a mechanic that know what he is doing, I help when I can but I am learning a lot from this whole build plus everybody on these forum have a lot of knowledge. Hopefully next week I can drive it.
I am still learning myself, keep up the good work man. I will be getting back to my project soon, however I wont be swapping anything yet so I keep taking pointers from other builds on what to make sure to have or do.
#30
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
subscribed! seems a lot of us are wanting to tackle this swap "at home" which is awesome, @99gs3 has a ton of knowledge from what I've been reading for awhile now so it's awesome he's in here helping out. I am also in the process of collecting parts and figuring out what is all really "necessary" to do the swap reliably. Good luck and can't wait to see the progress