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Alright guys, I'm finally turboing my 1995 SC. I'm doing the work at school where I'm studying auto mechanics and half my challenges are being able to drive it home and back in the morning =\. tools lifts and ase certified help is great =P
I got a kit from xs-power got it all on and together. Got 1 o2 hooked up and have my Oxy1 and Oxy2 pins connected with a paper clip.
I'm only looking to boost like 6-8 pounds because of my 20 year old stock auto transmission with 140k on it. When i get a few thousand more and can throw the manual in ill get an r154. Edit- boosting 12 cars too fast to turn down =P
Alright guys, I'm finally turboing my 1995 SC. I'm doing the work at school where I'm studying auto mechanics and half my challenges are being able to drive it home and back in the morning =\. tools lifts and ase certified help is great =P
I got a kit from xs-power got it all on and together. My bottom Intercooler pipe is a little low and the distributor does not allow me to put my MAF in front of my turbo(pic) What screw in o2s are cheapest yet plug in? or do i have to splice the bosch kind like i've seen. i had to cut some holes in the car for the intercooler piping. I'm going to cut some of the pipes and raise it a little. The downpipe needed cut and reweld.
I've got a 4 to 3 inch reducer coming in the mail Friday so with the 4 runner distributor cap I hope i can get it set up and running right. I've got it running NA still because i can't get it to run without the MAF, with the turbo mesh filtered with pipes missing.
I drilled into my oil filter bracket bolt straight through the top of the bolt. Threaded it and that's the oil supply line. I tried Brazing a threaded bung onto my oil pan for the return line but it still leaks after 4 attempts... Think its think enough to just weld? what have you guys done?
I'm only looking to boost like 6-8 pounds because of my 20 year old stock auto transmission with 140k on it. When i get a few thousand more and can throw the manual in ill get an r154.
I've got a boost controller that came with the kit but i havn't wired it up yet.
Do i need to go coil on plug and ignitor?, jdm ecu and map sensor change? seems like i wouln't have clearance issues like this.. but more expensive and work.
Can i just do AEM FIC-8 because its compatible with the karmen MAF sensor my car comes with?
Tips appreciated.
Sorry for lack of pics ill get some edits and more pics in tomorrow its been a long week.
Glad to see another NAT build. Seems like you've got it almost ready to go too. As you've noticed, the XS power kit is by no means bolt on lol, many people have replaced almost everything on that kit down the road, hope it works better for you.
Now, If you're asking for opinions I'd say absolutely yes, use the COP/GTE ECU setup for OEM reliability but it'll mean more down time and more $$. Read the first page of the GTE ECU mod thread and it'll tell ya everything you need to know. If you're only running 5-6 psi it should run on your stock ECU AS-IS but not very well. They seem to be very picky, even with an SAFC but that's a super controversial topic and you'll get different answers depending on who you talk to.
MORE PICTURES and we can all comment and help more.
Yeah i think i'll run low boost then for a few months to save up for everything i need. Thats if i can get the maf in front of turbo with the piece of tubing i bought that comes in tomorrow.
Here's a quick pic of my baby's I'll have some more really detailed stuff tomorrow.
I was stuck fixing my moms car today(it got tboned rear passenger side)
I dont have my boost controller hooked up yet as i couldnt figure out how to cut and soder in the brake and ignition wires. The brake and ignition wires on the car seem really hard to get to at their locations on the brake or the key igniton...
Car hauls @ss.. has thrown 1 check engine code for lean when i was kinda seeing what it could do.. reset it and havnt thrown another code in about 50 miles... I've got a 9 pound spring in my waste gate so i know it won't boost into the danger zone. I got my Apsx Wide Band o2 but can't figure out how to route it into the car like through the engine bay into the interior.. did you guys cut a whole?..
More pics.... I'm dead torn between more money and more work for a jdm ecu map sensor and all the stuff involved or getting and AEM fic-8 and tuning it with just my MAF. 1995 pre obd2 and non vvti.
I might be picking up an is300 manual next week though and at that point id turn the sc back to stock and give it to my mom and throw the turbo kit on the is lol
headers and wastegate with my rewelded dump pipe.
block Bolt in the bottom of the wastegate? sound right? First turbo install idk wtf im doing lol
The cheapest screw in types I've seen are BOSCH Universal O2 sensors single wire, which yes you do have to splice. You might be able to get some generic ones from ebay but I've never tried ebay O2 sensors. Make sure you don't throw away your original O2 sensors! As for they are around 100$ a piece... in case you want to go back to stock you can just splice them again back to stock lol.
I don't want the cheapest ,I want to know if there is anything that will plug into my one wire o2's, pre cat that stock monitor 3 cylinder's each.
So both sensors should be reading the same output to make the ecu happy. My downpipe post turbo manifold has 3 bungs in it. I'm thinking i can just use 2 one for wideband o2 and 1 for both o2 sensors, or use the wide band and 2 screw in o2's that would plug into both my factory connectors. !!!@#@#@#@ MY PREFERRED OPTION
Otherwise
My wideband o2 sensor has a narrow band wire off of it ment to hook up to a stock o2 input/output. I'm thinking i can use the one feed for both my o2's since they should be reading the same but stock they only read 3 cylinders each, compared to now they are post all 6 cylinders in the exhaust manifold post turbo.
Ebay ones would be the cheapest actually sorry, then Bosch would be the reasonably priced/ reliable. I'm N/A but I've used it for my OBX headers and it ran perfect w/ no CEL light for a year and I recently removed it now used an adapter to fit on my oem exhaust manifold. I think you'll be fine just using 2, one for wideband and one for an O2 sensor. So your wideband O2 sensor has a single wire male plug that fits in the o2 sensor female plug correct? I suggest option 1 w/ one O2 sensor and one wideband for now and try it out first before you end up taking one step forward to steps back!
As for where to wire it through:
On the firewall you should see a rubber grommet passengers side on the firewall where the ECU wires run through. You should be able to pull off your passenger carpet and see your way from there. You have to remove a plate and then just use a coat hanger w/ tape to fish it through. Or theres a grommet on the transmission tunnel that'll lead towards the passenger seat. I've never done any of it but I've seen those areas while fiddling with my car. You can also look at CHNK's Thread, post #62 for pics on wiring stuff :
I got all the wires and the 1 boost line throught the rubber grommet on the passenger side under the fender!.
I'm thinking of running the narrow band feed my wideband o2 comes with to both my stock o2 wires.
My instructor was unable to weld a bung to my oil pan for the return line, without cracking it so i'm waiting on a new one he bought me. =D i'll be bringing that to a shop that can tig weld.
Got my mom a Nice 01 is300 this weekend. Auto with 170k for 3500, good carfax lexus service till 120k miles nice and clean.
Waiting on some BSP pipe hose barb things for my boost controller solenoid. and the oil pan... hence not much news
moms new car (little jealous but couldn't find a manual less than 7k)The water on the floor is from the damn snow were already getting..
Got the oil pan in the mail today at school, Instructor called his preferred welding shop in the area and i dropped the new oil pan off at 11:45 am. I got called at 3:30 to pick it up, went by and they didn't even charge me... The Hook Up!
They did a great job Tig welding it looks really nice.
Still waiting on the damn Boost controller solenoid hose fittings..
Got oil pan and lines in today! very slight leak on my return line. I'm using 90degree elbows for them and the hose on the turbo for the return is in a very tight spot.. i've read this could be restrictive but i've also read using the supplied lines with my kit from xs power i'd be fine.
Cars really pretty fast but..... XS power told me they gave me a 9 psi spring for my wastegate. I pushed past my 10 psi gauge... i'm not sure how high its going but i'm guessing at least 12psi....
I retarded my timing to 4 degrees from the stock advance of 10 degrees before the install. it's pulling hard. AFR's are alright alittle on the lean side especially at idle once warm. I'm not driving it because i don't want to risk anything and i've got my moms old beater mirage... by lean i'm talking 17-18 at times.. when warming up after cold start its fine at 14-14.8 and when i'm driving its a good 12-14. I don't have any EMS yet. Since i'm really undecided on what would be best for me.No check engine lights but my o2's arnt plugged in right now
I'm waiting on the fitting's for the boost controller solenoid still... but right now i've got a vacuum/boost line going to the number 3, 1 is blocked off with a bolt and 2 is to air until i get the hose fittings.
Do i possibly have a 12 pound spring? I'm running stock exhaust so i didn't think id be getting all that much flow...
A piece of advice I've read for future references: some people blow their turbo b/c of oil starvation or there's oil overflowing in their turbos due to the oil not flowing well enough. The moral to this story is that you want to have less angles and have the flow of the oil return line pointing downwards due to gravity it'll flow better and have the oil feed fittings with the least degrees possible for maximum flow.
Teflon those leaks in the mean time and see if that holds! any pics of how its set up?
I didn't take any more pics, its all in such a tight area. I was concerened running the oil return line straight down because the headers are right under it and i couldn't figure out a way to keep the line safe from all the heat.
I did order my AEM FIC-8 today and i'll be picture heavy when it comes to installing that.
I did take a picture of my rigging i did to keep the piping safe. Thats a red silicone fitting cut in half and electric tapped to the bottom where i saw some scratches and didn't want the thin aluminum damaged. The belt on the right is an old serpentine belt cut and zipp tiped to prevent rubbing...
I did some hard pulls at operating temp and felt the pipe.. wasn't hot thus the electric tape. I've got some titanium heat wrap ordered too.
Not trying to be a negative Nelly but I've been in this Na-t game over 8 years and all I can say is I foresee a new motor or motor rebuild in your very near future..
Please take some constructive advice here , either do the Ali GTE ECU mode or get a standalone, anything else even at 6 psi can be fatal (saw a friend at only 5psi melt pistons as his 20yr knock sensor didn't pick up knock in time and when it did couldn't pull enough timing )
Even consider the new megasquirt pro 3 as its now pnp to 2jz motors and its extremely close in functionality and safeguards to pro efi but has faster processors and can be had for around 1500 which is far less in cost to rebuild ..i myself will be going that route as my tuner(one of the best in the country) has endorsed it and wants to tune it for me and he's a huge pro efi dealer
Ive been on aem v1 since 2008 and at 600rwhp since 2010 on pump 93 and still on original OEM block that came with this car.
Hello everyone. Forgive me if I'm not in the right thread. I'm not at all good with computers. Anyway, I was wondering if it is possible to use the stock throttle body and its hardware on an aftermarket front facing intake. Also, would I need a custom filter and tube I attached an image so y'all can see what I'm talking about. It is not my picture. It is off eBay of what the product is.
10-28-15, 08:16 PM
Sc300 Na-t build
front facing air intake for a 2jzge