Vs stock through are they at least noticeably stiffer? Also I was looking that it was more dependent on tires vs rotors I just want a more responsive/firmer feel to braking & performance in terms of stopping better.. So premium on supra brakes aren't worth it then? Should I do rear brakes also? + when you say rebuild you mean the coilovers? If so I did not know that. Would it be better off to get a rebuildable variant? Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it.

If anyone is really intrested or simply wants to give me more advice feel free to pm for my number. I can't stress enough. I am willing to learn and put time,sweat, and effort into this. Oh and money lol.

For anyone else reading this or going to add more feedback & advice i thank you in advance.

on a vvti bottomend , most think its the rods , well vvti rods are thinner yes m but the material used is actually quite resilient to bending but not as stout as non vvti , the real weak point is the piston and piston ring land design .. the ring lands are almost half the thickness of non vvti and with a piston dish with slightly higher cr design , any real form of detonation or cyl pressures can and will crack a ring land . egt temps in full boost MUST be kept at bay

if you have a budjet for a bottomend rebuild then i personally would recc the following ..

use a afermarket 9:0 cr gte styled piston
use a ge non vvti headgasket
if plans are truly to stay under 600 rwhp , non vvti ge/gte rods with acl bearings , arp main bolts
since using a thinner metal headgasket as cheap insurance against head lift , use the upgraded arp headstuds
i personally agree with you on doing your own bottomend as opposed to buying a swap of unknown origin afterall , vvti is cop , justv add a ffim and the above build and now you have a gte setup

i have cp gte 9:0 pistons with the new upgraded manley rods going into my fresh motor setup with a ge metal hg to achieve a cr of around 9:7 which tome in todays world is ideal especially if your squish band is kept within factory specs

here's what gte pistons and rods look like


heres what the tops of your vvti motor looks like , this is after i decarbonized his pistons with 100k on them and used just a gte headgasket which yields him approx 9:5 ish c/r

Well if I ever wanted to go over my horsepower goal that I stated I would have to use an alternative fuel instead of regular pump gas from what I've read I may be mistaken? I feel like with my goals it's a good compromise in terms of reliability. From my view a well rebuilt r154 and a nicely suited Na-T would both handle my stated horsepower goals nicely. I may want to go over that said amount. Honestly though being 20. The amount of money required to aspire for anything higher would take a much beefier investment. The fastest thing I've ever driven was my cinnabar pearl 2000 sc400 thats gone r.i.p. . I feel I've aimed for what I can obtain and I'm shooting for it. I would love to build a monster sc like some people on the forum. I just have to be realistic in terms of what can be done.

yes their are limits on pump gas due to running out of octane vs airflow of turbo but 600's on pump gas on sub 10:0 cr setups is becoming the norm .. im at 600 on 93 oct on stock bottom end , it comes down to having FULL control of timing and a real competent tuner ..

trufantics car aka the red devil which i am doing now is using cp 10:0 cr fully forged pistons with upgraded wrist pins and high tensile strength high heat resistance special rings to achieve solid 600 on pump and mid 700's on ethanol blend

Also what about things like fuel rail and what kind of standalone should I get?

Head studs- http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/203-42...FUQ6QgodUAkAjg

Head gasket - http://www.jegs.com/i/Cometic+Gasket...FWFBQgodg1EAUQ

Acl bearings- http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/acl-r...zgte-3-0l.html

Pistons - http://www.suprastore.com/2jfopibycp.html

If I'm missing anything for the swap let me know also feel free I suggest miscellaneous things I may need for the rebuild thank you. I'd like to hear some opinions on parts listed.

Then theirs the guy on a diffent forum selling pistons and rods for 645 shipped.

http://my.is/forums/f181/2jzgte-oem-...95/index2.html

What about things like bolt torque specs ect ? Where could I find that stuff ?

Curious also should I look into getting engine blueprinted or balanced at all? What's the point behind it?

as far as headgasket , stay oem GE headgasket , not gte if you are using gte styled pistons which is the recommended approach , dont buy any bearings as yet , your machine shop will have to advise if standard sized is correct for your build

So you mean still get a non VVTI head gasket?

yep


if you want to achieve a mid 9's c/r which in todays time is ideal for off boost repsonse and overall turbo response , then the correct way to lower cr is by piston dish .. you want to retain nearly perfect squish and quench within combustion chamber , using gte hg with gte pistons on a na head will give you under 8:5 cr which truly sucks and actually becomes more detonation prone ..using a non vvti ge metal oem headgasket with even stock gte pistons will give you around 9:2 cr and if you get some 9:0 cr gte pistons , even better as that well get you around 9:6 ish cr .. remember , it all comes down to full control of timing and a solid tuner and ecu .. my tuner alpha just did mid 600's on a supra on 93 oct on 10:0 cr setup at well under 19psi ..

im at around 9:4 cr and did my 600 rwhp as well at 19 psi ..