SC300 auto Manual swap
04-16-23, 12:20 AM
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SC300 auto Manual swap
alright hey guys, i need help im trying to swap my 1997 auto sc300 and i have plans to swapping it to a R154 manual transmission so i’m trying to buy the clutch kits and clutch slaves and little things later, so i wanna buy the bigger things first like the driveshaft and trans, so i need help figuring out where can i get a driveshaft from which car, which brand, should i go with driftmotion, can i get the measurements and which would be best
04-16-23, 11:12 PM
#2
Hello and welcome!!
I have just addressed these very questions in two currently active build threads and I encourage you to read them through to get a good idea of the rundown for what options you can pursue.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ack-sc300.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...r154-swap.html
For the driveshaft I would recommend to you, as I did to them, to have your SC300's original driveshaft modified at a professional driveline shop to extend the main barrel length by +50mm (+1.96"). The splines and joint at the end are 100% the same as those found on a 1991-2000 JZZ30 Soarer R154 front driveshaft. The splines fit into the R154 perfectly. The length of the main shaft barrel just has to be extended professionally and you will have a spot-on replica equivalent of the OEM Soarer R154 front driveshaft.
Alternatively you also find a Supra MKIII R154 front driveshaft and have that *shortened* by approximately -3/4" and it will fit perfectly. It is a much closer fit but is slightly too long until you take off that approximate length.
The driveline shop will need to re-balance whichever front driveshaft you have them modify. This needs to be done on a two-piece driveshaft balancing machine like a COETZ SE200 which will also require the SC rear driveshaft and center bearing (neither of which need any modification) in order to dial everything in and make it rotate smoothly at all speeds.
Here's the driveline shop I used to do this for my 1993 SC300's R154 swap. Find a good driveline shop in your area like this one:
https://www.drivetraincenter.info
If you are in the Los Angeles area I have used and can recommend RamJet Rear End Repair (for rear differentials) but I do not know of a shop to recommend that specifically works on driveshafts. However in southern California you WILL find several such shops that modify driveshafts.
A genuine Soarer JZZ30 R154 front driveshaft is hard to come by these days and is very expensive. It is cheaper to use one of the two above solutions to achieve the same thing.
A one-piece driveshaft can be a good solution but there is higher chance of additional driveline vibration and NVH. Aluminum or carbon fiber can cut down on that but really a modified factory two-piece is extremely strong already and is designed to absorb and mitigate NVH by Toyota.
Additionally look at options for the transmission tunnel shifter opening depending on which version of the R154 you plan to use. I address that in both of the above threads as well ^^.
Welcome to CL and luck on embarking on this project!
...
Oh, also if you are just going to swap to an R154 but not turbocharge the 2JZ-GE engine then you can use the very affordable OEM 1986-1992 Toyota Supra R154 stock clutch kit. It is more than capable of handling a non-turbo 2JZ-GE's power and torque for a very long time until you decide to go with an NA-T conversion or GTE swap.
I have just addressed these very questions in two currently active build threads and I encourage you to read them through to get a good idea of the rundown for what options you can pursue.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ack-sc300.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...r154-swap.html
For the driveshaft I would recommend to you, as I did to them, to have your SC300's original driveshaft modified at a professional driveline shop to extend the main barrel length by +50mm (+1.96"). The splines and joint at the end are 100% the same as those found on a 1991-2000 JZZ30 Soarer R154 front driveshaft. The splines fit into the R154 perfectly. The length of the main shaft barrel just has to be extended professionally and you will have a spot-on replica equivalent of the OEM Soarer R154 front driveshaft.
Alternatively you also find a Supra MKIII R154 front driveshaft and have that *shortened* by approximately -3/4" and it will fit perfectly. It is a much closer fit but is slightly too long until you take off that approximate length.
The driveline shop will need to re-balance whichever front driveshaft you have them modify. This needs to be done on a two-piece driveshaft balancing machine like a COETZ SE200 which will also require the SC rear driveshaft and center bearing (neither of which need any modification) in order to dial everything in and make it rotate smoothly at all speeds.
Here's the driveline shop I used to do this for my 1993 SC300's R154 swap. Find a good driveline shop in your area like this one:
https://www.drivetraincenter.info
If you are in the Los Angeles area I have used and can recommend RamJet Rear End Repair (for rear differentials) but I do not know of a shop to recommend that specifically works on driveshafts. However in southern California you WILL find several such shops that modify driveshafts.
A genuine Soarer JZZ30 R154 front driveshaft is hard to come by these days and is very expensive. It is cheaper to use one of the two above solutions to achieve the same thing.
A one-piece driveshaft can be a good solution but there is higher chance of additional driveline vibration and NVH. Aluminum or carbon fiber can cut down on that but really a modified factory two-piece is extremely strong already and is designed to absorb and mitigate NVH by Toyota.
Additionally look at options for the transmission tunnel shifter opening depending on which version of the R154 you plan to use. I address that in both of the above threads as well ^^.
Welcome to CL and luck on embarking on this project!
...
Oh, also if you are just going to swap to an R154 but not turbocharge the 2JZ-GE engine then you can use the very affordable OEM 1986-1992 Toyota Supra R154 stock clutch kit. It is more than capable of handling a non-turbo 2JZ-GE's power and torque for a very long time until you decide to go with an NA-T conversion or GTE swap.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 04-16-23 at 11:18 PM.
04-30-23, 08:55 PM
#3
What's up man, welcome to the mission!
Happy to answer any questions needed, Kahn mentioned my current swap thread above.
I'm currently eyeballing a Chase Bays / Wilwood setup for my clutch master. (Looks pretty and isn't that much more than an OEM)
Start looking at the Junkyards and pray that a 5speed goes up at a pick your part. OEM Pedals are a little hard to source for a good price nowadays. I pulled a set in the pouring rain one Saturday and do not regret it, everything else was stripped.
For the driveshaft, I pulled an Auto Sc300 drive shaft from a Junkyard and bought an MK3 Supra Drive Shaft. I am mating the front of the MK3 to the rear of the SC Auto and am planning on shortening it as Kahns suggests. Shortening is usually cheaper at the shops, as you are removing material not adding.
I am going to be posting some photos of the drive shaft and my pedal installs within the next few weeks.
Also, If you can, just get the Tripod r154, even if it costs more money. There is a ton of back end you need to account for if you get something like an MK3.
Happy Hunting
Happy to answer any questions needed, Kahn mentioned my current swap thread above.
I'm currently eyeballing a Chase Bays / Wilwood setup for my clutch master. (Looks pretty and isn't that much more than an OEM)
Start looking at the Junkyards and pray that a 5speed goes up at a pick your part. OEM Pedals are a little hard to source for a good price nowadays. I pulled a set in the pouring rain one Saturday and do not regret it, everything else was stripped.
For the driveshaft, I pulled an Auto Sc300 drive shaft from a Junkyard and bought an MK3 Supra Drive Shaft. I am mating the front of the MK3 to the rear of the SC Auto and am planning on shortening it as Kahns suggests. Shortening is usually cheaper at the shops, as you are removing material not adding.
I am going to be posting some photos of the drive shaft and my pedal installs within the next few weeks.
Also, If you can, just get the Tripod r154, even if it costs more money. There is a ton of back end you need to account for if you get something like an MK3.
Happy Hunting
04-30-23, 10:26 PM
#4
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What's up man, welcome to the mission!
Happy to answer any questions needed, Kahn mentioned my current swap thread above.
I'm currently eyeballing a Chase Bays / Wilwood setup for my clutch master. (Looks pretty and isn't that much more than an OEM)
Start looking at the Junkyards and pray that a 5speed goes up at a pick your part. OEM Pedals are a little hard to source for a good price nowadays. I pulled a set in the pouring rain one Saturday and do not regret it, everything else was stripped.
For the driveshaft, I pulled an Auto Sc300 drive shaft from a Junkyard and bought an MK3 Supra Drive Shaft. I am mating the front of the MK3 to the rear of the SC Auto and am planning on shortening it as Kahns suggests. Shortening is usually cheaper at the shops, as you are removing material not adding.
I am going to be posting some photos of the drive shaft and my pedal installs within the next few weeks.
Also, If you can, just get the Tripod r154, even if it costs more money. There is a ton of back end you need to account for if you get something like an MK3.
Happy Hunting
Happy to answer any questions needed, Kahn mentioned my current swap thread above.
I'm currently eyeballing a Chase Bays / Wilwood setup for my clutch master. (Looks pretty and isn't that much more than an OEM)
Start looking at the Junkyards and pray that a 5speed goes up at a pick your part. OEM Pedals are a little hard to source for a good price nowadays. I pulled a set in the pouring rain one Saturday and do not regret it, everything else was stripped.
For the driveshaft, I pulled an Auto Sc300 drive shaft from a Junkyard and bought an MK3 Supra Drive Shaft. I am mating the front of the MK3 to the rear of the SC Auto and am planning on shortening it as Kahns suggests. Shortening is usually cheaper at the shops, as you are removing material not adding.
I am going to be posting some photos of the drive shaft and my pedal installs within the next few weeks.
Also, If you can, just get the Tripod r154, even if it costs more money. There is a ton of back end you need to account for if you get something like an MK3.
Happy Hunting
i just want to thank both of y’all for replying, adjusting the Driveshaft i have right now would be a good move, will do so when it’s time, i want to know what other things i may need after i get the tripod r154, i know to get clutch slave, clutch fork, master cylinder, clutch lines, gotta drill some holes for the fitment of all the things, any recommendations towards which brands, bolts, is there any specific tools that i need
05-01-23, 10:09 AM
#5
Here is a master list provided by Driftmotion. This will give you a general idea of what is needed. I am currently putting a list together of the things I am purchasing/planning on purchasing that I can share as well. I am building for eventual track purposes, so my needs may vary. I am also trying to build this on a tight budget, so we may vary there as well.
1JZ Flywheel: Lightweight Aluminum or Stock Weight Chromoly)
1JZ ARP Flywheel Bolt Set or Driftmotion 1JZ Flywheel Bolt Set
R154 Pressure Plate Bolt Set
R154 Slave Cylinder
R154 Clutch Fork
Fork Support With Spring (comes with our new R154 transmission when bell housing is included)
R154 Clutch Hub with Washers and Clips
Full Length Clutch Hose
Driftmotion Stage 2 Clutch Kit
Driftmotion Stage 3.5 Clutch Kit
Driftmotion Stage 4 Clutch Kit
Speedo Gear Assembly (these new transmissions don't include it)
Driftmotion VSS Sensor (if you need an electronic speedometer output)
Manual Pedal Set: MK4 Supra, SC300, IS300
1JZ Bell Housing to JZ Block Bolt Set
R154 Transmission Mount (For MK3, Cressida)
R154 Swap Mount Kit (For SC300, IS300, GS300, MK4)
Driftmotion Adapter Shifter Housing For MK3 Supra/Cressida/240SX/MK4/SC
Driftmotion Short Throw Shifter (for the MK3 Supra/Cressida adapter housings)
Driftmotion Adjustable Throw Shifter (for the MK3 Supra/Cressida adapter housings)
Driftmotion Adjustable Throw Tripod Short Shifter (upgraded shifter to replace stock tripod)
Aluminum 1310 Drive Shaft(500whp)
Steel 1310 Drive Shaft (500whp)
Aluminum 3.5" 1350 Drive Shaft (over 500whp)
I recommended just pouring through all the old swap threads so you can get familiar with whats needed.
1JZ Flywheel: Lightweight Aluminum or Stock Weight Chromoly)
1JZ ARP Flywheel Bolt Set or Driftmotion 1JZ Flywheel Bolt Set
R154 Pressure Plate Bolt Set
R154 Slave Cylinder
R154 Clutch Fork
Fork Support With Spring (comes with our new R154 transmission when bell housing is included)
R154 Clutch Hub with Washers and Clips
Full Length Clutch Hose
Driftmotion Stage 2 Clutch Kit
Driftmotion Stage 3.5 Clutch Kit
Driftmotion Stage 4 Clutch Kit
Speedo Gear Assembly (these new transmissions don't include it)
Driftmotion VSS Sensor (if you need an electronic speedometer output)
Manual Pedal Set: MK4 Supra, SC300, IS300
1JZ Bell Housing to JZ Block Bolt Set
R154 Transmission Mount (For MK3, Cressida)
R154 Swap Mount Kit (For SC300, IS300, GS300, MK4)
Driftmotion Adapter Shifter Housing For MK3 Supra/Cressida/240SX/MK4/SC
Driftmotion Short Throw Shifter (for the MK3 Supra/Cressida adapter housings)
Driftmotion Adjustable Throw Shifter (for the MK3 Supra/Cressida adapter housings)
Driftmotion Adjustable Throw Tripod Short Shifter (upgraded shifter to replace stock tripod)
Aluminum 1310 Drive Shaft(500whp)
Steel 1310 Drive Shaft (500whp)
Aluminum 3.5" 1350 Drive Shaft (over 500whp)
I recommended just pouring through all the old swap threads so you can get familiar with whats needed.
The following 2 users liked this post by JoeYabuki:
Bimmerbill (05-02-23),
bron_karr (05-01-23)
05-01-23, 12:24 PM
#6
^This is a really good list.
I finished my own tripod R154 swap in my 2000 SC300 about 400 miles ago now.
One thing I would recommend is to get familiar with what you are going to need in terms of wiring for your specific year, as some years are different. Cartmill's thread on reverse lights helps a lot. The other thing is to not install the clutch on the flywheel without the transmission. If you do this, there will be absolutely no clearance for the transmission. Instead, put your pressure plate and clutch onto the spline of the transmission, and torque the pressure plate down though the inspection holes.
Depending on where you buy your transmission, you may need to buy some oem inspection covers for the transmission; with part numbers 31123-14020 and 31121-22030.
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but Redline MT90 seems to be the best fluid for the R154. I believe the R154 takes about 3-4 quarts (at least the tripod does), and if it's new, you have to change it again after 500 miles. You're also going to need some high temperature bearing grease and a decent amount of loctite, along with Toyota Dot 3 brake fluid for the master cylinder.
Also, you're going to want a pump for your transmission fluid and a lot of extensions to get to the bellhousing bolts.
Good luck!
I finished my own tripod R154 swap in my 2000 SC300 about 400 miles ago now.
One thing I would recommend is to get familiar with what you are going to need in terms of wiring for your specific year, as some years are different. Cartmill's thread on reverse lights helps a lot. The other thing is to not install the clutch on the flywheel without the transmission. If you do this, there will be absolutely no clearance for the transmission. Instead, put your pressure plate and clutch onto the spline of the transmission, and torque the pressure plate down though the inspection holes.
Depending on where you buy your transmission, you may need to buy some oem inspection covers for the transmission; with part numbers 31123-14020 and 31121-22030.
I don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but Redline MT90 seems to be the best fluid for the R154. I believe the R154 takes about 3-4 quarts (at least the tripod does), and if it's new, you have to change it again after 500 miles. You're also going to need some high temperature bearing grease and a decent amount of loctite, along with Toyota Dot 3 brake fluid for the master cylinder.
Also, you're going to want a pump for your transmission fluid and a lot of extensions to get to the bellhousing bolts.
Good luck!
The following users liked this post:
Bimmerbill (05-02-23)
05-01-23, 05:56 PM
#7
^^ Seconding what xdTau said. Redline MT-90 is the best transmission fluid to run in an R154 or W58. I have been using it for years in my R154 and did the same with my original W58. It helps with longevity and smooth shifting with both transmissions regardless of whether they are the extension housing type or the newer tripod type.
Also remember that the R154 is a classic transmission design that was first sold in vehicles in 1986. Just the same as with many high performance manual transmissions it needs to come up to operating temperature from full cold to have the smoothest shifting characteristics. Usually this happens within the first 10-15min of driving from full cold. Just for frame of reference even the modern day Aisin TL70 6-speed M/T found in the FR-S/GT86/GR86/BRZ also needs to come up to full operating temperature from full cold for optimum smoothness. And I have also heard it is recommended to use Redline MT-90 in those manual transmissions as well. It's very good fluid.
W58's, W55's and V160/161's also like to come up to full temp for optimum smoothness. It only takes a few minutes from full cold.
Not that it's pertinent here but the V160/161 is the only one fo the bunch that doesn't work with Redline MT-90.
Also remember that the R154 is a classic transmission design that was first sold in vehicles in 1986. Just the same as with many high performance manual transmissions it needs to come up to operating temperature from full cold to have the smoothest shifting characteristics. Usually this happens within the first 10-15min of driving from full cold. Just for frame of reference even the modern day Aisin TL70 6-speed M/T found in the FR-S/GT86/GR86/BRZ also needs to come up to full operating temperature from full cold for optimum smoothness. And I have also heard it is recommended to use Redline MT-90 in those manual transmissions as well. It's very good fluid.
W58's, W55's and V160/161's also like to come up to full temp for optimum smoothness. It only takes a few minutes from full cold.
Not that it's pertinent here but the V160/161 is the only one fo the bunch that doesn't work with Redline MT-90.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 05-01-23 at 05:59 PM.
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