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Awesome build thread. THanks for the details. Just bought an ISF and got a long week to wait while it gets shipped to me but will definitely apply the DIY intake mod.
I definitely recommend it...this car is awesome, have fun.
Originally Posted by luke8715
awesome build here man!!!!!car looks freaking sick
I haven't updated this thread in a while. I've since went with Winmax W5 pads all around with 2-piece Girodisc rotors from RR-Racing. Wanted to update the lip/diffuser, and Group A Motoring gave me a great deal. Photo is of a test fit as I haven't mounted the front lip yet. It's a C-west style. Fitment is great as is quality.
In addition, I got the RR-Racing Front shock tower chassis brace. I read a bit about the F sport chassis brace (bolts under the car) and threw that on as well.
The stock brace doesn't hold a candle to the F-sport brace. I had to dremel some of the plastic covers to fit them more flush with the F-sport brace.
I'll be installing the front lower H brace when I get access to a lift. It adjoins the front lca bushing housings.
I've been driving on Mexican highways @ 120-130 with ease and grip, it's incredible. The car is dying for a diff...
Here are my suspension/chassis mods: -RR-Racing Penske Coilovers (18K/16K) -FIGs Front Upper Control Arms -FIGs Rear Lower Control Arms -FIGs Rear Toe Links -Sikky Front Sway Bar -Sikky Rear Sway Bar with Sikky Endlinks/Bushings -RR-Racing Ultimate Steering Response System -RR-Racing Front Strut Tower Brace -Cusco Rear Strut Tower Bar -F-Sport Rear Chassis Brace -Megan Racing 4-Point Front Lower H-Brace
I just got my Fsport brace in the mail, and was thinking of the front lower brace as well. I also decided to go with Penskes, but I’m holding out to see if any vendors throw out some Black Friday sales (hint hint). Do you road course your car?
I just got my Fsport brace in the mail, and was thinking of the front lower brace as well. I also decided to go with Penskes, but I’m holding out to see if any vendors throw out some Black Friday sales (hint hint). Do you road course your car?
Yes, NJMP so far. Definitely recommend the Penskes , camber mods only make it better too
I installed a KEIN transmission mount after ISFPOWER posted about it. Install was straightforward--just needed to jack the transmission brace up when re-installing the new mount. The KEIN mount is miles stiffer than stock (65a durometer rubber). The OEM one is compressible by hand. Initial impression: you can hear the gears in the transmission whirring (only NVH I noticed so far). Throttle response is loads better.
Subjectively, the car feels more peppy. At WOT, shifts feel seamless, like the car has a CVT.
I also replaced my chewed out sway bar bushings (front-28mm SuperPro and rear--19mm SuperPro) and installed FIGS f&r endlinks.
how is the silkky sway bars? worth the upgrade for front and rear?
I've had them way before the Penskes upgrade and the difference they made was pronounced (on stock suspension and with KWs).
I just put each of them on full stiff with the penskes, ad08r tires, chassis bracing, etc, and it still made a difference for high speed banked turns and cornering in that turn-in has become slightly more responsive. I haven't tracked the car yet to see how the stiffest settings will affect oversteer/understeer dynamics.
My horns have always sounded very poorly due to inadequate grounding of the mounting tabs (that's how Toyota grounds their horns). The air scoops and oil coolers didn't give any room to mount the horns properly. So I installed Hella Supertones. I used the relay provided in the kit and wired to the battery with a 15amp inline fuse. The horns are fairly loud. The sound projects forward quite far.
I also threw on a Poor man mods brake master cylinder brace. Just had to rotate the fuse box 90 degrees and drill a new hole for a bolt. I looked at before and after master cylinder deflection and there is essentially zero movement of the mechanism with the brace right now. Previously, the mechanism would move some bit. I haven't driven the car so I cannot report on any changes, if any.
My knees would always slide into the door or transmission tunnel with the stock leather seat, so I installed a Status Ring GTX. I find it incredibly comfy and accommodating. 32" waist, 5'10", Status side mounts set on the lowest setting. I have no airbag or SRS codes. You have to transfer the harness from the stock seat which includes the magnetic seat position sensor and plug it into the car's harness (one plug, 4 prongs in the plug). I placed a 2.2 ohm resistor in the airbag harness plug to complete the airbag circuit to prevent that code as well (remember to do all of this with the battery unplugged as a safety precaution). Mounted with Status side mounts and Planted seat bracket w/Planted hardware. I actually had to drill 4 new holes in the Planted floor mount to place the seat closer to the steering wheel. I had Sparco sliders, but decided against installing them.
The seat looks and feels great. I think it is a daily-friendly seat and aggressive enough for me for HPDEs/road course.
Last COVID mod for a while: '13/'14 steering ECU (-53042 is installed in the photo). Calibration is necessary otherwise PS doesn't work (at least for brand new ECUs). Impression: I think there's less numbness in the few degrees turning the steering wheel from center (I drove the car gingerly for 20min to and from the post office, didn't have a chance to push it as it started to rain). The steering has lightened up for sure from a stop. Other than that, seems like a subtle mod thus far. Some cost was offset with selling the original ECU
I recalled I had my RR AOS overfill after 20min sessions at the track so I decided to find a new catch can. My original AOS wouldn't fill to the brim, but my car would puff huge smoke and bog a bit at the track (probably due to a hot car or hot-head driver). Maybe some internal baffling would help condense things down a bit? Not sure, but I purchased a Mishimoto baffled catch can (their biggest size w/the colored rings) and mounted it on the RR box. Everything works great so far...won't be going to the track any time soon but hopefully this works a little better for my needs
And the parts: the can uses 5/8 hosing. The front crankcase breather is 3/4" and PCV is 3/8" (if you use stock PCV hose--which is nice--it becomes 3/4" outlet). So, with stock PCV hose, you need two 5/8 to 3/4" reducers. I tried finding other fittings for the can to avoid reducers, but had a hard time finding m20x1.5 fittings to match the ISF. Didn't want to modify the can either.
it's in a pretty snug spot and very easily serviceable (as fast as the RR AOS if you have the appropriate allen key in your glove box)
08-29-18, 10:50 AM
