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So I've had the diff for a couple days and first impressions are great. If you are in parking lots if you hit the gas in any corner it will chirp the tires because the rear end will lock up. But if you use your momentum and clutch or neutral through the corner or feather the gas slightly it isn't bad at all. What is good is its quiet.. VERY quiet.. No break in necessary which is amazing. 1 hour removal 1 hour install and traction is so much better in the rain and dry. Easily slides in dry and wet and the rear end is so much more controlled than the open diff when losing traction. Its' a necessary peice of the puzzle to feel the connection to the car and road for sure. I give the Super Q high praise and kaaz appears to have a high quality diff with customer service in california. Love the 3.77 gearing too! So perfect for the R154. Just need my larger rear tires and things will be gravy. Taking it on a trip next week I will update with pictures!
So somehow i was locked out of my account for the past six months. Clublexus got added to the block list on all my emails, so I never got any emails for new accounts or password resets. Finally figured it out.. No clue how that happened but...
Some progress has happened
I will also be working on fixing the picture links throughout the rest of my thread. Realized photo bucket took a ****.
Okay so now that the rest of my thread has fixed photos, lets go back into why my motor is out again other than that turbo you see.
So not much has been happening until about a month ago when i blew a hole in the rear coolant hose at the head. I decided because of how hard it is to change this because i put a worm clamp on the back of the head, I would yank the motor and start my single turbo process.
Had to work in between rain and days off by myself. Wasn't so bad but I did have a few anxiety attacks laying under the car with no one around.
I had a little help once everything was disconnected. I couldn't do the hood or the actual motor pull alone for safety reasons.
Mocked up my turbo in my room figuring out what else I will need.
Borg Warner S362SX-E 62/68 with .88A/R T4 open with 3" machined v-band
SPA cast manifold with v-band
precision 46mm waste gate
synapse diverter valve recirculated for vvt-i.
Arizona Performance CNC drain flange for turbo and block
driftmotion stage 3.5 clutch
driftmotion v-band downpipe
Found the writeup on how to remove the twin turbos and someone was nice enough to share a link with saved photos. I used that to help me get started on what I should be taking off, but it is rather straight forward. I cut pretty much all my hoses except the really large ones, those slid off. All the vacuum lines, oil lines and coolant lines had to be cut. People were quoting 3ish hours to get them off, with the use of pb blaster. I didnt have any and just decided to give it a go. Things went pretty smoothly with a 14mm box end wrench and a hammer. On the ***** bolts underneath I used a 14mm wrench and an 18mm wrench boxed on the end of it to get them to pop loose.
I was going to tap my valve cover but after seeing how much material would have to be drilled and tapped out, I really don't think I would be able to 100% guarantee no shavings stuck in my valve cover. So, I am having this fitting welded on. I think i will be happier with this in the long run as it will be stronger and less connection points.
I've been acquiring all the hardware I will need, which keeps adding up as I find more things I want to do or replace. Deciding to go -10 an with russell pro flex II hose for my catch can, and having a 1.25" return hose onto a barb for my diverter valve (BOV). Going to wait on having these fittings welded on my intake until the motor is in the car, I might need to have the intake modified at the same time with another bend or rotation.
Dropped my flywheel off at the machine shop. Will be done in the morning, those ARP's were hard to get off without a breaker bar.
Last of all, heres my water neck that I got back. One little imperfection but will absolutely do what I want for now until I go full CNC water neck.
Also did short studs that I found here on the forum. Not sure if I should've stayed with long ones up top for better grip. Doesnt seem like the nuts reach the locking section at the end.
I also got in my turbo studs, but I must've been out of it when I ordered because they are too long and A2 stainless steel. Going to replace those with atleast class 8.8 metric if I cant find better.
Using vibrant silicone heater hoses and DEI fire hose to protect my coolant and oil lines. Russell fittings in all black. Also picked up new vacuum hose so it can all get redone.
3/4 of a splice of bread popped this right out with a 3/8" extension.
New pilot bearing installed along with upper water neck and new o-rings and gasket. Picked up my valve cover from the welder and it turned out great. Even though I still have the -10x1/2" NPT fitting, it was so much better of a decision to have it welded instead of tapping.
Also I had to drill out my turbo drain ARZ performance fitting because the bolt holes were too small for the borg warner bolts, got that squared away and bought new turbo studs while I was at it. New lower water neck comes tomorrow and I have a new thermostat and seal ready to go in. Glad I removed my valve cover because the gasket was solid as a rock.
Not many good pictures but I will update on whats been going on.
Had to borrow some torque wrenches from my bro for the flywheel and pressure plate, when I removed the valve cover for the AN fitting i discovered the stock gaskets were shot so I replaced both sides and all the washers. I managed to drop a nut behind my timing cover but was able to fish it out with a small magnetic tool. Whoops! Also, when removing my pcv valve, the grommet was so hard it popped into the valve cover and I had to break it apart to get out. Quite frustrating. Thankfully I had one laying around along with a new pcv valve to go in.
clutch finished up.
Going to have my catch can near my intake filter and have this fitting facing forward.
After looking at water neck rotators I decided to go with a CX racing cast lower neck. The casting and machining look top notch.
PCV hose came in along with my new sparkplugs. I've been running Denso PK20TR11's since I got the motor, 6 bucks a piece at the dealership is a great buy. Going to stay with this until I turn up the boost. Got spark plugs in and then I cut off the extra twin turbo sensor plugs on the front and back of the motor and heat shrinked the ends, going to tape em up tomorrow so nothing can ever have a chance of arcing out.
Went over to fastenal and they happened to have the 1/8" NPT - 1/4" barb boost port fitting I needed for the compressor housing of my turbo. Only cost me .80 cents and they also had the 1/4" drill bit I needed for 4 doll hairs. I felt like I scored so I went to my favorite thai restraunt for some drunken noodle. Toyota also had the speedometer plate I needed to hold my new marlin crawler adapted setup in. Thankful it fits!!! Had to fix a broken wire on my reverse lights that got broke when yanking the motor out.
I forgot to get the heico anti vibration washers I want from fastenal but I will have to go back tomorrow. All I have left to do is put the turbo on and set up the oil drain and feed lines. Then the motor is ready to go back in. Then all I have left to do is intake, exhaust, wastegate dump tube, and connecting my hot side turbo piping. Waiting on my driftmotion 3" exhaust v-band, deburring tool and also ordered a 3" aluminum 45 for my intake to be modified if need be.
Went back to fastenal and got some anti-vibration washers. They made me buy a whole pack of em. oh well. My deburring tool also came in and I was able drill out my compressor cover for the boost port. Went slow and it worked perfect.
Started my drain lines and putting my turbo on. I feel like with the angle of the lower port I did the best draining setup I could do. Although things are really tight down here. A little touching.
Feed line comes a little close too.. Can i route it to the rear port??
Bugged my brother for his air compressor to clean out my turbo and get my DEI fire hose onto the heater line. I could push it about 6" on before it would get stuck, but an air hose with the right attachment and it went right on in about 30 seconds..
I went home and installed my cover. This is the direction it has to point because it hits my oil drain flange when trying to clock it lower, and until I get it in the car I don't feel I have the room to have it any other way for now. I also tried putting the oil inlet hose on the rear fitting, but because of the length of the line it would pretty much be resting all over my down pipe. Not sure yet if I want it resting on my lower radiator hose or my exhaust. I also got the heater hose on and managed to take a chunk out of my finger trying to get it on with the clamp.
Tightened up some plumbing and decided how I was going to route things. Ordered more 5/8" silicone hose for my other heater hose and more fire sleeve for it. Also got some dei titanium fire wrap for my down pipe to help contain heat.
Just ordered a new lower radiator hose from gates. Pretty damn close to putting it back in the car.
So after two days and a lot of struggling I got the motor into the cross member. I can now tell everyone that with a SX-E 6268 with a .88 hotside and this cast manifold.. You have NO clearance. I pounded my shock tower a little bit but as you can see its still pretty bad. Also, my ABS lines run directly next to the turbo. Another thing I cant really do anything about right now. In the future I will have to go with a different tubular manifold, but I think for now I will be fine.
Not happy with the brake lines there or the turbine touching so the motor is coming back out. Just ordered a .68 a/r 3" v-band t4 housing from AGP turbo, which he says will give me an inch of clearance.
Also going to replace some power steering lines when its out and either relocate or what i am becoming more likely to do is delete the ABS pump and redo the brake lines.
ordered some summit Fragola fittings for my brake lines to convert everything to -3 AN so I can run braided hose. Ripped out the ABS pump. Theres only a single rear line going back which makes it easier for me. I only need to have four lines made, but two of them are 5.5'-6'.
The ****ty ABS pump in the way of everything.
Single rear brake line port
Pretty glad this is out.
New brake lines are in. Cost was $200 for everything including the adapters to -3 AN.
New turbine housing also arrived. .68 is super small.
New rear housing is way smaller, should have no problems with clearance now. Been snowing here and super cold so I haven't put the motor back in yet. Fixed some wiring with my new soldering iron, and went to test fit my 3" v-band clamp and realized it doesnt fit on the new housing because of stud interference. Had to order a new shorter stud and nut from online. Good thing I bought a full pack of these washers cause I've almost used 10...
Shorter stud, M10x1.50x37mm with copper exhaust nut. Clears my v-band now. Hopefully I will have some good weather here soon to get some work done.
Motor went in super easy this time. Probably took me 10 minutes. Plenty of room now.
Went to ETS and got the 45° coupler i needed, upper pipe fits where the turbo is clocked and the hood does shut, although any more and it wouldn't. It latches pretty easily but i feel it touching right before i latch it. Got the wiring harness into the cabin and then spent some time getting the a/c compressor and power steering pump bolted in. Last of all I got the motor mount nuts on and tightened. Not bad, hopefully I will be able to get some more progress soon.
03-09-17, 03:36 PM
