Well Stances are 14/10, BC's are 14/10,and Megan's are 10/8 from what I can find.
You don't really need super stiff unless you are going really low.
What are you on now?
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
You don't really need super stiff unless you are going really low.
What are you on now?
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
Lead Lap
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmf2004
thanks for the update. so how do these springs rates differ from Tein and Megan's for example. I'm full hardness and the car still bounces quite a bit. I'm guessing I need something with a stiffer spring rate like the XYZ or something in between a Megan and XYZ
Quote:
You don't really need super stiff unless you are going really low.
What are you on now?
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
tmf - spring rates determine how stiff it is and all companies have a standard so if you get 30k in bc or tein or who ever it will be the same. its like buying a 20 inch wheel from hre and vossen .. 2 completely diff companies but a 20" is a 20"Originally Posted by SERIALN9NE
Well Stances are 14/10, BC's are 14/10,and Megan's are 10/8 from what I can find. You don't really need super stiff unless you are going really low.
What are you on now?
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
serial- bc standard is 10k/8k..i see a lot of people in new zealand use xyz and seem to like it. but not sure if they make d2. from my understanding d2 ksport meagan and bc are all made buy bc in taiwan
Quote:
Correct on the springs. All things equal a 30k spring is a 30k spring. How they achieve that 30k and the response differs between manufacturers examples would be Swift and Hyperco etc. Lighter weight/diff materials/quicker response are a few advantages of different springs. Originally Posted by sinistervr
tmf - spring rates determine how stiff it is and all companies have a standard so if you get 30k in bc or tein or who ever it will be the same. its like buying a 20 inch wheel from hre and vossen .. 2 completely diff companies but a 20" is a 20" serial- bc standard is 10k/8k..i see a lot of people in new zealand use xyz and seem to like it. but not sure if they make d2. from my understanding d2 ksport meagan and bc are all made buy bc in taiwan
The KEY however is the damping. This is what makes a car smooth, predictable, and nice to drive instead of bouncy, tiring, and uncontrolled. Ppl think high spring rates equal ****ty ride, which is untrue. A properly valved damper on a high rate spring will ride and better than an improperly valved softer sprung setup.
I know that XYZ is D2 because I sent the money to the same address as d2 headquarters. All of those dampers look the same however those are the only two I know for sure come out of that factory.
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
appreciate the replies but if my Tein are less than 30k than XYZ will be stiffer correct ? I heard others complain about the Tein being bouncy on max setting
Intermediate
That doesn't look right on the front. I run Yellowspeeds which are basically the same and I can put my GS almost on the floor at the front too.. wonder why yours is so high
Lead Lap
Quote:
His car has no motor tranny seats dash ect ect.Originally Posted by mlracing
That doesn't look right on the front. I run Yellowspeeds which are basically the same and I can put my GS almost on the floor at the front too.. wonder why yours is so high
Quote:



Keep up the good work!!!
Thanks!! Sometime I get caught up in mega posts, but for those who like to read I feel they're informative and sometimes educational. Originally Posted by solowlex
oh how much i enjoyed reading this build!!! im flabbergasted


Keep up the good work!!!
There is a LOT more to come, so stay tuned!
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
So a quick update. I went ahead and cut the fenders.
Here you can see that if I had wheels that were 4 inches further out the metal would have to go.

My line.

The cut.


The shape is not really important right now. It may need to change based on how the inner is shaped and how much wheel clearance I need. It is possible to have to cut into the door sill area if your car is EXTREMELY low or you run very large diameter tires.

Here you can see how close the tire is to the door sill at this ride height (dumped) This is a 235/35-19 on a 19x11+9 for reference.
Here I am fitting the overfenders precisely to the car. Usually with FG parts there is some form of fitting involved, surprisingly even the cars themselves differ slightly. Because I'm molding these on I'm am being very careful to make sure they are perfect.


And now I've spaced it out to a -26!
This is at factory camber spec for the height. I'm assuming approx -5 with additional camber you can definitely run even more aggressive sizes! (Like my upcoming 11.5-40!!)

Artsy.

So basically next up is to close up and fully seal the inners. Then prep the surfaces and everything for bonding and filling. Looks like I'm planning to wrap the car as I can do it myself and it makes sense on this car. It will be a GLOSSY metallic color though. I'm not a fan of matte black anything like that.
Till next time!
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
Here you can see that if I had wheels that were 4 inches further out the metal would have to go.

My line.

The cut.


The shape is not really important right now. It may need to change based on how the inner is shaped and how much wheel clearance I need. It is possible to have to cut into the door sill area if your car is EXTREMELY low or you run very large diameter tires.

Here you can see how close the tire is to the door sill at this ride height (dumped) This is a 235/35-19 on a 19x11+9 for reference.
Here I am fitting the overfenders precisely to the car. Usually with FG parts there is some form of fitting involved, surprisingly even the cars themselves differ slightly. Because I'm molding these on I'm am being very careful to make sure they are perfect.


And now I've spaced it out to a -26!
This is at factory camber spec for the height. I'm assuming approx -5 with additional camber you can definitely run even more aggressive sizes! (Like my upcoming 11.5-40!!)

Artsy.

So basically next up is to close up and fully seal the inners. Then prep the surfaces and everything for bonding and filling. Looks like I'm planning to wrap the car as I can do it myself and it makes sense on this car. It will be a GLOSSY metallic color though. I'm not a fan of matte black anything like that.
Till next time!
G.
SERIALNINE sedankings.
Lexus Fanatic
Quote:
shame most if not all of its true.....Originally Posted by 240benzo
SHAME that guy was trying to flame you guys in that thread (already been closed)
that does look good although i still say metal over fiberglass
Quote:
SHAME that guy was trying to flame you guys in that thread (already been closed)
Ya nice touch hey? Nobody's perfect, its just when you're in the public eye, someone is always there point out the negatives and generate hate. Originally Posted by 240benzo
this is BO$$SHAME that guy was trying to flame you guys in that thread (already been closed)
Quote:

that does look good although i still say metal over fiberglass
Which parts exactly were true? And you know this how? Originally Posted by sakataj
shame most if not all of its true.....that does look good although i still say metal over fiberglass
Im with you on the metal over glass thing but there is NO way you could produce this in metal for the price, without making thousands, let alone actually put it on a car easily and repeatably. The fronts for sure would be awesome in metal, but again. . cost.
Its not for everyone, but for those that want this look and function, this is the best option.
G.
Lexus Fanatic
Quote:
Im with you on the metal over glass thing but there is NO way you could produce this in metal for the price, without making thousands, let alone actually put it on a car easily and repeatably. The fronts for sure would be awesome in metal, but again. . cost.
Its not for everyone, but for those that want this look and function, this is the best option.
G.
because Gerard, i know several close friends who dealt with you and the company when they were building their Cressidas. im not here to argue for or against what you did or didnt do though....lets instead focus on this sweet little drift car you are building. Originally Posted by SERIALN9NE
Which parts exactly were true? And you know this how? Im with you on the metal over glass thing but there is NO way you could produce this in metal for the price, without making thousands, let alone actually put it on a car easily and repeatably. The fronts for sure would be awesome in metal, but again. . cost.
Its not for everyone, but for those that want this look and function, this is the best option.
G.

true for the price FRP is a better bang but since my car is a street car, a variation in metal would be a better option. i guess someone could always buy your FRP kit and then have a bodyshop make it in metal which would be much cheaper i assume for all involved. i always love widebodies so im def down








