Armed with a bread board and some thinking juice I was going to make a resistor box. After doing a lot of calculations, and seeing how big this box was going to be with 7 circuits, I decided to put it on hold and to continue with the original plan.



Before anything else I needed to hook up the speedo gear to the trans. Not because I needed it for the speedometer, but because I had to plug the damn hole. My trans came with the gear, but no bracket, so I just sliced and diced my own.



Then I FIPd it and shipped it. Of course, now I was able to add some awesome Redline MT90.



Cleaned up and soldered the connections on my wire harness. Nothing too fancy. This harness contains the connections from the P2 connector for power, park signal, and drive.



I just ziptied the solenoids to the trans member. Piece of cake.



3.5in driveshaft from Driftmotion/Driveshaft shop, 58-1/16", package said 18 lbs. Due to the length, Aaron @ Driftmotion recommended the 3.5in or there would be vibration from the 3in shaft. This thing barely fits in the tunnel!





Shifter location feels good, I didn't take into account the MK3 Supra swan neck style shifter, but it still feels good. This is the s3 v2 short shifter that I ordered from Raptor Racing in the neutral position, and my TRD **** from my previous ZZW30.




So I ended up starting the car with no exhaust on because I was so anxious.

Good news,

1) Car starts.
2) No check engine lights upon start up, the real test is when shes on the road.

Bad news,

I can't get it into gear.

I bled the clutch system for hours, manually pumping, and then using a mityvac, and no matter what, I would grind trying to get into reverse which leads me to believe that the stock clutch master isn't pushing enough fluid to the hydraulic throwout bearing to disengage the clutch because of my heavy pressure plate. The stock master is a 5/8 bore, this also gives the soft pedal feel that 1uz 5 speed swapper experiences with the stock Toyota master and hydro throwout bearing.

The guys over on lextreme recommend 3/4 bore masters to stiffen up the pedal. More research on the GM threads show that the F body guys upgrade their stock masters to bigger bores to push more fluid when they upgrade their clutches.

I found through research that the 1987 Land Crushers with the 4.2 straight 6 uses a 3/4 master. I ordered an Aisin one from RockAuto, and it should be here before Thanksgiving, hopefully this solves my disengagement issue.

 

That last cockpit picture is inspirational!

What did you do for the ABS sensor on the r154?

 

Thanks man. I need it for motivation myself haha.

I didn't do anything for it, assuming the ABS sensor and rear speed sensor are the same thing.

My ABS hasn't worked when I first had the car, and I can't use cruise control due to my steering wheel/boss combo. I had no reason to get it wired up and working. It's just another plug to keep the MT90 in lol. Best part is, when bypassing the NSW, the ecu won't throw a code for either the front OD sensor or rear speed sensor. One of the ecu's criteria's is to see NSW off.

Near future plan is to go standard brake booster and delete all that unnecessary electronic crap anyway.

Any updates on your build? There's only a few builds that are entertaining, but aren't updated enough, looking forward to see yours!

 

And here she is.





The bolt pattern looks to be the same minus having two long studs, and it looks like I have to enlargen the firewall hole. Time to buy a bigger step bit. Sucks that I can't work on the car until Friday.

 

Back on the road! 60 miles so far, and it's nice to be back in a manual.

2 issues, CEL is on for two codes. Doesn't affect drivability, so I'll get to them when I feel like it. And I didn't clearance the tunnel enough, the chassis is transferring alot of transmission noise lol. Oh well, racecar!

 

Awesome work. Which codes are you getting?

 

Awesome Work xHyaku.

can't wait to see vids of this in action.

 

Nice. yes action videos

 

Random question, not to derail the tread but do u know or have u seen any one selling a front splitter for our car like said picture I posted.

 

Idk why link didn't work:/

 

 

Wow, that looks like a blast. I think it's great that you took a very original approach to building the car.

 

P0500 Rear Speed Sensor and P1780 Park/Neutral Switch.

Looks like I was wrong. P0500 still comes on with the P/N switch bypassed, despite what the conditions say. At least P0780(?) for the OD Clutch is true to the conditions and is off. I'll probably go with the Marlin Crawler set up.

As for P1780, '99+ detection logic looks for a short in the circuit. FML. '98 logic does not look for a short, it only looks for 2 or more gears activated at the same time ('99+ also does this).

In conclusion, a '98 GS400 shouldn't throw any codes when bypassing P/N switch.

Oh well, standalone is in my future.

Thanks!

Will do once I break in the trans!

Go to http://aprperformance.com/racing-pro...ind-splitters/, read instructions, send them template and money, GTFO of my thread.

Thank you sir!


Update:

A 1UZ paired with a manual is a blast to drive, the engine is so much more responsive.

I only have 300 miles on the trans so far, and it's getting better to shift day by day.

I notice some vibration at freeway speeds, but I believe it's the 1 piece driveshaft.

This car is so loud now in the cabin, almost at the level of my MR-S lol.

I got tired of the trans hitting the tunnel, so I made some 1/4" spacers. The driveline angle looks to be better with the trans dpaced down. It made the interior quieter, but the vibration at freeway speeds is still there. Oh well.



I also noticed the firewall flexing with the Land Cruiser clutch master due to the stiffer pedal. I previously made a 3rd mount that connects the top of the clutch bracket to the dash bar. I made a new bracket to mount the bottom master bolt to the strut tower. It works!





Reweighed the boat with the manual trans. This is half a tank. So I figure add another 65lbs or so. Not as much as I hoped for lol.

 

Ah, sucks about the P/N switch. If you're interested in getting rid of the speed sensor code, a diff mounted trigger wheel may work: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/7...rigger%20Wheel

Maybe I missed it, but which "gear" are you running it in?

 

Go to http://aprperformance.com/racing-pro...ind-splitters/, read instructions, send them template and money, GTFO of my thread.

Really rude man...